I want to frame frame a 7/12 hip with a 16′ ridge, 12′ span.2×8 rafters, 2×10 ridge and hip. The 2×6 plate line is 12′ with baloon framed joists at 9′. to create a 16′ x 24′ loft over a center bearing wall. Collar ties will be 54″ above the plate line. a 4×4 will support the ends of the ridge The ends of the bldg. will be cathedral.
What’s the best way to tie the ends of the hip?
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pitures?
Could you reframe the Question?
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Are you worried about the thrust out on the bottoms of the hips? If you are, don't worry about this. The combination of the hips, hip jacks and sheathing will make this part of the roof very stable. You should also have no problems with the common rafter portion of the roof. The spans are relatively short, the balloon framing will take up much of the outward thrust of the rafters, the collar ties are low enough to help as well and the rigde board will also help. While none of these factors is perfect, the combination is more than adequate.
Thanx for the reply. CABO 1&2 rafter tables want a ridge beam and 2 x 12s 16 OC. Maybe the roof design should be stamped but this is basically a workshop/pool house.
I think the owner would agree to ####double rafter tie at the king commons to hang a ceiling fan.
you want to make sure that you properly support the ridge from underneath where the hips meet untill you have the roof completely finished including nailing of sheeting.
like shell said it wont go anywhere once it is nailed but as you are building with the load of lumber and men working it could push out on the corners as it sinks at the peak. this roof will not need collar ties, once complete it is self supporting
i think the best way to deal with this is just to support ridge at hips, but if your a belt and suspenders type of guy you could also brace and cable or clamp walls as well, long pipe clamps or come alongs. i would certainly shear and nail walls before constructing roof also.
We will brace and sheath the walls before setting the ridge.The saw man wants to cut all of the comons and king commons and push/pull the walls as needed. We use come alongs.and thrust braces. We are still thinking about venting the hip ends by notching the tops of the jack rafters.but want to vent it to the ridge vent.This is in a Histericol district . Frieze board notched, exposed rafter ends with 21/2" bed mold held down 1" for a screend inlet. The 3/8 t+g bead board will be direct on the rafters. we will rip the hips to match the plumb cuts. This is a warm climate roof (west central Georgia) and are very concerned about venting the roof structure.( unfaced R-19 above the bead board) Thanx for any tips on not trapping any moist, hot air)
I have the same pitch we're going to frame tomorrw
Please post more deails and or pic
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