I’m getting ready to order material (HardiPlank) for siding replacement, and matching cedar siding on part of the house which has a 4 1/2″ reveal. The installation instructions say that you need 1″ overlap; can I get away with 3/4″? It comes in 5 1/4 and 6 1/4, so I’m wondering if I can buy the 5 1/4. Will this void the warranty? Other reasons not to use the 5 1/4?
Edited 5/7/2008 4:28 pm ET by porkchop
Replies
A smaller overlap will make it more likely that you'll get water infiltration. If you do this, I'd be extra careful with flashing and use a rain screen behind the Hardi.
Mike Hennessy
Pittsburgh, PA
I'm doing a good sized Hardy job now and my advice would be to go with the 6 1/4" material. 3/4" doesn't leave much room for error especially on material that can be brittle or friable like fiber cement can.
I assume you're using a siding gun.
Also, what are you using to cut it? Electric shears. circ. saw. chop saw? I've tried them all and was not happy with the shears or circ saw. (I know it's just me, most are fine with the shears). I finally settled on a cheap Ryobi chop saw that I saw on sale at HD for $79.00. It works well for me.
I did spend some time and set up a nice cutting station with 8' extension wings, a trigger activated vacuum system, and adjustable tapes on the extension wings with a stop so I don't have to measure and mark each piece. It doesn't look as elegant as the A D & E stand but again, it works well for me.
Edited 5/7/2008 5:50 pm ET by fingers
Yes, I am gun nailing. Good point, that doesn't leave much room for error.
Gun nailing with what?I agree with others that the wider board/more overlap will be better, but if you're using a roofing nailer or a framing nailer like some guys do, you're more apt to have blowouts.A siding gun shoots a ring-shanked siding nail which is a bit thinner.Also good is a depth stop on the gun so your nail heads end up flush.I am an Animal
A Max siding nailer. I've tried the other routes, and bit the bullet for a siding nailer.
Then you're good to go!!I am an Animal
In my area, the lumber yards stock the 6 1/4, the 5 1/4 would be a special order and take a few days. I believe the price is about the same since they stock the larger of the two.I agree with others too, 3/4" isn't much to play with.
Ok, I ordered 6 1/4. Next Question: I'm replacing some blistering cedar siding on the windward side of the house (a fair bit of wind driven rain here) and want to maximize the life and minimize maintenance on the siding in the long run. (It's for my parents, so I know I'll hear about it if they have problems.) I'm planning on using Tyvek "Drainwrap," cedar trim (primed all 6 sides), stainless nails, joint flashing (made from tyvek?) and some variety of butyl caulking.
Anyone have any other good techniques to improve a hardieplank install? Oh, and believe it or not, I have read the instructions from Hardie.
When butt jointing I caulk the edge then butt other piece against it leaving the required 1/8" gap and wipe off the excess caulk with a cheap plastic putty knife. This type of knife flexes better in the embossed wood grain pattern. Dont put your joints on top of each other.
and then when you are passing that butt / caulk joint again in 24 hrs caulk it again w/ the putty knife & those joints will begin to disappear
It's good to put something behind the butt joints to act as a flashing. Some use felt, I've been using a 6" square of vicor, FHB has mentioned a product that comes on a pad, like large post-it notes that are called Bear Skins or something like that. I believe any of those will give a better job than just caulked butt joints.
It seems all of your questions were adressed but the one..Always follow their instructions for a warranty.. I have seen bad thing come about because of the statement"well it's only 1/2 inch difference.. They will NOT(99%) grant warranties if you didn't do it their way..frikkin' control freaks
All I ever wanted in life was an unfair advantage...
You will have significant problems if you attempt to blind nail it.
I wouldn't do what you are thinking and I'll do almost ANYTHING.
Bob's next test date: 12/10/07
in the maritimes for code and warranty we have to strap the walls with a 3/8-1/2'' lathe with insect screen along the bottom. need a recomended paper behind all joints and butt joints should be factory to factory with a 1/8 gap . we use quad to seal up.