Replies

1. 
   Guest_ | Oct 01, 2000 05:09am | #1

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   I am not a pro painter; in fact, I'm not even a very good amateur; so, I ask these kinds of questions a lot. I've asked in paint stores, the former painters at HD and Lansing, local painters, the manufacturers' reps when I catch them in a store, phoned the manufacturers' help-lines, and visited their websites. Here's the net:

   1) Pro's use mostly oil from the time they start, know it well, and can make it look good (at least through the billing period).

   2) All the evidence says that the newer high-quality latex formulations are every bit as good as oil (this probably was not true just a few years back).

   3) Latex is more forgiving than oil; and, more things can wrong with oil. Oil is far more sensitive to preparation problems.

   4) And I love this one. So many things get screwed up or missed among cleaning, sanding, scraping, humidity, moisture control, sealing, temperature during application, direct sunlight during drying, and coating thickness, that the actual paint never gets a chance.

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   Guest_ | Oct 01, 2000 05:28am | #2

   *As was well documented and illustrated in a previous FHB issue, paint most often peels off from moisture in the wood behind the paint, regardless of the type of paint used. This can be either moisture from a home's interior, as when a whole wall of siding peels, or from improper or missing flashing and sealing, as with trim pieces. I would first ensure that no moisture is allowed to get behind the trim before I started a latex versus oil dispute. Either will adhere satisfactorily if the foundation is sound and dry and properly prepared. The differences between them lies in other areas.

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   Guest_ | Oct 01, 2000 10:11pm | #3

   *Cabot has a paint with Teflon called "The Finish." It bonds well to most surfaces. Before using it or any other product borrow a moisture meter from a fellow woodworker. If you have a moisture problem the meter will let you know. Take a reading from trim that has no problems. Now take a reading off the window trim that is peeling. A slight difference is okay but anything more and it is time to find out what is causing the moisture problem.

1. 
   Guest_ | Oct 02, 2000 01:20am | #4

   *"priming baloney" ?! if that's the attitude toward priming, just maybe it's one of the problems (with moisture behind the paint, mentioned above, being the most likely)I'm just an amateur painter, but as a test I've painted weathered & unweathered wood, bare & previously painted, and allowed it to sit outdoors (southwesterly exposure) for a year. Also did "tape peel off" test for adhesion of the finish top coat.IMHO, if the wood is weathered or previously painted, a quality alkyd primer is best, then coated preferably w/ latex topcoat. I suppose of the wood is new, or sanded completely down to fresh bare wood, then Latex primer is preferred.

1. 
   Guest_ | Oct 02, 2000 05:46pm | #5

   *What do you have for a finish on the interior of the windows and are all edges painted? Were the windows ever treated with a wood preservative by the painters- many contain parafins; paint will not adhere well. Mill glaze can be a problem; the shiny surace fom planing can cause adhesion problems; I sand all new wood. Just a few ideas for you .....I suspect your problems are not with the paint but are moisture and/or prep problems.

2. 
   Kevin_Getchell | Oct 02, 2000 06:40pm | #6

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   A good paint job is 50% Materials, 50% Prep and 50% skill of the painter...

   Thought this was a good time for a Yogi-ism!!!

   Seriously, I've had the best luck so far using an oil base primer and good latex paint on top. I'm not a pro...just my observation.

   Also, I am firm believer that prep work is the larger part of a good job.
   Hope this helps!

3. 
   Beatrice_Dohrn | Oct 02, 2000 06:40pm | #7

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   OK you paint professionals, please help me out here. I have a rustic place I built myself. About 5 years ago the wood on my windows was losing its paint, and I was short on time, so I had my favorite handy person do a paint job. He said that the undue peeling was because I had used latex paint. He scraped, primed, re coated with oil based paint (pittsburgh) . Now, more peeling, so I hire a new guy (after giving handy person every chance at the job, btw) and give him the paint I have. He didn't use it, he scraped some and re coated with one coat of latex that he went and got (sherwin William) . He claims its the better stuff, but I have a feeling it's the ease of clean up, more than the durability of the job, that drove him. If I want to go back to oil, I'll have to do the whole priming baloney again. Have I been had? Opinions please
   He swears he guarantees that I won't have a problem....