Replies

1. 
   IMERC | Jul 21, 2003 09:38pm | #1

   Plumb insted of level. Door jambs out of square. Compensate by changing the elevation of the buck side up or down as required.

   You can adjust the strike side up or down to do the same. Check the threshold first. Setting the buck sideto the high or low side will dictate which you do.

2. 
   mike4244 | Jul 21, 2003 11:22pm | #2

   Remove hinge pins and door from frame. Check opening for width and height. Determine door swing, then plumb a line on the hinge side. If opening is 1/2" larger than frame then add 1/4" of shims to this side. I shim the top hinge side plumb and add appropiate thickness at bottom hinge side. Fasten line vertical and add gauge blocks top and bottom.Now shim in between to the line using third gauge block. When done the hinge side is perfectly plumb and straight. Install frame, check head for level, shim low side if needed.Fasten hinge side temporarily, shim lock side top , bottom, at latch and anywhere else if needed.Check fit, if door hits at top lock side , raise lock jamb up.The secret is to make the hinge side dead plumb, head jamb square or level with hinge jamb.I use a plumb bob instead of a level , 3/4"x3/4" blocks for gauge blocks. This method is accurate and fast when you get the hang of it. With practice you can do each opening complete, except lockset in 30 minutes or less.

   Mike

   
   

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   Edited 7/21/2003 4:24:47 PM ET by MIKEK4244

3. 
   bkhy | Jul 22, 2003 01:06am | #3

   Set the head jamb level centered in the opening. Then plumb side jamb (plumb bob is the best), set opposite side with a spreader.

4. 
   briankeith | Jul 22, 2003 02:58am | #4

   If I understand that the door is hitting the jamb leg at the top....

   You might check to be sure that the top hinge depth is set properly in the door and jamb. "Make sure it is flush).

   If they are sticking out a bit just deepen the cut and that should give you some clearance.

   But it sounds like you are on the right track. Plumb the hinge side and simply fit the head and strike side to fit the door.

   I'm pretty sure that there are no true craftsman putting them together and if a tool is out of adjustment, they will keep putting them together. Maybe you just hit a bad run.

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5. 
   Shep | Jul 22, 2003 03:43am | #5

   One suggestion for helping out your doors-- back out one of the screws from the top hinge and install a 2-1/2 or 3" screw that catches the trim stud. I've found that nails will sooner or later (but usually sooner ) loosen, making the door hit the latch side jamb near the top. Make sure that you shim solidly behind the hinge. I've gotten to the point that I do this on all the doors I install.

1. 
   rasconc | Jul 22, 2003 03:57am | #6

   I recently installed a Masonite brand french door unit from HD, $329.  They left one screw out of each hinge and provided a matching long screw to go thru into the trimmer or jack stud.  I agree, that is the way to do it.  They have a hard time sagging done this way.

6. 
   PhillGiles | Jul 22, 2003 08:14am | #7

   From the wording of the question I just have to ask: does the door hit the top of the jam before or after you level the lintle jam and nail the strike side ? If you can't level the lintle jam (the horrizontal at the top), then you're setting the hinge side too high, but logic says that wouldn't happen every time, which made me wonder if, like a couple of my neighbours have done, you've set one side and assumed the jam/door assembly doesn't rack or twist.

   .

   Phill Giles

   The Unionville Woodwright

   Unionville, Ontario

7. 
   Sancho | Jul 22, 2003 05:18pm | #8

   Check out Gary Katz's book "The door hangers handbook". It can answer all your questions. It is very well written and describes the process of hanging prehung doors in a way that even I can understand. But to me it sounds like your head jamb is not set correctly

    

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