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   Guest_ | Sep 06, 2000 04:24pm | #1

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   There is a company that makes a doorless glass block shower enclosure floor out of acrylic. I'm not sure if it was Owens Corning or maybe PPG but I remember finding it while doing research on the web for glass block showers. They actually sell the whole kit-- floor, glass blocks, ect.. It's a sharp looking setup. Sorry I don't have more details.

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   Guest_ | Sep 06, 2000 05:15pm | #2

   *What is the surround going to be made of? if it is cultured marble, then just have the marble company build you a shower pan with a curb for the glass block. If it will be tile, then have your tile guy do the same. (I personally prefer marble, you don't have a multitude of grout joints with potential for leaks.) Also, I would have some concerns about the end of the glass block wall that is not tied into the wall. you might want to consider either running your wall all the way up to the ceiling, or running one more course over to the next wall to create a "doorway" and thus tying it into the wall. I have done this using strips of cultured marble to "case out" the inside of the doorway opening. This gives the exposed edge of the block a finished edge as well as providing a substantial amount of strength. Or, if you don't want a "doorway" one other suggestion might be to run the last one or two vertical courses all the way up to the ceiling . this will also help strengthen the wall. I would still do the strip of marble on the exposed edge. I have also done this using Wilsonart "gibralter" which is probably a better product than marble but is quite a bit more expensive. good luck!

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   Guest_ | Sep 06, 2000 06:49pm | #3

   *Brent, I'm not going to attempt to talk you out of what you want to do. It sounds just fine save a couple details.One, I'd go ahead and finish the curb before the block goes in. Whatever impermeable material you use may be fine. The only caveat here is that if you use a pre-molded pan that you firmly bed it all around. Flexion will cause fatigue cracks over time.Why not anchor the GB to the curb top in the form of the same panel anchors and ladders? In the last 2 months, I have done 5 installations--358 blocks--like what you are contemplating. Each was anchored at only one wall and each had 1 or 2 rows of angle block. At the 45 I run an aluminum channel full ht in the vert joint. This is anchored to the curb at an "L" flange with 2 or more 4" by 8 screws. No predrilling except in the finish material. I make sure to catch the wood framing with the screws. If no wood, I use epoxy and lead anchors.The GB will have a tendency to tilt out of plumb to the convex side of the wall. For strength, do not let this happen. If out 1/8" at, say, course 3 the defect will only become larger at the top. Spreading the blocks to bring it back in is one way to correct but not the ideal. Lay that first course and walk away for the day. Very important to establish that "footprint" precisely. Work methodically and slowly. You'll most likely have problems getting those angle blocks to line up. Reject those which have the two halves offset in alignment. Remember, you are concerned about the block being in line in 3 planes. Also, since you can see through the block any voids in the mortar can be seen.

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   brent_collins | Sep 07, 2000 10:12pm | #4

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   The shower is going to be tile. I plan on building the shower pan myself. I have built them before using the membrane and 2x4's for the curb. What is the anatomy of your curbs? If you need to put the glass block on top of your curb how would you build it? I was planning on useing the same method that I have used in the past, which is Felt paper,metal lathe,mortar, shower pan membrane, metal lathe and mortar. They will be applied in that order. My concern was not that the pan and curb would leak but that the glass wall would be strong enough.
   Can you share with me the process you go through to build your curb before you start your glass block wall?

   Thanks Brent

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   brent_collins | Sep 08, 2000 04:40am | #5

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   Getting ready to build a walk-in shower with one free standing glass block wall. Plan to use the supports that connect the glass block to wall and than put the ladder supports every other row. The glass block wall will be set on top of a curb built out of 2x6's. The glass block will set on top of curb after shower pan and mortar have been applied. Thinking of allowing the glass block to hang over inside edge of curb to allow for tile. The wall will be 5 feet long than take a 45 degree turn for another 16"inches and than another 45 degree for 16". The height on the wall will be 80 inches. The question I have is will the wall be strong enough? Any other ideas on how to make the wall stronger? Also, would concrete block be a better choice for the curb? If so how would you hook it to the sub floor? (Subfloor is OSB

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   Guest_ | Sep 08, 2000 04:40am | #6

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   Sorry Brent, I can't help you much with the details of the curb construction. I have always left that up to some one else. After reading your post, I had gotten the mistaken impression that you were going to be applying the glass block directly on top of a 2x6 plate hence my concern on that point. I will say that what you have described with the tile and mortar sounds fine to me as far as being watertight and stout, but I am not an expert in that area. I was more concerned with the strength of the end your G B wall that seems to be left "flappin in the wind" I would strongly urge you to tie that end in such as in one of the methods I described earlier.