Glazing Putty and Laminated Glass
Michael4653
| Posted in Construction Techniques on
Does anyone know of a suitable glazing putty product that can be used with laminated glass? It is my understanding that traditional linseed oil-based glazing putty will attack the adhesive that binds the glass and inter layer.
Thanks,
Replies
I think you mean insulated glass. In which case a urethane or poly urethane is the standard. Silicone is also a NO-NO, with insulglass.
Laminated glass is similar to safty glass ( think windshields) and is unaffected by putty, but is most often ( in auto glass installs) urethaned as well.
Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
Repairs, Remodeling, Restorations
They kill Prophets, for Profits.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Dj_oEx4-Mc4
I don't mean insulated glass, although I think it is the same issue. The application is for safety glazing for wood doors and fixed side lights single glazed in the traditional manner in a rabbetted rail and stile frame and painted. I am not familiar with products used for glazing automotive windshields, but the putty would need to be painted.
I am in the process of writing specs for restoration and repair work for deteriorated wood doors and windows for an historic building and need a product name that I can specify. I have found one product from Bostik of New Zealand, but nothing on this side of the Atlantic (or Pacific.)
see the following link, particularly the last paragraph: http://www.bostik.co.nz/kwikpaint/kwikaint%20page2.htm
Thanks for your reply.
Well, I'd say it is Tempered saftey glass, in which case putty is fine.Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
Repairs, Remodeling, Restorations
They kill Prophets, for Profits.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Dj_oEx4-Mc4
BTW, I couldn't get the link to work yet.Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
Repairs, Remodeling, Restorations
They kill Prophets, for Profits.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Dj_oEx4-Mc4
I may go ahead and use tempered glass, but my preference would be for laminated glass because when laminated glass breaks it remains in place and continues to secure the building until it is replaced.
If you Google "Kwikpaint Glazing Putty" you will get the product that I found by Bostik New Zealand. I just now sent an email to Bostik New Zealand and Bostik United States about the availability of product or a similar product in the United States. We'll see what they say.
Thanks,
Michael
Edited 10/29/2008 7:16 pm ET by Michael4653
If security is the concern putty and points isn't really going to keep busted laminated safety in place.
Why not? Assuming impact is only enough to break glass and not obliterate the window ... which in any case nothing will really hold the glass in place. Tempered glass shatters and falls out ... safety glass will break and stay in place (agian assuming a large object isn't actually going through the window. For example a baseball hitting safety/laminated may break it, but if not penetrating, it will remain in place.
I quit using putty a while ago, I have since adopted using Azek glass stops, caulked and pinned in place. No drying time, no shrinkage cracks, no mess, paintable, and reuseable.
Works for me.Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
Repairs, Remodeling, Restorations
They kill Prophets, for Profits.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Dj_oEx4-Mc4
Are they (Azek glass stops) something Azek makes and markets or do you make them yourself.
(reading your posts for these last several years makes me think they are something you custom make. yes?)
Yeppers, I rip 3/4" stock to 5/8ths wide, tilt the bandsaw table to approx 30 degrees, and rip triangles that ate 5/8th by 1/4" -0''. These vary from sash to sash and door to door, some sash I am making have 1 5/16" thick rails and stiles and muntins, and some doors are 1 3/4" thick. The size of the glass rabbet and the thickness of glass also affect the stop dimensions.Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
Repairs, Remodeling, Restorations
They kill Prophets, for Profits.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Dj_oEx4-Mc4
I've used silicone w/ insulated/double glazed units many times w/ no problems. Maybe the silicone isn't compatible w/ the butyl sealant ... but then again, I've never had a need or detail that didn't have the silicone contact only the glass. Not sure if I ever saw a situation where the edge sealant would ever have to contact e.g. glazing compound or any sealant around the edge.
Call John Stahl and ask him about compatibility, but I think that this: http://www.advancedrepair.com/glazing/glazing.htm is your product.
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I don't see lammi glass in the FAQs - http://www.advancedrepair.com/glazing/faq_glaze_ease.htm
Jeff
Edited 10/29/2008 9:17 pm ET by Jeff_Clarke
I have installed A LOT of insulated and single layer glass with acrylic-based caulk, nearly identical to the way John Stahl shows (I just used my bent glazier's knife instead of the special one Mr. Stahl shows). Also, in lieu of acetic-cure silicone, which as Sphere points out is a no-no with IGU's, you can use neutral-cure silicone (recommended by my IGU supplier).
And the product isn't caulk.
Jeff
Jeff,
Thanks,
I just called Advanced Repair Technologies and confirmed that Glaze Ease 601 is suitable for laminated glass.
I haven't gotten a response back from Bostik yet.
Michael
I don't know what your application is but one of the disadvantages of using silicone is that if you ever break the glass it may be hell to remove the silicone.
Jeff
As Kenhill commented, neutral cure silicones are fine to use with laminated glass. Urethanes work fine as well.
Also as Kenhill pointed out, avoid acetic acid cure silicones because they can affect the PVB interlayer.
I have never heard anything about linseed oil affecting PVB. Although since laminated glass is typically used in impact or safety applications, it is typically siliconed in place for residential applications for the additional strength versus glazing putty.