Grab Bar Installation On Tiled Shower Wall

I have to install some grab bars on a tiled tub/shower wall. I know that it is recommended to screw into studs, but this will not always be possible. I have used toggles in the past on hollow walls but I have seen some new toggle products that don’t require the item being hung to be pre-installed on the toggle’s screw. Would appreciate some product recomendations on these new types of toggles.
Thank You
Replies
Jim,
Happy New Year.
Have you looked at The Toggler anchors? Might do it, your call. Way better than regular toggles.
There is also an anchor specifically made for grab bars. I’ll try to find the link.
Might be included in Moen grab bars (or proprietary)
I’ve used The Toggler for many applications and carry them in the van.
Dog Kennel panel mounting, towel bars, additional mounting locations for wall hung over the range micros and tv’s, large chalkboards, other things on metal stud / 5/8ths drywall commercial “stuff”………and grab bars, towel bars etc.
Hello Calvin
Haven't communicated in quite a while.
Happy New Year to you.
I've seen both products. The Moen product requires a pretty big hole, 1 1/4" or 1 1/2".
I'll get the Togglers.....you've never steered me wrong.
Thank You for responding.
P.S. I still owe you and your wife dinner next time you come to Massachusetts.
JIM
I use a “boring bit” to go through the drywall. The flat wood boring bit with the longer spurs on the ears…. 1/2”bit!
You don’t want to “blowout” the backside of the tile backer/plaster/drywall.
You lived on the SW side of the city. That was so long ago, its probably considered the center now.
We camped somewhere close to there, a city park maybe. Bet that’s been gobbled up.
https://www.moen.com/professional/innovation/securemount
Toggler: https://toggler.com/products/snaptoggle-heavy-duty-toggle-bolts-zinc-plated-carbon-steel-channels
I've used Wingits wall anchors for a number of grab bars to tiled walls where attaching to studs was not possible. Home Depot sells them, along with a special arrowhead shaped drill for the installation. They are rated for 600 lbs. They are the best, in my opinion...
Thank You.
I saw them in my searches. I'll give them a closer look.
For your grab bar installation, you might want to consider the Toggler anchors or Wingits wall anchors. Toggler provides heavy-duty toggle bolts, and Wingits are rated for up to 600 lbs, which would be great for a grab bar. Calvin's recommendation of using a "boring bit" can help avoid tile damage, and Wingits also come with a special drill bit for easy installation. Both are solid options if you can't always hit a stud. Happy to help, and good luck with your project!
The boring bit I mention was for continuing the hole through drywall/tile backer and plaster, I would not bore tile with it.
I'm leaning toward the Moen Secure Mounts. It requires a 1 1/4" tile hole saw with a center drill bit. I see lots of them. Can you recommend any good brand(s)?
Thank You.
Sorry Jim, I cannot.
Might try here: https://www.johnbridge.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=62222
Call Moen's customer service and ask to talk to one of their techs they will probably give you a couple of suggestions. Tell us and we can probably give you our two cents.
I have called Moen and their proprietary product will work. I've been getting a lot of comments saying that while all the attachment products e.g. Togglers, Moen's etc will handle the weight the question is whether my tiled wall will be the weak link and be the point of failure. I've got a couple of ideas, but my problem now is trying to determine how the corner of the tub wall, where I need to install a vertical entry bar, is constructed. I've got a scanner but the stud configuration doesn't seem to match any of the common corner stud configurations I can find.
Can you recommend a good tile bit? I'll be drilling 3/16" and 1/4" holes. I've seen a lot of different brands advertised and haven't bought a tile bit in a long time.
Thank You
I agree w/ the Wingits recommendation- as noted, they're strong and there's an available bit for boring the right size hole through wall tile (although NOT porcelain.) They make a Wingit version especially intended for grab bars- be sure that's what you buy. One downside is they stick out quite a bit on the backside- do what you can to verify that you have clearance.
Crazy question but can you access any of the wall from the back.
Not crazy at all. The front wall of the shower, where the tub spout/shower head/faucet are located, has a linen closet on the other side. I want to install a vertical entry bar and a horizontal bar on the front wall of the shower. I was thinking I could extend attachment screws/bolts through the front wall of the shower and attach to wood or metal bars on the back wall of the linen closet. The bars could extend the width of the linen closet wall and provide plenty of bearing across all studs. The grab bar on the side wall of the shower can be installed on an angle and hit studs on both ends......it would be angled upward toward the front wall so that the occupant could pull themself to a standing position.
After all the above, I can access the back of the front wall of the shower via the linen closet. The side wall of the shower has a room on the other side of the wall.
So if you remove drywall in linen closet you can install blocking between studs and install grab rail wherever you want. Then just patch drywall. I've used the wingits but only because I had no access from other side. You just made this a very easy fix.
I probably won't remove any drywall in the linen closet. I'll just surface mount a board along the back wall of the linen closet. I'll use long screws to secure the grab bar and terminate the screws in T nuts that are installed in the board in the linen closet. Should be a pretty easy install and all the studs will be providing support to the grab bar.
!
.
Simplicity at its finest!
One concern is the amount of movement of the screw at the grab bar end, if it is not hitting structure for 4" (2x4 wall) or 6" (2x6 wall), since the structure is on the outside surface of the linen closet. Could be a fair amount of torque, possibly cracking tile if anyone put real strain on the grab bar.
I'd just remove a piece of drywall, add blocking, replace drywall. Better connection, especially for a grab bar. Plus you can make sure to not hit any plumbing/wiring.
A simple drywall patch will look no worse than a separate board on the surface of a linen closet, and yet be more functional and take no more time.