Replies

1. 
   wmheinz | Apr 21, 2015 12:38pm | #1

   Complete system...

   Waterproof the wall, install dimpled drainage mat to insure water against wall is carried away - needs to go down and over footing drains, back fill with gravel...can go up in 'lifts' - 8" wide or so of gravel, then dirt beside it, then more gravel and dirt so you get sort of a column of gravel next to the drainage mat.  I would also separate the dirt backfill from the gravel with a filter fabric to keep the mud from filling up the gravel voids.  The goal is to get the water away from the wall as soon as reasonable.

   Gravity is always the best solution...if you must have a pump, get one big enough to handle the load.

1. 
   wmheinz | Apr 21, 2015 12:40pm | #2

   Insulation?

   Also, you could add rigid bead board insulation between the waterproofing and the dimpled membran if you wanted/needed to. 

1. 
   thekidd | Apr 21, 2015 03:20pm | #4

   I've got R12 in the walls on the inside.  I've always been leary of adding too much insulation in the basement since I wanted to keep some of the dirt thawed so I have a path to the weeper, but with the gravel I shouldn't have to worry about this.  How much insulation do you recommend?

1. 
   deadnuts | Apr 21, 2015 08:15pm | #5

   You should only be concerned about keepiong your home's generated energy contained; not how best to release it. The best rule of thumb for insulation is use the most you can afford. Same goes for your home's window glazing U-factor.

   Attempting to keep perimeter grade thawed by your home's radiant heat energy is a rather absurd concept. Not only is it impractical, but remember: If grade needs to be thawed in order to drain, then chances are you are not experiencing the kind of weather that would require drainage in the first place.

2. 
   wmheinz | Apr 21, 2015 09:39pm | #6

   Judging from your response...

   I am guessing your in a northern climate..  I would not worry one bit about heating the earth around....quite the opposite - the more heat you can keep inside the house the better.  The great plus about placing the insulation on the outside is how easy it is to install.  Basically, the backfill holds it in place.  Only real problem is critters getting to it.  Depending on where you are located...as much insulation as you can reasonably afford.  Beyond 3-4", I think it's kind of a diminishing return. 

2. 
   thekidd | Apr 21, 2015 03:16pm | #3

   Ok, so you are suggesting I not fill the entire excavated area with gravel.  Only about 8 inches wide.  Hadn't thought about that.  That method is more work, but a whole lot less gravel.  I guess with this method I would have to use some sort of board as a barrier.  Perhaps a piece of ply 2' and fill either side and then lift it up should work.

   Thanks for the sugestion.

2. 
   MYBuilder | Apr 24, 2015 04:38pm | #7

   Have you ever noticed the way water goes wherever it wants? It wants to follow the easiest path that gravity will take it. It will go through clay, concrete, gravel, wood, etc. You don't need a lot of gravel. The blueskin, insulation(we use 3"Dow), then a drain mat is enough. We gravel and cloth over our drain line to keep as much dirt as possible out of it, not to allow water to it faster. Gravel will fill up with the dirt that follows the water. Why waste money on gravel. I would rather the water not be there anyway. The drain(to daylight is best) keeps the water pressure from causing leaks at the slab/wall Junction. We do connect the outside perimeter to the inside perimeter and the sump pit which holds the pump. The inside tile and the pump are standard even if the outside runs to daylight. Water seeks it's own level, so it always drains. Gutters in a separate tile and positive drainage are your first line of defense. Water from rain will run off rather than through the ground. Grass around the house is better too, because it uses water and lets the excess flow away. Mulch or decorative stone keep water from flowing. Remember the Grand Canyon

1. 
   deadnuts | Apr 24, 2015 09:43pm | #9

   Gravity not the only factor

   MYBuilder wrote:

   Have you ever noticed the way water goes wherever it wants? It wants to follow the easiest path that gravity will take it.

   Water goes where physics allow it to go. That means it's path is not only determined by gravity. Capillary action, and air pressure are ways that can allow it to move against gravity. Two common examples ares:

   1. water moving from the ground to the top of tree canopys (capillary action).

   2. water moving up a car's windshield (air/wind pressure).

3. 
   DanH | Apr 24, 2015 04:57pm | #8

   And, if it hasn't been said already, the ground should be sloped away from the house, out to a distance of 10-15 feet at least, and sloped in such a way that there's no standing water within 25-30 feet.