I am ready to frame my 8×12 shed. The foundation is built and the decking is in place.
A couple of years ago, before I knew less than I know now (which is not much), I bought the Hitachi NV75AG as an all around nailer, including the idea that 3″ nails should be ok for framing sheds and outbuildings. The max nail size of this Hitachi is 3″.
My understanding is that if I am using 2×4 material for my shed framing, then I should be using nails that are at least twice the size of the material (1.5 x 2=3), but 3 1/4 to 3 1/2 is “standard” in framing.
Is the 3″ nail size of the Hitachi NV75ag sufficient for framing a shed/outbuilding? (would it be any different if it was a small house?)
Should I buy another framing nailer that shoots longer nails that will also work for other outbuilding projects I have planned for the future?
Or, Can I just shoot more nails using the NV75Ag?
I have a good hammer, but an aging arm….
Thanks
JR
Replies
toe the studs to the plates and get a new gun just the same..
Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming
WOW!!! What a Ride!
Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!
no problem. just try to shoot 3 nails into each stud
I used the same gun and 3" nails to build a shed last Spring. Hasn't blown away or fallen down yet. Toe nail the studs like others said, and use glue on the sheathing.
I did use the NV75AG to build a small 3x6 tool shed a few months ago. Seems to be doing fine through some high winds and rough weather. My current 8x12 shed project is one I am using to teach myself something about building. I am taking a framing class at a local JR college at the same time, so that helps some.I am trying to build this the way a small house would be built. It seems that the 3" nails are ok if I toenail them, but would an inspector pass this if I needed a permit, which I don't because of my local codes.Just trying to learn both what will work and the "best practices" in framing.Thanks,
JR
My shed project didn't need a framing inspection either - the codes here allow up to 200SF with no permit. I built the walls flat and shot two nails in each stud through the top and bottom plates and then toe-nailed after the walls were up and square.
Most framers in upstate NY now frame with 3" . like i said before frame the wall on the ground with 3 nails per stud and you will be fine.
Thanks for the reply ... this is a confusing issue for me. Here is where I get stuck: a 16d nail should be about 31/2" long with a diameter of .162. I thought this was supposed to be the standard for a variety of stud/top plate/ etc... nailing. Then I found a reference to ESR-1539 which has more information about nailing standards. If I interpret ESR 1539 correctly, then, for example, I should use 2 16d .162 nails to secure a top plate to a stud OR I can use 3 3" .131 diameter nails instead. If I am securing a stud to a sole/bottom plate, then I can toenail 3 16d(31/2x.162) or 4 3" .131, which I think is a 10d?There seem to be a few guns that shoot 16d (3 1/2 x .162) nails, but it is harder to find that I thought. For example, a common gun where I live is the Hitachi NR83A that shoots up to 3 1/4 x .131 nails. The Hitachi NR90A does shoot 3 1/2 x .162 nails, but this is not one of those guns that is as common as the NR83A. So, I guess my point is that for me this is more complicated than i thought when i first bought what I thought was a reasonable all around nailer. I think I made a good choice, but I needed more information in order to understand how to use it and what the nailing schedule should be for this type of nailer.Thanks again,
JR
We had an inspector put a caliper on our hand framing nails. He said they weren't big/long enough. We were hand nailing with sinkers and he wanted us to use commons. He was gone shortly after that. He didn't work for the city. The company that owned a bunch of hospitals we were remodeling hired him to keep us on our toes.
I understand how you want to do it right but sometimes common sense will work just fine. If you are framing once in a while for yourself I wouldn't get another gun. But it's your money. If anything most framers put in to many nails. Especially with guns.
Knowing how things should be framed is useful for me. Since I come to this with little to no experience in framing or carpentry, having a starting point for problem solving helps and how things should be done is my starting point.For now I will use a hammer to frame the shed project and the gun for sheathing. If my arm gets tired, I will rest..... Thanks ...
If you are doing the occasional framing, the gun will be fine.
I used the gun for full time framing a couple of years ago and it blew the exhaust cap off. I think its a decent gun for the light framing, not full time