I need some advice on how to attach cherry stair treads and cherry veneered MDF risers to existing SPF stringers. <!—-><!—-> <!—->
<!—-> <!—->
I have a stair case that goes to my (finished) basement that is (cheap) carpet covered MDF tread and stringers. Either side is lined with drywall. I, ok my wife, wants me to replace those with hardwood stairs.<!—-><!—->
<!—-> <!—->
I have purchased the stairs and risers already, and I’m in the process of applying Minwax polyurethane for floors on it. (2 coats on backsides, 3 on front sides).<!—-> <!—->
<!—-> <!—->
My plan is to use a sawzall to remove the treads and risers, and somehow attach the new hardwood stairs parts to the existing risers <!—-><!—->
<!—-> <!—-><!—-> <!—->
What would be the best way to do that?<!—-> <!—->
<!—-> <!—->
Finishing nails and Pl construction adhesive? Screws and plugs? <!—-> <!—->
<!—-> <!—->
Does the riser sit on top of the tread? Or does the tread butt up against the riser?<!—-> <!—->
<!—-> <!—->
Any other tips would be greatly appreciated<!—-> <!—->
<!—-> <!—->
Thanks<!—-><!—->
<!—-> <!—->
Paul
Replies
Have you considered leaving the existing treads in place for extra stiffness?
Leaving the existing treads in place will probably lead to height issues with the finished floors. PL premium, shims to correct any deviation in the stringers, and finish nails would be my thought. I installed mine that way 12 years ago and no squeaks yet.
yes i have, but the existing MDF stairs have bull-noses :-(
it would also affect the rise/run on the bottom and top steps.
Paul
Good construction adhesive & finish nails will work fine, shims as needed to get everything tight & level.
I butt the tread into the face of the riser & screw them together from the back. Backbevel the back of your treads a degree or two to get a tight fit at this joint.
Start at bottom of stairs & install first two risers, then the first tread. Alternate tread & riser installation as you work your way up.
Scribe treads & risers real carefully to fit between skirts. Ideally, you use an adjustable template to mark your treads & risers. Sneak up to your scribe line with a sliding miter saw & fine tune the fit with a belt sander. Take your time here - a tread that is cut to short will look like ****, and a tread that is too long will spread the skirts apart and open up the skirt/riser joint. For this reason, on overlay stairs, I actually install the risers first, then notch the skirt around them.
Good luck,
Mike
thanks for the good advise. just a couple of question to clarify
1) screws from the back side of the riser into the tread. what type/size do you recommend? i assume pre drilling is a must on this. my stairs are 36", can i assume 3 per is enough?
2) I will use a PL permium glue on the stringers to hold the backside of the risers and treads. should i use some on the back edge of the tread to lower front side of the riser? what about the top edge of the riser to under side of the tread?
3) how long of a fishing nail should i use? the tread is 1" thick. and where/how many should i place them
4) back beveling: Great idea! since it is only a 1 or 2 degrees i need i'll (carefully) hit the treads with a sander.
Thanks for the great info
Paul
thanks for the good advise. just a couple of question to clarify
1) screws from the back side of the riser into the tread. what type/size do you recommend? i assume pre drilling is a must on this. my stairs are 36", can i assume 3 per is enough?
*I use a #9 x 1 1/2 or 2" GRK torx head screw. Predrill the riser and the grk's will sink right into the tread every time without snapping. Also, I don't shim or nail the riser to the middle stringer until the tread is secured down - then you can shim it snug up to the tread if there is a little bow in the riser.
2) I will use a PL permium glue on the stringers to hold the backside of the risers and treads. should i use some on the back edge of the tread to lower front side of the riser? what about the top edge of the riser to under side of the tread?
*Yes, but just a thin little bead on the back of the tread - you don't want squeeze-out here. I put some on the top of the riser also - a bit of glue squeeze out here can be cut away after it dries and will be covered by the cove or scotia molding under the tread.
3) how long of a fishing nail should i use? the tread is 1" thick. and where/how many should i place them
*2 or 2 1/2" is fine. Usually two per stringer, front & back of the tread.
4) back beveling: Great idea! since it is only a 1 or 2 degrees i need i'll (carefully) hit the treads with a sander
* The belt sander will work, otherwise if you haven't ripped your treads to width yet, just set the table saw at a little bevel.
Have fun!!
Mike