Some foundation questions ??
I am building a 14′ x 14′ kitchen addition on Cape Cod.
Existing house circa 1955 with full basement,CMU foundation. Addition is directly behind garage and will have full basement poured at same level.
Question #1-How should I cut through the existing block to access the new space? Any common blunders to look out for? It would be helpful to do this right after excavating to make pouring the footings possible without hiring a pump truck.
Question #2-The existing foundation is uninsulated, any reason why I would not insulate the newly poured section before backfilling? What is the best waterproofing/insulating combo for this task?
Thanks in advance for your insight.
Chris
Replies
Greetings c,
This post, in response to your question, will bump the thread through the 'recent discussion' listing again.
Perhaps it will catch someones attention that can help you with advice.
Cheers
Well cm, I see you are a first time poster here.
You have thoughtfully included details in your questions.
What commonly happens here when a post is made is that it often times will slide unnoticed past the majority of viewers depending on the rapidity of other posts being made.
Many viewers will read the 'recent discussion' column or those made during that day.
Running this thru again will increase the chance of it being seen by someone with the working knowledge to assist you.
Cheers
bump
Question #1-How should I cut through the existing block to access the new space?
Best bet is to get the mason for the new work to do that while he's already there. I can't imagine not wanting some way to get into the new space. Depending on the heights involved, the new opening might need a sill or lintle to carry over the opening. Other than that, the block can be taken out in a sawtooth fashion, with the "take outs" used to give halves to neaten up the opening (which may be nedfull for the lintel design).
It would be helpful to do this right after excavating to make pouring the footings possible without hiring a pump truck.
Hmm, I would not cut a new access to the add-on before excavating, as getting the backfill out of the existing basement might be a mess. I'm not sure how you get concrete to your add-on's footings through the existing basement, so I can't tell you if that would make a pump truck unnecessary.
Question #2-
The add-on should (probably) be built to the best available current building practice. This makes things both simpler and more complicated. Things like possibly not having an existing drain system to tie into. Or having to deal with the transition from the old basement wall system to the new. This is where a good remodeling contactor, with local experience, can be more than worth the money.
Waterproofing a basement is serious stuff. It's right up there on my should-not-be-DIY with the brakes on the car.
Many of your questions can be answered better by somebody local. I can't say I've ever worked on any Cape houses here in Texas <g>.
The first rule of waterproofing, no matter how it is done, is to fiurst lay in a darn good perimeter drain system at the footers to lead water aaway to daylight. Without that, almost ANY waterproofing is bound to fail, no matter who does it or how well it is done. if you are in West texas, I can see how you might skip past waterproofing details though.;)
Welcome to the Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime. where ... Excellence is its own reward!
Three cheers to rez for the triple swing. You finally got to walk for a single on base. This reply can get you to second base.
First thing to do is to be absolutely sure whether this sectiopn of wall you are removing is not load bearing. The way I have this pictured is that there is a garaage floor above this basement space you are entering from the addition basement. That means there is some seriuous engineering up there to carry the load of that floor and one or two vehicles, right? I'm betting some of that load is on this wall slated for demo, and parking cars in the basement is not a desireable ting. Could get your name in the newpapers, tho i'm not sure which sectiopn it would be included in...
the advice to have the mason do it is right, but somehow I suspect maybe this whole thing is designed and to be built by you? Tell us more about the background and what your skil level is to know best how to advise you on details...
Welcome to the
Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime.
where ...
Excellence is its own reward!
way I have this pictured is that there is a garaage floor above this basement space you are entering from the addition basement
Wow, I did not picture it that way at all, that would be very different, especially if the present garage is actually slab-on-grade.
Way I saw it, the bump-out is adjacent to the garage, and the 14 x14 footprint laps over garage & house to make a new kitchen space--or that the house to garage is an "L" with the new work i nthe crook of the "L." Otherwise, there'd be no new basement--leastways, that was what I was thinking.Occupational hazard of my occupation not being around (sorry Bubba)
That might make more sense if it a hillside lot. Not clear in his report either way to me.
Welcome to the Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime. where ... Excellence is its own reward!
Thanks for replying to my post.
You've got it on the layout. Garage(attached) and basement of addition all at same level (dining rm and kitchen above) making L in back of presently straight house. I've subbed out excavation and foundation and will take it from there. Have priced out concrete cutting-a bit unclear about lintels-when do I need one vs a normal header for a door sized opening?? Kitchen above proposed door. No joints in rim or sill near proposed door.My idea is to cut hole thru existing basement into addition after excavating but before pouring to save pump truck cost-about $700 each time here. Surely need pump truck for pouring the walls, but maybe with some of my buddies (who owe me) and a few wheelbarrows we can move concrete from truck to footings (and maybe slab later).Excavating next week-not sure what we will find for existing perimeter drain... Foundation sub will spray dampproofing for reasonable cost, curious about insulation?? Remembering rest of basement is uninsulated is it worth doing for such a small space? Unlikely to ever be a living space-just storage off garage.Thanks for your sage counsel.
Chris
for your sage counsel
LoL! And, here, I use cilantro a lot more than sage . . .
Well, ground contact has some PAHS aspects that are good for basements. In my book, waterproffing is really much more important. It's possible to insulate the interior of the basement after the fact. And to insulate in a uniform fashion including the existing basement. WP, on the other hand, very difficult to do "right" later. That's my bias.
Lintel design is not in my repertoir, don't even play an engineer over the internet <g>. Might be as simple as some steel angles set in from both sides of the existing block. Might be as complicated as setting a pre-cast lintle into a prepared opening. All sorts of local considerations like fountation work, inspections, permits, lateral forces, etc.Occupational hazard of my occupation not being around (sorry Bubba)
I suggest you wander over to HGTVPro.com and look at some of the videos - especially the foundation ones. Some very useful suggestions in them. And, I agree, it appears waterproofing is not a DIY project - call in a pro if you want it done right.
It's kind of odd - a magazine my wife reads (House and Garden), full of (to me) inane articles on flower decorations and fabric matches, entertaining and recipe tips table settings, etc. also has a more professional side that is comprehensive and seemingly quite knowledgeable.