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Josh, Most of the HardiPlank I deal with has a slight bevel on the factory ends which leaves a small gap when it butts together. Otherwise we don’t leave a gap because the material isn’t wood and it doesn’t expand or contract enouth to bother about it.
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Josh, Most of the HardiPlank I deal with has a slight bevel on the factory ends which leaves a small gap when it butts together. Otherwise we don't leave a gap because the material isn't wood and it doesn't expand or contract enouth to bother about it.
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Josh, I just attended a seminar (meeting) that included a Hardie rep.
He says "NO Gaps!"
I believe him.
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*Well the instruction sheet I read that came with the siding I just finished installing said to leave a 1/8" gap wherever the hardi abutts wood (corner boards or window trim for example) and gapping where two pieces of the siding abutt is optional.
*well , that makes sense.. the fiber cement is going to be painted.. so the joint where the plank meets wood will be caulked and then painted..if the material is butted tight.. there will be no room for a painters caulk joint.. thus it will form an (((unpaintable surface)), which is any crack that the paint can't gap or that exceeds the flexure of the paint.....the 1/8 joint should be there no matter what the instructions say...
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just left the "tools" section and one of the guys mentioned how hard it is to leave an 1/8 inch gap in hardie plank.( Hard to gap meaning a quality look when we are all used to perfection and mitered seams in siding) An old pamphlet I have does not mention leaving a gap. We use to sub out our hardie and he never left a gap in hardie ( but did in LP).we leave a gap probabally about a 1/16th to an 8th. So what is the rule with hardie?