Replies

1. 
   Sphere | May 07, 2005 06:05pm | #1

   I don't suggest it or agree.

   drill with a 5/32 bit and use Stainless trim head screws.

   been there, done that.

    

   Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks

   Tommy, can you hear me?

    

    

    

   Why look here?

1. 
   fedo84 | May 07, 2005 06:15pm | #3

   thanks for replying. but why wouldn't you use it? is it too labor instensive, not a stong system or what? i'm trying not to have any visible fasteners on the deck.,

1. 
   theslateman | May 07, 2005 06:46pm | #4

   I used them 6 years ago on my deck.They work extremely well,and I love having no exposed fasteners.

   It does take some time to biscuit out the slots but the end result is more than worth the few extra hours in the construction phase.You'll live with it for years and be glad you did it each time you walk on it.

2. 
   Sphere | May 07, 2005 07:00pm | #6

   I guess it is a personal thing...if ya have a deck, fastners are a part of it. Visually, we are used to seeing them..why hide the skill used to attach the decking?

   Well done fastners is much more appealing in my mind, than an "invisible" method.

   Just my outlook..not right , not wrong..when folks try to hide joinery, it seems outta place....I prefer to show it off as a sign of quality that can be inspected..but, hey, thats me. 

   Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks

   Tommy, can you hear me?

    

    

    

   Why look here?

2. 
   DDay | May 07, 2005 06:10pm | #2

   Since your new, welcome.

   Here's a quick link for you 44478.1 but also over to the left at the top of the threads is an advanced search option.  Do a search for ipe, eb ty and you'll find a number of threads that will give you plenty of info.  Also, up above is the different forums, knots (woodworking), etc.

   I used ipe and eb ty for a 8 x 24 deck last year.  It looks beautiful and very clean, no visible fasteners.  Whatever you were told, the eb ty with ipe is not difficult but it does take more time than using stainless ring shanks.  I used a biscuit cutter to cut the slots but I've heard from others that use a router.  The wood is extremely dense and heavy and the process will take a little to get use to, so be prepared for some extra time.  For the finish I used penofin (http://www.penofin.com) marine finish, another is messmers.  Also, mcfeely's (http://www.mcfeelys.com) is suppose to have one of the best prices on eb ty's.  The real pain is the stainless screws with the eb ty, they are soft and can strip out easily.  Also I couldn't get my circ to make clean cuts without splinttering, I need to use a miter box which is a pain with longer pieces.

   Also, be prepared to deal with the density.  I did another deck with ipe with stainless ring nails and broke at least 8 drill bits pre-drilling that stuff.  The bits get so hot they snap easily.  That deck was 16x32 and in direct sun all day, so I didn't want the extra time the eb ty would have required.

    

    

   
   

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   Edited 5/7/2005 11:19 am ET by DDay

1. 
   fedo84 | May 07, 2005 06:57pm | #5

   thanks for taking the time to reply. the links were very helpfull

3. 
   ProDek | May 07, 2005 07:22pm | #7

   Mike17

   Eb-Ty fasteners work fine for a do-it-yourselfer.

   It takes twice as long as surface fastening which needs to be pre-drilled, and as others have mentioned the stainless fasteners can be a real pain because when the heads strip out you have to remove the screw.

   The problems incurred with Eb-ty hidden fasteners is once you have installed one side (run) lining up the next run, even though they are marked and jointed in the exact same spot, is difficult because the fasteners have a tendency to tip up or down and  they have to fit tightly into the slot or your deck will be uneven. 

   What ever you do, do not glue or nail this wood. The glue will not hold do to the oil in the wood, and nails will split the wood.

   You have to apply a wax sealer on every cut you make on ipe or the ends will split.

   Once it is down IPE will crack, split , and cup, as the oil leaves the wood. It will look  like dried teak but with more cracks unless you seal it every three months with Penofin.

   Sorry, but I'm not sold on the hard wood products from other counties. The go down looking good but they don't keep that appearance very long.

   I've been installing more composites than wood lately, and they are looking more attractive every year.

   Are you aware that Trex make a composite  that looks like IPE?

   Check it out before you plunge into this project. 

   "Rather be a hammer than a nail"

   Bob

4. 
   AndrewG | May 10, 2005 11:26pm | #8

   Hey Mike,

    

   I worked on a project last fall that is currently under construction. It is a large project with LOTS of decking, all IPE. I downloaded all concealed fasteners written up in the Journal of Light Construction and reviewed with others on the design team, the engineers and the Contractor. The end result.....Eb-Ty. Why? We had done another project last year using IPE decking,  pre-drilling every nail hole and the labor nearly killed both the sub and the owner. That, and the VERY important fact that Eb-TY lets the wood move, as it always must.

   You can buy the wood pre-slotted from the retailer and so it fastens in a real hurry and it looks beautiful. What you have to plan for is an edging board that is NOT preslotted to head-off the ends of the pre-slotted boards.

    

   BTW, don't even try to finish it. The wood is SO dense there's not a product out there that won't sit forever on the surface, an ugly, gooey mess.

   Good Luck,

    

   Andrew Gil

   Architect/ Builder

1. 
   AndrewG | May 17, 2005 12:07am | #9

   Follow-up, this from a supplier's website:

    

    Finishing & Maintenance:

   No finish is required. Ipe tiles weather to a silver grey. If the wood appearance is desired, simply powerwash to renew.