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I needed to hog out some wood the other day and went to the tool store to buy one of the blades to fit on a 4 1/2″ grinder to rough cut wood (some I had seen had what appeared to be a chain saw blade wrapped around a steel disk, others had more aggressive blades). The owner of the tool store said that these were no longer available – too many people chopping themselves up with them. Anyone have the story on this. What is your favorite tool for hogging out a dished depression in a piece of timber?
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We used to make bowls on the job by swiping a skil saw side to side. I've heard those little chainsaw blades for grinders do a good job. Safety is an issue here!
*It's as you describe, and one Oz firm that makes them is Arbortech. There's a big version, and a mini version. If you are really stuck, this Houston supplier would surely send you one.http://www.cuttingedgetools.com I'm hoping this will show up as one of those blue underlined easy link deals. If not, you'll just have to type it yourself. But there will surely be someone nearer to you that will supply?
*Casey, I'm surprised at you. There you are up in the GNW and you don't have an adze! No wonder you have to succumb to asking this on Breaktime; any logger up there would cut you down just with his glare. Really.I use a flat bladed adze on a 38" handle for larger work and a smaller sized head mounted on a 20" handle for small, close in work. For smaller work, I have been known to dog a small split log 'tween two wood dowels to make a bowl or trough. Larger work could run from planing smooth rafter tails overhead to making scarfs or rabbets for an extra long truss.Sorry for the run-on, but once you figure out the beast an adze is fast, accurate and cheap.
*I do own an adze - someplace, but as I remember it is about 8" wide and would hog out a cylinder of that length, but doing a dish would take a lot more skill than I could muster. (However, now that you mention it, I do have this garden weeder that looks like a little adze and is only about 2" wide, if I sharpen it...). I also have a 1.5" spoon gouge that would probably do the trick. I was going to try just using a grinder disk and see if whether that did the job without scorching the wood too much. And, as mentioned above, I could undoubtedly do the job with my Porter Cable 4 1/2" trim saw, but I was wondering what the optimal solution was found to be by those experienced in such things and just how hazardous those "chain saw wrapped around a disk thingies" really were. If those things grab like a chain saw when the end of the bar catches, I would be leery of using it. I have seen "chain saw artists" touch up parts of their scultures using the end of their chain saw blades, but I don't quite have the touch to avoid the kickback and would like to keep all of my limbs for as long as possible...
*The Arbortech won't give you a grab problem, so long as you use some nous, of course!. I use it for roughing out chair seats. It fits a mini grinder. I highly recommend you install the plastic blade guard though. It's adjustable to 'control' your depth of cut. Set the guard high, and you can cut pretty much as you like, but this guard does keep you away from the top of the blade. Buy a 6 mm (1/4") round file to resharpen whilst you're at it, if you decide to go this way. As mentioned in another post(s?) an adze would work fine too, along with inshaves, scorps, drawknives, travishers, scrapers, spokeshaves, rasps, and abrasive paper. I still use many of these tools for chair seats anyway, but the Arbortech is very handy too.
*Hey Casey, Just swing by the Tool Peddler on 82nd Ave; just North of Clackamas Town Center(intersection of 82nd and Otty Road). Call them at 777-tool if you want to confirm they have the right 1 for your grinder. They do stock those wood hoggers.Joe