Replies

1. 
   Marson | Mar 16, 2008 04:47pm | #1

   What do you want to know? I've used it some. It goes up fast, but it's damn heavy. Plan on breaking a few sheets.

   We cut it with a skilsaw with a Hardi blade. Window cutouts are challenging, but doable. I've always found that FC is harder to cut precisely than wood. But maybe I just need more practice.

   I've always used it with a batten system to seal the vertical joints, but perhaps you could caulk those joints depending on your climate. If you install it by the book, you should gap everything 1/8". Horizontal joints need to be flashed of course. I can get it to up to 10' long.

2. 
   mmoogie | Mar 16, 2008 04:58pm | #2

   I've done repairs on a high-end house that has it on the exterior walls of the pool house.

   I had to replace three or four of the panels that cracked over the course of about 10 years, almost all on the sunny and windward side. I also constructed a porch skirt out of it for this same house. After a couple of Upstate NY winters the hardi-panel on the porch skirt was delaminating, and we rebuilt it again, this time out of PVC.

   The panels on the main walls of the house seem to weather OK. The porch skirt was low to the ground and painted. The panels on the main walls are unpainted.

   It is kind of a pain to cut accurately. Very dusty, noisy work. Respirators and ear protection are a must.

   Steve

3. 
   mmoogie | Mar 16, 2008 05:02pm | #3

   Dug up a photo...

   View Image

4. 
   dovetail97128 | Mar 16, 2008 06:42pm | #4

   Have done 2 wineries using both Hardie and a Spanish licensed product that is similar.

   Screws for attachment to battens over insulation for rainscreen.
   Bg Stretch caulk for the seams.

   Stainless screw with neoprene washers. Both building weather well , impact damage from fork lifts is a problem.

   Heavy , usual dust issues, very little damage from handling or during construction. Pre drill for screws with spade point carbide drill bit.

   They can't get your Goat if you don't tell them where it is hidden.
5. 
   WindowsGuy | Mar 17, 2008 09:08pm | #5

   I have used the Certainteed FC panels with good results.  I liked the Weatherboard 'stucco' texture pattern better than Hardie's.  They also come with other/no texture at all which may suit the style of some buildings better, but will might make hiding nail holes harder. 

   Cutting accurately was no problem whatsoever, just get a decent FC blade.  Where  a dust mask and/or use a dust collecting saw.

   Working alone I broke 1 panel out of 50 due to stupidity, and another due to the wind catching it and snapping it on my way to the cutting table. (more stupidity)  The panels were well under $1/sq. ft. so not too big a loss.  The FC trim boards were needlessly expensive, but made for a nice all-FC install.

   The panels are heavy and can be a challenge for one person to handle in full 4x8 size, although I would say they're equivalent to a 4x8 sheet of 3/4 ply.

   Here's a pic of a gable wall in the process of being painted.  The top is done, while the bottom is still in factory primer.  The battens are FC trim from Certainteed as well (thicker than normal siding).  You can still see nail and screw holes to be filled and gaps to be caulked in the bottom sections.

   View Image

   I nailed (siding gun) all the FC panels (maze FC nails) and screwed the battens with self-drilling masonry screws.  You have to hit the studs or patch the blowouts.  On this house, there was rigid foam in the field with osb sheathing only in the corners!  That made hitting the studs even more important.  The screws nicely snugged the battens down to the panels even where there were no studs.

   Ditto the caution above forklift damage.  The boneheads delivered my load as seen in this picture below.  The trim boards on top were undamaged, but a couple panels on the bottom had nasty nicks in them.  I didn't need to return any as I used them for angled secitons and cut out the damage.

   View Image

   Have fun.

1. 
   DaveRicheson | Mar 19, 2008 12:54am | #6

   Thanks WindowsGuy.

   That is the type of knowledge I am seeking.

   I have one quote for EIFS on this house. Sticker shock is a mild expression compared to what I said when I opened the quote. Still, I would bite the bullet and spend the money if I thought I could get a top rate job. My research idicates that is not likely to happen with any of the contractors currently working in my area.

   The house design calls for 1/2" ply or osb sheathing board, then stucco wrap or 30# felt, and 2" of rigid foam for the EIFS. I'm thinking I need to makes some changes in order to use FC panels. Neither Certainteed or Hardi approve installation over anymore than 1" of foam. I am wondering if the 1/2" sheathing board behind the foam would let me push the envelope on that one. The other thing that comes to mind is moving the wrap from behind the foam to over it and just behind the FC panels. I like the thought of the weather barrier being behind the siding instead of the foam.

   Any thoughts?

1. 
   WindowsGuy | Mar 19, 2008 01:32am | #7

   I am sure the restrictions on foam thickness are because the FC weight would cause the fasteners to bend over time and the FC would sag if they were supported only by foam for 2".  I wouldn't push the envelope on that one. 

   Wrap over the foam is redundant if the foam is properly installed (no voids) and is taped well.  If not installing an air gap, wrap would decouple the two surfaces providing some benefit, but by far, an air space is preferable to encourage drying to the outside and minimizing pressure effects.

   I would install FC over an honest to goodness drainage plane like that recommended by Joe Lstiburek over at BSC.  If you haven't already, hit the web site for a wealth of info on this topic.   They have lots of diagrams and reference works on this topic.

   http://www.buildingscience.com/buildingphysics/moisturecontrol/rainpenetrationcontrol/drainageplane/main_topic/