Anyone ever replaced a front door that is trapped behind a (relatively) new vinyl sinding job? A lady wants her front door replaced, but the new siding appears to be blocking the rough opening. Any ideas?
Thanks.
Anyone ever replaced a front door that is trapped behind a (relatively) new vinyl sinding job? A lady wants her front door replaced, but the new siding appears to be blocking the rough opening. Any ideas?
Thanks.
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Replies
I have run into similar situations. I usually pry off the brick mould and then cut or remove the nails holding the "J" channel and slide it out from the siding. If you still need some room, you can trim back the siding. I then fit the door in the opening. If the spacing is ok, remove the door, & slide the "J" back in, then finish with the door installation.
Vinyl Ain't Final !!! Peel that crap back, do your job and replace, trimming as needed.
Does the frame have to be replaced. How about replacing it with a replacement unit. I've installed quite a few steel door systems. The door comes prehung on a frame that goes under the molding, it is like angle iron.
Unfortunately the frame is in almost as bad of condition as the door (one pane gone, lockset mortises chewed to the point of worthlessness. Even the frame striker mortise looks like its been attcked by C-4.) She's been the victim of several break-ins, and they haven't been kind to either the door or frame (let alone the client.)
I scoped it out again today, and I think my only recourse is to cut back the vinyl to expose the 4 1/2" exterior casings in order to expose the rough opening. Although the new unit is an inch wider, it's been my experiance that the builders 60 years ago were generous in their rough openings. I figured on leaving the vinyl cut back, and trim the exterior with primed flat stock and a back band to give back a little class that the vinyl took away.
The interior will be another matter, as the casings are original, painted, and ornate. I've always removed the interior casings and shimmed from the inside. Any ideas on how to leave the interior woodwork in place and intact, or is that more work than it's worth? (This may be a mute point, as the new door is 1" wider, and so the head casing would need to modified, anyway.)
Thanks for your reply.
make your access from the exterior.
I work in lotsa old homes.....and usually try to leave the interior wood work untouched.
Go at it with a plan......very easy and well worth the trouble.
Last time I had a new helper....kid was amazed!
I cut the caulk at the paint line......putty knife the moulding away.....then flat bar japanese thing for a bit more clearance.....I'm talking maybe a fat 8th.
Just enough to get a short metal bladed sawzaw in there......the zip each nail one by one. Real careful like.
Then..with the exterior opne for surgery.......expose and cut the framing nails that are holding the jamb in place......go all the way around......special attention at the top and corners...get them all.
Then......push/pull/shove/pry the top of the jamb loose. Sometimes the threshold comes with...sometime it's stuck. Or sometimes the legs come out and the threshold stays behind. Do what ever it takes to make sure the jamb legs aren't gonna pivot on the threshold and rip out the interior trim.
Even with a helper....I plan on having a saw horse or short ladder on the porch to rest the door top on while slowly pushing the whole door unit down from the top and out of the opening.
Then......climb outside and work the door out of the opening. Some come right out..some fight ya.
After it's out......just pop a nail thru the jamb into the door and away ya go.
It's been suggested to me to take the door off the hinges first then work the jamb.....but I like taking it all out at once. To me..the weight of the door helps gravity do it's job once the head jamb is free.
That depends on the original door size/weight too.
Then....clean out the opening....and if the original trim is installed fairly plumb and level.....just push the new up tight to it.
The customers will love ya.
Jeff
Buck Construction Pittsburgh,PA
Fine Carpentery.....While U Waite
Jeff, believe it or not, that was my original plan, cutting the nails holding the interior trim, until I measured the new door. It is wider than the old by 1". (New door is 32", and the old, and I mean old, is 31".) That means the interior head casing must be extended by some amount, depending on the reveal around the jamb. I still might try it your way; it would give me an accurate measurement on how much to modify the head jamb.
I have to admit, every door I've replaced, I've removed the door from the frame first. I work alone, and this seemed the easier way to go about it. But your idea has a certain appeal. Maybe I can use my 16 year old son in lieu of the ladder. . .
Thanks again. And good luck with your legal woes with the tile job.
tile job worked to a favorable conclusion with no mention of legalities at all.
Cooler heads prevailed. In the end.....I was thanked for being understanding. Nice turn of events.
JeffBuck Construction Pittsburgh,PA
Fine Carpentery.....While U Waite