Hey Everyone,
Got a question. (I preface this with, I sniffed around the archives and the one article I was looking for the site would not let me in. IDK why… I have been a member of B/T for quite sometime and a subscriber to F/H for years. But I digress) Can anyone give me a pointer on where to research the exact method to finish Butt Joints on Hardiboard siding? (Clapboard style) My Dad built a house many years ago (15 maybe? Does that sound right?) when H/B was a new product and he never finished the butt joints. He has asked me to come down and finish these up. I am concerned that it may not be as easy as he thinks. I know to look for swelling and I know he waaaay missed the painting after three months of installation deal but I want to do the best I can to help him. My understanding is just caulk. Any recomendations? An old issue number will be of great help. I appreciate all you alls input.
Thanks!
KD
Replies
The best advice is to use the right caulking. You need to use a high quality caulking, not just the cheap stuff like Dap Alex Plus. I like big stretch but there are others that are very good too. Make sure the joint is clean and dry before caulking. When you paint, use a 100% acrylic latex, again the better the paint, the better the result. I would stay with Ben Moore, California brand paint or another top brand. Here is a FHB article that talked about the install, and maybe the finish. http://www.taunton.com/store/pages/fh_toc_140.asp You can probably get it at your local library
Thank you "Double D Day" I appreciate it. I'll get on that issue. I am quite sure I have it here at the house. Thanks. Sounds like it is a fairly easy fix. Just use good quality materials. (Who knew!?) I will give it a try.
I'll be headed down tomorrow and I'll be able to report back anything new I may learn. Thank you again.
KD
Hardi gives you two choices, IIRC: caulk, or flashing behind the joint. Being the type of belt-and-suspenders guy that I am, I do both. <G>
Flashing might be a bit of a problem if it wasn't done as the siding went up. If the siding wasn't nailed right at the ends, you may be able to slip fit some in, but I'd try to incorporate a small bend at the top to help keep it from sliding back out.
I've had good luck with PL poly caulk. Just don't expect to paint it right away -- the specs call for letting it cure for a week (or two -- don't recall exactly) before painting.
Mike Hennessy
Pittsburgh, PA
Hi Mike,
Thank you for your input. Unfortunately I did not get your response prior to my departure to the job site. (It is 8 hours away) But I apprciate it all the same. Here is what happened; (And I hope DDAY sees this) I used GE Silicone II XST. (But not before I bought GE Silicone II Concrete and masonry caulk that was unpaintable! Arrrgggh. After driving an hour one way too!) DDay said use good stuff (Big stretch, which I could not find) and it appeared to be good stuff. I could not find anything that apeared to be "good stuff" that was water soluable so that presented a bit of a problem. It'll alll wash off as my skin sloughs off! But I worked my way through it. The job is curing right now and I expect it will get paint in a week or so. Maybe longer. So I could have done it your way with PL. We'll see. I am not real sure I did a good job but when it is painted then I'll know. If you are interested, I'll let you kow how it turned out but that could easily be months. I do not get down there much. (Outside of New Orleans in S. MS) But I sure do appreciate yours and DDays input. I only hope I may return the favor some day. Thanks! KD