Replies

1. 
   Guest_ | Apr 21, 2000 05:56pm | #2

   *
   I hope you get an answer. I have pretty much the same question, only this bay window juts out 5', and the bay is at the very end of the house, flush with the end wall. I figure I can tie into the existing hip roof of the house, and have a gable end at the front of the bay window area.

   I am, however, trying hard to convince the client to go with a squared extension instead of an angled bay. They need the extra room, and the bay area actually steals some of the square footage. A squared extension gives more square footage, and sure makes life easier on me.

   Just a thought...

   James DuHamel

1. 
   Guest_ | Apr 18, 2000 08:32am | #1

   *both FHB & JLC carried nice picture articles on framing bay roofs about the same month.. almost like the industrial spies hit pay dirt...JLC was May'98.. don't know what issue of FHB, but it was about the same time...anyways it helped me think thru framing this one with exposed rafter tails...

1. 
   Guest_ | Apr 22, 2000 12:29am | #3

   *Mike,That is one well executed bay window! I have read many articles on framing the bays, and I still find the Framer's bible the most usefull tool. This is beginning to sound like a broken record on this board since Ken Drake introduced me to it last year.Any of you guys that fear these things need to get this book. I always look forward to a framing challenge, and bay popouts of any size are fun for me now. James, please take the time to learn some of these techniques instead of letting little problems like this influence your design. I'm sure you will find it rewarding. Tom

1. 
   Guest_ | Apr 22, 2000 01:33am | #4

   *Mike, Thats a first class soffet detail on the bay roof,I also like the frieze on the gable of the main house.Vince

1. 
   Guest_ | Apr 22, 2000 01:54am | #5

   *John,

   That's just what everyone who wants to frame roofs should do is go out and buy the bible. Than you will be among the "elite". . .

   I wonder if you can give just a little bit more information. Are you speaking about a bay window like the one that Mike posted or are you speaking about a bay windowed section like the one in the graphic?

   View Image © 1999-2000"The first step towards vice is to shroud innocent actions in mystery, and whoever likes to conceal something sooner or later has reason to conceal it." Aristotle

2. 
   Guest_ | Apr 22, 2000 02:23am | #6

   *A 45 degree bay window roof is a portion of an octagon roof, but all you really need to know, is that the rafter that is against the wall (assuming your roof is projecting out of the plane the window is in and you're not building out from another roof)is the rafter for which 17 is the constant on your framing square, not the rafter you would think of as the hip. Knowing this, you can next establish where the top end of your common rafters hit the wall, and intersect the rafter up against the wall, (cut with the 6/17 angle,) and now you can go from there and make your "hip". I can't remember for sure, but I believe 13 is the constant for this cut, not 12, not 17. G

3. 
   Guest_ | Apr 22, 2000 01:38pm | #7

   *Steve G,

   There was a discussion awhile back involving a porch roof. One of the possibility was to frame the corners as shown. I had done this drawing to show the scale of what the poster had proposed. I believe the bay section of this discussion is some what different than the octagon section that you speak of. If we could get some more information it would be easier to determine just what is needed.

   View Image © 1999-2000"The first step towards vice is to shroud innocent actions in mystery, and whoever likes to conceal something sooner or later has reason to conceal it." Aristotle

4. 
   Guest_ | Apr 22, 2000 08:48pm | #8

   *John,

   This graphic might help to illustrate one possible way of framing this particular roof if it were indeed a bay windowed section. Both the main roof and the bay roof are at an 8-12 pitch. This would keep the overhangs the same if there were any. From the scale drawing you might want to increase the bay section to 10 of even 12. I think that this would look better proportionally but, would alter the overhangs on the bay section as opposed to the main roof.Also, bear in mind that the graphic is drawing using only the "centerline" of each rafter. Good luck.

   View Image © 1999-2000"The first step towards vice is to shroud innocent actions in mystery, and whoever likes to conceal something sooner or later has reason to conceal it." Aristotle

5. 
   Guest_ | Apr 23, 2000 12:02am | #9

   *The bay window roof I describe, is the same roof Mike Smith has in his picture. The same framing angles would apply to Joe Fusco's second post as well, with the 17 rafter square constant on the two rafters that run parallel to the house.

6. 
   Guest_ | Apr 23, 2000 12:59am | #10

   *Steve,

   The only rafters that you would cut using the square set to 17 on my graphic would be the valley rafters. They run at a 45° angle to the rafter plate. Also I'm not sure what you are referring to when you say "the two rafters that run parallel to the house?"

   View Image © 1999-2000"The first step towards vice is to shroud innocent actions in mystery, and whoever likes to conceal something sooner or later has reason to conceal it." Aristotle

7. 
   Guest_ | Apr 23, 2000 07:52am | #11

   *The roof design I was working on looks almost exactly like the roof of the dormer on page 115 of the April/May 2000 issue of FH. On the top of the page, upper right hand corner, there is a picture of a home with a double dormer. The dormer on the far left is what I needed. The difference in mine and theirs is the roof attachment. Their roof is a gable, and the dormer is a few feet from the very end of the house. My roof design is a hip roof, and the edge of the bay roof must follow the hip at the very end of the house. Just imagine the picture in the mag as a hip roof instead of a gable, and the dormer roof scooted over to the very edge instead of a few feet away. Now you get the picture. The biggest question I really had was tying the shingles in. I looked at the tie in of the shingles to the dormer roof on the house on the bottom of the opposite page (double page layout of all kinds of houses) and the tie in job to me looked pretty shabby. It may just be the way it looks in the picture, cause the rest ofthe roofing job looks good. I was hoping to find a better way that would look better. I found it though.Thanks for all the info, especially from Joe.James DuHamel

8. 
   Guest_ | Apr 24, 2000 06:17am | #12

   *Joe, thirty lashes with a wet noodle for me! You're right about your valley rafter, came home after a bad day, apparently not thinking too clearly. When I looked back at my post after reading yours, I wondered what I was thinking. It's good to have such a huge review committee here. But by the lack of posts on the subject, I suspect this one comes up often, and has been worked to death. I am suprised however at how many bay roofs I see that are not framed correctly by people that should know better. Too many carpenters out there that don't understand their rafter square.

9. 
   Guest_ | Apr 24, 2000 12:15pm | #13

   *Steve,

   Never a wet noodle around when you need one. . . ;-}

   Your're right though, this topic does come up a lot. Also, I would agree with you about how many bad bay window roofs I see.

   View Image © 1999-2000"The first step towards vice is to shroud innocent actions in mystery, and whoever likes to conceal something sooner or later has reason to conceal it." Aristotle

10. 
    Guest_ | Apr 24, 2000 04:23pm | #14

    *John, one of the problems with your bay question, leads me to another question.Are you sure you want 1/4 pitches on all sides? If it's not critical, it's better to be flexible, and seek pleasant and appealing propertions instead. All too often, roof framers use improper criteria, and create ugly bay roofs.Take a close look at Mike's picture. Notice that the roof line that intersects the bay and brick, is parallel to the main roof line above. I'm esimating that the main roof is a 6/12, similar to the roof that you desire. If you are stubborn, and make your bay roof a 6/12, they will not be parallel as in Mike's picture. Why? because the line that intersects the brick is not a common rafter. It is a hip, or some hip/common hybrid.Usually too, since the walls of the bay are different dimensions, the ridge line will end up looking odd, if you insist on fixed pitches. Often, the points on the bay ridge are leaning out, instead of in, and just don't look that nice.In short, be flexible, especially with your pitch's. Don't get carried away with large overhangs either. Keep them proportinate to the bay. Quite often I nix the plan requirements and put in smaller projection. To date, I have never been questioned, even though I technically would be wrong, and therfore liable to properly redo the work.I have had to redo a bay that I foolishly followed the pitch plans on once. The points were indeed farther out than the soffit points and looked odd. The rookie framing it dind't have the moxie to alter the improper plans.blue

2. 
   gator2121_99 | May 22, 2000 11:46am | #15

   *
   i saw the same article, i believe it was in jlc last month

3. 
   john_cudd | May 22, 2000 11:46am | #16

   *
   What is the best way to frame a hip roof with a 1/4 pitch all sides. Do the hips run at 22.5 degrees or 45 degrees. Are the hips still cut at a 6/17?
   How does the angle of the window change the hip and affect the jacks. Life would be so much easier, if only the corners where square.