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Help with Sill Plates

William3 | Posted in Construction Techniques on September 30, 2005 02:49am

Hi all,

 

I am a contractor who has been called into repair prior mistakes on an addition. The major problem that we found was that the foundation was out of level by 2″ over a 16′ span… What is the best way to deal with this… One thought was to lift the sill and pack it with non-shrink grout… the other was to leave it and install large rim joist and jhang the floor joist from them.

 

Any other thoughts??

 

Thanks

Reply

Replies

  1. FastEddie | Sep 30, 2005 03:21am | #1

    What stage is the construction?  Sounds like the framing has not started yet.

     

     

    "When asked if you can do something, tell'em "Why certainly I can", then get busy and find a way to do it."  T. Roosevelt

    1. William3 | Sep 30, 2005 03:43am | #3

      That is correct... the home owner was trying to GC the job and quickly got iover their head... We came in to start the framing and found this problem when we tried to sart to install the joists...

      1. Davo | Sep 30, 2005 08:59am | #5

        Two inches out of level in just 16 feet?!  The Homeowner/GC was more than just in over his head....HE WAS BLIND!

        1. DanH | Sep 30, 2005 01:26pm | #6

          On a sloped site it's quite easy to be off that much and not "see" it. My next door neighbor did an addition where the foundation was off about that much, due to a bad transit. (Always move the transit and double-check.)

  2. Piffin | Sep 30, 2005 03:27am | #2

    So - I have to presume from your optionsa considered that they are not finished and moved into it yet???

    I Would probably opt for the latter of the choices, with shims under each joist and the rim taper cut to level onto the existing sill - if the sill slopes down away from the main house.

    but all that still depends on why this has occoured. has the foundation settled into disturbed soil after it was poured or is it clear that no attempt was made to pout the top of the wall level? It is important to know exactl;y why this condition exists or it may continue to get worse, and you will have put a band-aid over a broken bone that still needs to be seet right.

     

     

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  3. User avater
    Dinosaur | Sep 30, 2005 06:07am | #4

    If indeed you have not started framing, then you will probably be better off to shim the sole plates level. Use solid 2x ripped to the proper slope, and stack two or three of these long wedges side-by-side (to the width of the plates) with PL premium squirted in between them to hold 'em together. That will give you a solid top surface that fairs into the concrete and make installing your plates no more trouble than usual.

    I think this would be easier than the other option you mentioned, which is essentially what we have to do when we build a deck on sleepers over a flat roof (a flat roof would have a bit less slope than your out-of-level foundation, LOL).

    I base this advice on your description of the situation, which does make it sound more likely that this is caused by a bad job of troweling the pour. But do note that Piffin's question is important. If it turns out that the foundation is out of level because it's settling (not enough footing width, no compacting, bad soil, whatever), you'd better find that out now rather than later....

    Dinosaur

    A day may come when the courage of men fails,when we forsake our friends and break all bonds of fellowship...

    But it is not this day.

  4. blue_eyed_devil | Oct 01, 2005 12:02am | #7

    William, your grout idea would make it look good, assuming you do a nice job.

    I'd probably order 200 pounds of shims and jam steel under every joist, under the sill plate, then pack it with mortar or foam or grout.

    I've had to shim a lot of foundations in my days...and I think I do remember one that was 2" out.

    blue

     

  5. GOLDENBOY | Oct 01, 2005 03:00am | #8

    I was once faced with a similar problem, though not 2" out of level.  What I did was to form the top of the wall with 2x4.  I pinned them to the existing concrete with powder actuated nails.  Then used SIKA 212 grout.  If anchor bolts are not long eneough, you might extend them with the coupling nuts used for all-thread rod.

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