Replies

1. 
   PhillGiles | Jul 19, 2005 08:43am | #1

   Put up a fillets first using adhesive and a couple of screws into the the wall's header+

   .
   Phill Giles
   The Unionville Woodwright
   Unionville, Ontario
2. 
   calvin | Jul 19, 2005 02:41pm | #2

   These blocks are glued and pinned to the plate.  The blocks should be ripped to the spring angle of the crown and a little shy in dimension so the crown will always touch the wall/ceiling b/4 the block.  Some here just put up one full rip.

   In some cases you might be able to pick up a wide lath catcher with a long enough nail.

   Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.

   Quittin' Time

   
1. 
   davidmeiland | Jul 19, 2005 09:33pm | #4

   I do it like Calvin, except I use 3-1/2" screws to attach to the top plate. In a lot of cases I just run the blocks on all the walls, which gives me something rock solid to nail the crown to without looking for studs or ceiling joists. I think it's faster that way.

3. 
   Dave45 | Jul 19, 2005 05:00pm | #3

   I run wood strips along the top of the wall that are nailed into the top plate.  This gives me a solid place to nail my crown wherever I need a nail instead of just at a stud.  The "brackets" in the picture are used to hold the crown in it's approximate position while I nail it off.

    

4. 
   mbdyer | Jul 20, 2005 01:32am | #5

   Make "ells" of 3/4" ply rips or 1x4's.  Then rip them angled so they fit behind the crown as it fits to the wall and ceiling.  Chop off a small piece of crown and put it upside down on the floor against the wall.  Measure the space, flip (the wall measure stays the wall measure, the floor measure becomes the ceiling measure) and cut your blocking an 1/8 or 3/16 less.  Most crown is either 45/45 or 38/52 degrees(this is "spring angle") but if you keep plenty shy from hitting the back of the crown it isn't critical-the blocking only has to catch and hold the nail.  Install the blocking along the wall/ceiling joint in strips, stop a foot or so from all corners-inside or outside.  This will allow you to "roll" the crown in order to mate it perfectly with the next piece.  Screw or framing nail the blocking into all studs, constr. adhesive is a good idea.

   Another idea, one used in antiquity, was to design the crown detail with a frieze/cap board detail.  Run baseboard (or simple 1x's) along the walls and the ceiling as well so that the ogee detail shows past the crown (how much is subjective, an inch of flat is a good place to start).  These backboards can then be attached to studs and joists by the strongest method available as most of their width is covered allowing you to nail off the crown wherever needed for good fitting joints.  You can create impressive looking crown molding from even the stock stuff from the big box stores this way.

5. 
   JeffBuck | Jul 20, 2005 02:47am | #6

   I do the same as Dave ...

   except with a 2x ... ripped at the right angle .... and kept a 1/4" "shy" for the crown.

   Just blast it into the top plate with the framer . ... or screw it in ...

   then nail away.

   Jeff

       Buck Construction

    Artistry In Carpentry

        Pittsburgh Pa

1. 
   Dave45 | Jul 20, 2005 05:55am | #7

   Damn!!! I knew I shoulda gotten a patent on that idea. - lol