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Yikes! I’ve created a monster. I chose “tumbled stone” for the backsplash of a kitchen counter. It’s very porous and pitted. I’d like to use grout that is a few shades darker than the creme-colored stone. Is there any way to keep the grout out of the deeper pits of the stone short of an after-the-fact acid wash? Please advise.
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my tile man used "tumbled stone" for a nice vanity countertop.. as far as i can see.. there is no way to keep the grout out of the fissures.. the only thing you could do is use a color grout that blends almost perfectly with the stone..
grout the stone and then dig out the grout from the joints..
and regrout with your contrasting grout..
the fissures will already be filled and the new grout will only go into the joints..
however... we used a matching grout and the effect was really nice.. and not all of that work....
my vote... use a grout that blends with the "tumbled stone"...or make up your mind that the grout is going to be in everything.. joints, fissures, and depressions.....
*Pipe it in with a grout bag, then tool it. Depends on the size of the lines, though. Not fun...Someone once asked me about adhering squares of contact paper to the front of each tile. Could work. Never heard how it turned out.
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Kay-
my first question is do you really want pourous stone as a back splash? sounds like a cleaning nightmare waiting to happen. but, i have been wrong so many times i don't even pay attention myself anymore!
about that grout, though. as an aspiring amateur mosaicist, this could possibly be handled by these mosaic techniques:
1) simply not using grout. this would result in a more 3D effect -- it could be very nice. up to you. (this technique is used for pourous tiles and glass -- a situation just like you find yourslf in!)
2) adding the color to the cement used behind the stone, and using lots and lots of cement. the, press the tile into the cement, displacing it and forcing it inbetween to tiles/stones. gently wipe away the excess grout so that it doesn't get into the surrounding stone. this technique sounds labor intensive to me, though. a bit like the grout bag (cake icing bag?!?!) technique.
3) other idea: excess grout in the "holes" of the stones may look quite nice, too!
-megan
if you care to look at a book that has a few photos of how both techniques will turn out, i recommend: "Mosaics: Inspriations and 24 original projects" by Fassett and Bahouth
mongo -- FYI: the contact paper is a mosaic technique (indirect method/reverse method). very helpful for accurate placement of tiles, for doing work in a studio before moving it onsite, and for giving the mosaic a flat smooth finish (often desired for a table top, for instance.) :-)
*Check your local tile dealer or home center which sells tile. They should sell a tile sealer which you can put on the tile before you grout which then will allow you to wipe away the access without it filling any pores or crevises. My partner and I have installed this type of tile before and have had great success with this. Good luck.
*Before you grout your tile rub a soft wax onto then(car wax, candle, ect.) then apply your grout. The wax should easily come off with a hydrogen peroxide- water mix (50/50) and a little elbow grease. since your tile is so porous maybe you should consider a thick polyurethane sealer. the spray on type would be the best for your application.
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Yikes! I've created a monster. I chose "tumbled stone" for the backsplash of a kitchen counter. It's very porous and pitted. I'd like to use grout that is a few shades darker than the creme-colored stone. Is there any way to keep the grout out of the deeper pits of the stone short of an after-the-fact acid wash? Please advise.