I have read where some say that a garage door r.o. should be the exact size of the door, i.e. a 9 wide x 7 tall garage door should have a r.o. of 9×7. Some others say the r.o. should be door size + 3″ in width and + 1 1/2″ in height. Which should be used?
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Some others say the r.o. should be door size + 3" in width and + 1 1/2" in height. Which should be used?
I always used that because we use 2x's for side and top jambs. On the inside we nail 2x4 (goal posts we call them) flat for the tracks to be bolted to.
Are you doing the same thing?
Well Joe not sure which route to go. I guess it just depends on the trim we are going to go with.
I use 2x10's for the jambs to get past the 8" block. That gives us a finished opening of 9'. I nail 2x4's flat to the jambs and the garage door guys bolt their tracks to the 2x10's. If there's vinyl siding those 2x10's get wrapped with coil. If we're using wood siding, we wrap the 2x10's with either 1x cedar or azek. That would make the opening 8' 10'1/2".
Joe Carola
I will bach up framer and Mike Smith dimensions. That is how we do it also.
Edited 7/25/2008 10:53 pm ET by frammer52
If in doubt, read the instructions or call your garage door company.
The garage door RO will depend on what you use for finish materials. We often wrap ours with coil or steel fascia, so we frame them to the exact size---a 9x7 is framed 9x7.
At the advice of my neighbor (who installs garage doors for a living) I framed mine exactly 9x7 when I framed my garage. I trimmed that opening with 1x Azek (so I lost 3/4 " on each side of opening and 3/4" at the top) So after trimming, my door opening is 8' 10 1/2" wide by 6' 11 1/4 " tall. And you will also lose a little more when the rubber molding is installed around the door (+/- 3/8)
That's the way it was shown in one of the articles I read.
One step further - depending upon how you expect the interior to be finished - have your trim carp finish the inside of the opening before the door is installed.
In such situations, the flat 2x4 on the inside to bolt the track to needs to be removed and a 3/4" spacer needs to take it's place.
Personally, I like stained oak woodwork inside of my garage.
Thanks pete. You wouldn't have any pictures would you? I like the look of stained wood also.
Not just yet. The last house in CA was done this way and I didn't get pic's of that part.
This one, I've installed a high oak chair rail the height of the top of the doors and windows. To it, I hang tool holders and such to protect the walls. But the base and garage door openings are waiting until I select the right doors to replace those now in place.
Then, I'll take some nice pics.
I would like to it when you do.
the finished opening should be the size of the nominal door
so a 7x9 would be FINISHED at 7 high & 9 wide
the installer will add the weather strip to the trim closing the opening down apx 3/8 on each side and the topMike Hussein Smith Rhode Island : Design / Build / Repair / Restore
Thanks Mike.
Yeah Marson I guess it just depends on how you finish it.
The finished opening needs to be the same size of the door. It can be smaller but your just losing opening space. The door installer will install a weather striping, which is why the finished opening can be the same size of the door.
It sounds like one group is calling the "rough opening" the finish opening. The other group is calling the finish opening the rough opening.
We always installed the finished jambs. Typically in a normal 4" wall, we used 2x6 to line the "rough opening". This creates a "finished opening" but no one ever referred to it as the finished opening...instead they called it the rough opening.
I think that pretty much explains the confusion. For garage doors, your finished opening should be 9' x 7'.
Bob's next test date: 12/10/07
Well, we need some new terminology. I think of a rough opening as something that is sized so that finish materials can be plumbed, etc. So technically, if you are wrapping a garage door jamb with coil, then it isn't really a rough opening. I'll be more careful next time:)