I’m building a screen porch that is going to have an open rafter design, similar to the “Builders Screen Porch” in the Taunton’s book “Building Porches and Decks”.
Since I have only done conventional framing were all the nails get coved by something, I’m lost at how this type of open framing hides its fasteners.
In the book the the builder sandwiches a 2×6 between two 2×10’s to create the primary rafters, how would these be attached to each other and to the ridge board and not see all the nail heads? Are finish nails or screws used everywhere? Or is seeing all the nails part of this type of framing?
Also in the article he mentions the use of long screws to attach the 2×4 purlins to the rafters, how are those hidden?
Thanks
Replies
For exposed (painted) rafter construction, upgrade to #1 select structural D Fir - you should be able to find 3 x 6, 3 x 8 etc. for the main rafters. Purlins can be mortised into the rafters 3/4" of an inch or so ... maybe use a Kreg jig, pocket screws and pocket screw plugs .... I think I'm going to get flamed ....
Jeff
I think I'm going to get flamed ....
NOooooo, not on BT.
I'm not going to do it because I dont know the answer to the question.
Doug
I can't think of the name at the moment, but there is a company that sells a countersink system that will also dig out a place to put a premade "patch" - made of real wood - right over the screw or nail head. It can be stained and painted.Rebuilding my home in Cypress, CA
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If your hair looks funny, it's because God likes to scratch his nuts. You nut, you.
Paul - http://www.woodcraft.com/family.aspx?familyid=20152 (among many)
Jeff
No, I was thinking about that company that is at all the shows. They have the huge variety of tape measures and other cool gadgets. I'm away from home right now so I can't figure out the name.Rebuilding my home in Cypress, CA
Also a CRX fanatic!
If your hair looks funny, it's because God likes to scratch his nuts. You nut, you.
Could it be, Fastcap? Try, askus#fastcap.com3725 Irongate Road, Suite 105
Bellingham, WA 98226
888/443-3748Hope this is the one you are seeking.Yomone
http://www.fastcap.com/prod2.asp?page=drillbits
Thank you, that was the company I was trying to think of.Rebuilding my home in Cypress, CA
Also a CRX fanatic!
If your hair looks funny, it's because God likes to scratch his nuts. You nut, you.
I have a Fastcap took kit (punch, countersink, powerhead screws, etc.) and like it very much, but it's for finish cabinetry not rough carpentry.
Jeff
Edited 10/8/2007 5:53 pm ET by Jeff_Clarke
The countersink and related hiding patches give him a wide variety of choices for his finished work.
"it's for cabinetry not carpentry"... so how exeactly will it not work?Rebuilding my home in Cypress, CA
Also a CRX fanatic!
If your hair looks funny, it's because God likes to scratch his nuts. You nut, you.
Screws must go in at 90 degrees to the surface and be countersunk for the application of punched adhesive-veneer covers. Recommended application is for pocket screws and plugs which go in at a significant angle.
Jeff
From the OP:
There is nothing here that demands the use of pocket screws. In fact, making board sandwiches like this pretty much demands fasteners at 90 degrees. Plus, if needed you can use the countersink tool to make the initial press on depression, then us a conventional countersink to make an angled hole within the area of the disk bore.Rebuilding my home in Cypress, CA
Also a CRX fanatic!
If your hair looks funny, it's because God likes to scratch his nuts. You nut, you.
You're right - if he does it the way the book illustrates. Fastcap IS, however, designed to use Powerhead screws which are specifically for holding cabinets to walls.
My reaction, in part, is from extensive experience with the historical method of doing porches with purlins and rafters, where there are solid rafters, usually 3 x 8 or so, and solid purlins the other way, usually mortised over the rafters, with no visible fasteners except nails.
I was really thinking in terms of attaching solid purlins to solid rafters - probably not what he wants to do.
To me, the 'sandwich' thing says 'contemporary' which is fine. I just tend to think in terms of the way the exposed-rafter-porch thing was done for hundreds of years.
Jeff
Edited 10/8/2007 6:01 pm ET by Jeff_Clarke
Jeff,
I like the idea of the mortising to hide the joints (or my poor cutting) and I agree with you about the pocket screws for at least the connection in close visual range.
Kwik
It sounds like you are asking, " how do I fasten three hunks of wood togetherr to make them look like one bigger hunk of wood without seeing any fasteners.
is there a reason for not just using one bigger hunk of wood? buy a 4x 10 or whatever sizing is needed.
but if I had to do whaat you suggest and the goal was to see no heads, I'd use same method as my stairs. Countersink and glue plugs in over the heads. shave and sand
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Piffin,
The reason I'm not using larger beams is; my wife and I (both 50) along with her father (78) like doing our own home projects when we think we can handle it.
When I saw the way this porch roof was built I decided we could do this without any real heavy lifting. By building the roof structure in place one board at a time it would still giving us that bigger timber look. So far, the eight 6x6 posts we installed to support the porch deck and roof has shown us our muscle limit.
I am not opposed to seeing some fasteners, but was looking for ideas to minimize and hide as many as I can.
Kwik
Another option would be to countersink the screws and use mushropom plugs to bung over the heads, That would give you a hand pegged timber look effect.
Welcome to the Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime. where ... Excellence is its own reward!
I think you are talking about a bastard hip. An 8:12 intersecting with a 12:12.
My advice: Read the Bible!
View Image
Pg. 138: Hip Backing Bevel of 8:12 side = 18 degrees, Hipe Backing bevel of 12:12 side = 36 degrees.
You will also need a 1/4" hip drop (bevel the hip rafter) on the 8:12 side and a 5/8" hip drop on the 12:12 side.
http://www.amazon.com/Roof-Framers-Bible-Complete-Reference/dp/0964335433/ref=pd_bbs_sr_1/105-2720840-3395637?ie=UTF8&s=books&qid=1191627740&sr=8-1
I was thinking you could just go with the flow and plan on seeing the screw heads and put them in in a pattern (or at least try to keep them approximately a certain distance apart or whatever) and go with colored heads--maybe in a contrasting color or something.
Thanks to all.
I'm glad I wasn't just missing something obvious or very simple. I do like the simplicity of pattering the screws and also the button caps for a real finished design.
We started working today on the laying out the rafters and ridge, so a decision will need to be coming soon.
Some day between all our projects I will post some pictures of all our remolding, but right now its back to finishing the porch so we can finish the Hardie siding on the new addition, so we can finish the inside of the addition, so we can finish all the new windows, and so on.
I keep telling my wife, we are now in the fourth year of a ten year project, so it should be ready about the time we retire. Ha Ha Ha is all I get.
With out this site and all you guys I'd be lost.
Kwik
Could paint them flat black before driving.Rebuilding my home in Cypress, CA
Also a CRX fanatic!
If your hair looks funny, it's because God likes to scratch his nuts. You nut, you.