*
Moved into a 2 story, 2 1/2 bath home 3 years ago with wife & 5 kids. All 5 kids and 1 messy Dad share same bathroom, which we pretty much destroyed in the 3 years. I started out on a Sunday morning trying to get a feel for the water damage and had it completely gutted by Sunday night except for the sink and cabinet. Toilet is fine although it is removed. Now I’m looking at studs and joists and plumbing, and they all appear to be fine. The bathroom is approximately 6’x10′. It had a dividing wall (non-load bearing) that my wife hated and I had fun removing. It did have a cast-iron tub w/ shower and tile walls at the back of the bathroom–all removed.
I’m pretty handy with tools and I’ve done some reading on bathroom remodeling. I also have enough sense to know that I can’t read it all in books.
2 questions: (1) What’s the best way to construct the tub/shower area to withstand this type of abuse? What types of materials should I use and what should I avoid. I have approx. $2K in the budget and I’m looking for a functional, durable bathroom. We want it to look nice but it doesn’t have to be real fancy. No plans on moving.
(2) What are the mistakes I will most likely make because I am not experienced? I’m hoping to avoid a few with your help.
Replies
*
Studs, cement backer board/tile surround,ply floor(no beaver-barf wood chip stuff,it swells)good workmanship,or if it suits you one piece fiberglass tub/shower unit?
*thats what was gonna suggest a one piece fiber glass shower/tub unit or a cast iron tub w/fiber glass surround.
*Save money on stuff like the tub (a single piece tub-surround is a good idea), but spend a little more on the fixtures, which will take a lot of use in this bathroom. Get something with a good warranty, like Delta or Moen.You won't stay in your $2k budget if you buy anything other than the basics--if you want tile, buy standard colours and sizes. I would tile the floor but stick with the one-piece tub surround for the walls. Save time and effort and money.I did my bathroom as my first reno project on my house. Full gut and replace was $4K ($3K US) but included new sink, toilet, spa tub, tile floor and surround, and matching tile wainscott on all walls. Plus full electrical and plumbing including permit cost. The only upgrades from cheapest-possible were the use of bullnose tiles for finished edges, better shower fixtures, and the spa tub.I learned a lot from that project. A big lesson was that tile requires relatively careful attention to detail. A second lesson is that using this web-site can save you troubles down the road. A third lesson was that following code for all details is a good way to avoid regret (recognizing that code isn't the last word by any means). Learn the code for insulation, electrical, and plumbing, and follow it.Small stuff: Level the floor if possible. If you want a tile floor but the original was not tile, make sure the toilet flange will meet the new floor level (+3/4" for tile and backer. I missed this one, but found an extension flange which fixed the problem. Use greenboard instead of standard drywall (except the ceiling). Pre-taped drywall corners are easier for a newbie. Use paint specific to bathrooms. Don't be afraid to buy tools.
*You've already made your biggest mistake- starting demo without much of a budget for the job. That completely made your decision to use fibreglass for the tub/shower unit. It might need to be a three piece though to get it into the doorways so check measurements carefully remembering that it is larger on the diaGONAL WHILE NEGOTIATING STAIRS ANDS HALLWAYS ETC. oopsUse moisture resistant Sheet rock MR not regular.You can do it. Good luck!
*Thanks for the input so far. I suggested $2K as an approximate budget but sounds like that might not be enough. Actually, money is not a big constraint, and I will put enough into the project to make it a quality bathroom. Would you still suggest fiberglass for the shower walls if my budget was say $5K?
*No I would go with a cast iron tub and a tile surround. Definately up grade the fixtures.
*What Ron said. If you do your own labour, $5K will get you a very nice 6x10 bath. In fact, I would probably not choose to spend that much myself. The difference between $1/sf floor tile and $5/sf floor tile ain't worth it to me, for eg. A bigger budget will allow you to ensure a lot of things go well. Replace your toilet and vanity/pedistal. New stuff is a lot easier to work with, and you can get a new toilet for $100, so why not? For your subfloor: Use 3/4" ply and glue (PL Premium or like) and screw it to the joists. This will add a lot of strength. 1/2" tile backer on top of that, attached with thinset and screws. Tile backer for the surround too. I've got two kids, aged four and two, and I'm really glad that I tiled the walls (first 32") of the bathroom. The wee tykes have poor aim, 'nuff said.
*A couple of other points to consider while you are in there with everything demolished. If you are going to level the floor, it might be a good idea to check out the plumbing drains, you did not mention the age of the house but in an older house the lead drains have a life expectancy of about 60 years, lots easier to replace now with the floor ripped up than making a repair from below and then having to repair a ceiling. Do not forget lighting and bath accessories in your budget, these two items are often overlooked and you can kill your budget with these things. Order everything before and have it on hand.Take your time and hire a pro if it gets to be too much.Best of Luck!Jeff Tibbitts
*Dan,I would advise you not to gut that ba...Dangit, too late !b : )
*Unless you have an unusally roomy hall & doorways forget the one peice surround. You can't get it in the room. Look at the Sterling Vikrell 4 pc tub shower. Easy to keep clean & inexpensive.
*You might as well by junk until you learn to take care of things.My daddy taught me to dry the walls of the shower and the floor after showering. My daddy taught me to walk lightly.My tile walls are on white board. My tile floors are on 2 layers of 1/2" CDX. 2 growing kids, my wife and myself have not destroyed these admittedly poor building practices in 20 years of use.
*Here in New England a 5k bathroom will get you cement board with a 5" drain in the center of the room, a hot water lead, a cold water lead, two hoses and a flashlight. Seriously, Rob is right about the 4 piece, you will most likely have to go with a vinyl floor, blue board the walls, pedestal sink, and if you want to give the room a fancier look, pop in a chair rail (wide enough for a shampoo bottle) and paint it all white.
*Go to a tile store and find the left over lots.USe cement backer board under the tiles and 3/4" ply under that if the floor feels unstableShower surround no doubt.PAY A PLUMBER to come in to help you for a day and let him advise you. Once on the job it'll probably be worth the cost if he's good....while you work with him pick his brain. MAke sure you can always call him for advice even if costs you some dough.
*Dan Briscoe- While you have it open to the extent you do, it really makes sense to upgrade the mechanicals (electrical/plumbing) because it will save you digging into the walls in the long run. This includes lighting, vent fans, and gfci near the sink. I remodel exclusively and always try to get my clients to go for this. For the expense, it's well worth the money even if you have to use dielectric unions to tie into old galvanized plumbing below the bath. If you have cast iron vents and waste, keep them. Much quieter. You can also shop for recycled parts if there are any such outlets in your area. I've been lucky finding beadboard, 2x lumber, and occasionally, a pedestal sink for clients who like the idea. If you have an exterior wall, insulate, replace any windows with upgraded energy efficient replacements. Prep work and attention to detail are the key factors in a bath. If you can find one, sometimes you can get a remodeling contractor to help coach you through the unknowns of a job. Just a few additional thoughts... Good luck.
*why not go to a salvage yard for the bathroom suite (or re-use the old one's), you can get some stuff better than the showrooms have. also if you spend the money on good materials and methods, and when you have more money, the suite and fixtures are easily replaced at any time.irish scrimp boy!