I’m doing some remodeling (running new electric circuits) and I need a new drill. I’m going for a Milwaulkee but not sure if it should be the Hole hog or a right angle drill.
Extent of drilling will be studs and joists in a victorian. Will take on a small number of side jobs also.
I know the HH costs more than RA and weights that bit more.
Monty
Replies
I have the RA drill and use it with augers, hole saws, and self feed bits. The largest self-feed I have is 3-5/8" and this drill drives it no problem thru 2x doug fir. If I was doing nothing but drilling large holes for plumbing I would get a Hawg also, but for what I do the lighter weight and the adjustable chuck angle of the RA is perfect. It easily has enough torque to break your wrist or knock you off a ladder if you are not careful. I got mine as a recon, can't remember where since it was about 10 years ago.
I've got the RA and it's got a longer moment arm that has saved my bacon more than once. That means when the 3 1/2 auger bit binds it stands less of a chance of pulling your arm out of it's socket. When in doubt, prop the handle of the angle drill against a solid object, like a stud or post, prior to starting the drill. The HH might get into one or two tighter locations but I'd just as soon work around the minor inconvenience vs. breaking my arm off and having my shoulder in a sling for a month or two.
I have both...
the HH will break yur arms if yur not careful...
get a magnum with the right angle kit...
Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming
WOW!!! What a Ride!
Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!
I have a magnum with the RAD on it. More than enough power for what I do. But never tried over 2 1/8 self feed bits in it. No problem with any hole saw, but I bound one up and permanently injured my thumb from the kickback.
big self feeds - no problemo...
keep in mind there are a lot of different shaft RPM outputs..
Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming<!----><!----><!---->
WOW!!! What a Ride!<!----><!---->
Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!
850 rpm magnum drill with low output on the RAD. Turns pretty slow, but plenty torque.
make a mistake and get the 600 RPM model...
for entertainment let the help use the 115/450 (2 speesd) compact...
that sucker will turn over a WWII bomber's radial engine..
Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming<!----><!----><!---->
WOW!!! What a Ride!<!----><!---->
Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!
I thought the HH and other heavy duty drills like this have a built in clutch so it wouldn't hurt you if it bound up. Is this just a joke of a feature, or are your drills too old to have this?Rebuilding my home in Cypress, CA
Also a CRX fanatic!
way too old... close to a 30 year age average...
I fear that 600RPM...
I don't use that 115/450 at all... I let others have all the fun...
Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming<!----><!----><!---->
WOW!!! What a Ride!<!----><!---->
Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!
Edited 11/30/2006 6:27 pm by IMERC
I have the hole hawg. No clutch, but you can screw 1" steel pipe in the side of it to make a handle as long as you want. Or, for access, you can use it without the pipe.
-- J.S.
The "newer" DeWalt heavy duty right angle drills have a clutch feature and it works. I think it has been standard for the last few years or so.
My Milwaukee D Handle RAD does not. I do not have the "super" version which might have the clutch mechanisim.
I have found that using a Milwaukee 12" long 1/2" self feed bit extension does a lot to absorb enough of the twisting motion to help prevent injury if the drill can't be braced well. It gives an instant of additional reaction time.
My Makita RA drill has a clutch too. I have only had the drill bind and pop the clutch when I was using a 6" hole saw.
I'd go with the RA. I've had 2 Hole Hawgs break on me. Both times it happened when the bit bound up. There's no clutch, so the gear just popped.
I went with Milwaukee's RA with the variable speed - if it binds, it just slows down the motor.
Either way, make sure you brace the drill properly against the framing so you don't break your arm. I got a black eye from the HH once when I didn't have it braced correctly.
The Milwaukee right-angle is more versatile. The angle head is reversible, so you get a high and a low range in speed. It is also removable so you end up with a beefy straight unit. It also will fit into low clearance areas. I have put mine through many tough tasks and it always did what I needed. Be careful with either unit, they'll turn you around if the bit binds.
I do low voltage wiring and have done rough-ins for electrical service with my 18V Milwaukee Hammer drill and boring bits, self-feeding bits and paddle bits. The paddle bits cut really fast and if you're drilling into a place where there may be something behind it that could be damaged (like other wiring, etc), I like the paddle bits because they won't pull the bit in farther once it breaks through. I have some stubby boring bits, too. Oddly enough, a cheap set of forstner bits isn't a bad thing to have because they cut well and once it has started, you can change direction for corner drilling. My 18V does really well with the 2-9/16" self-feed bits, too, unless it hits nails.
Like others have said, a RT angle is great, you have two gearings, and the option of dead on straight drilling as well. I have a DeWalt that will, WILL, break your arm.
If you intend to do studbay drilling and have any 45 degree bumpouts with a stack of cripples and kings..the rt angle will be the only way to hit it from both sides and meet in the middle...did I mention you can break an arm?
Go greenlee bits..nail eaters. Them damm framers ( except Dieselpig) like to load up on the pattern espes. in the hidden areas..they nail them 20 over what is needed, when the gun is hot and it is an easy target.
Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
I have irriatable Vowel syndrome.
Must be nice to have money to burn :D
I occasionally have to run wire through studs. I have found the $75 harbor Freight clone of the Hole Hawg to be perfectly adequate.
Irwin bits seem to have worked better for me than Magna. My Bosch bit is also excellent. Harbor Freight is also selling auger bits, but I have not tried them.
I have bits both 6" and 18" long. While I rarely wish for a longer bit, I often wish for a shorter one!
I store both the drill, and the bits, in a 20MM ammo can. Perfect fit.
Another vote for the RAD because of the versitility as others have pointed out. The Magnum is nice but almost the same price as the other RAD drills. They are a lifesaver. (and lighter than any HH) for ease of use as a straight drill. Also like that the head on a RAD can rotate 360 degrees for even more versatility and the ability to drill where no HH would ever fit.
Oh, Go with the Milwaukee!
The Super Hawg is great tool, brother twisted my arm to go haves with him on one, at least he thinks he did.
I have both. I like the hawg. I have hole saws up to 6 inch and its great for mixing compound
that reminds me, I wonder where the right angle is. I have'nt used it in years
I have a right angle and it's probably the most versitile big drill going. It will mix mud, drive big screws, put self feed bits through things it shouldn't and is so compact that it fits in crazy places.
With a 1" self-feed bit (about minimum to clear the extension diameter) and 48" of extensions we've run wires through framing the electrican just looked at and shook his head, saving half a day's work.
With a sharp 5-1/2" hole saw it goes through TJI webs ok for running bathroom vent insulated duct, but 5x faster than cutting them with a sawzall and much more professional looking.
I only wish I had bought the right angle drill before a big dewalt single speed for mixing mud and thinset. The RA would do that, and it has a variable speed trigger to boot!
Cheers.
Beer was created so carpenters wouldn't rule the world.
Thanks for all your great advise. Leaning towards the hole hog as I am working on a Victorian and expect to come across some serious joists etc.
Good deal on Amazon for a Bostitch palm Nailer, here is the link.
http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=amb_link_4032722_1/103-9084082-0720619?ie=UTF8&node=228013&sort=salesrank&keywords=AMZNTHWKND061201