FHB Logo Facebook LinkedIn Email Pinterest Twitter Instagram Plus Icon Close Icon Navigation Search Icon Navigation Search Icon Arrow Down Icon Video Guide Icon Article Guide Icon Modal Close Icon Guide Search Icon Skip to content
Subscribe
Log In
  • How-To
  • Design
  • Tools & Materials
  • Videos
  • Blogs
  • Forum
  • Magazine
  • Members
  • FHB House
  • Podcast
Log In

Discussion Forum

Discussion Forum

hot water heating

stemreno | Posted in Energy, Heating & Insulation on February 23, 2007 09:47am

Ths is a question to satisfy my curiosity.  Somebody who works with me had a client who complained that his new hot water “boiler” was using an exesive amount of    gas and not very effective at heating his house.  His old unit of 160000 btu’s was replaced wit a higher effiency 125000 btu unit, but he also replaced all his windows and insulated the house.  The first problem was that the unit would cycle on and off constantly, but the the pipes would not get hot until it stopped.  The circulating pump was replaced and this problem went away.  (My buddy and I thought the pump was running in reverse, because the only time the pipes got hot was when it stopped.)

Anyhow I would like to know for me, does the circulating pump run only when the burners are firing and stop as soon as the burner stops, or does it “hang on” for a while to circulate the hot water until it cools a bit, or does it run alll the time and the burners cycle as required to maintain a certain water temp.  Also, what should the water temp be in hot water heating system.

I will not be advising my friend’s client on this, just wanted to know for my own info.

 

stemreno

Reply

Replies

  1. BoJangles | Feb 23, 2007 10:35pm | #1

    The pump should be running as long as the thermostat is calling for heat ( in a normal system)  The boiler will reach its high limit shutoff temperature and will quit firing, but the thermostat could still be calling for heat..thus the pump keeps running until the room thermostat tells it to stop.  As long as the thermostat is calling for heat, the boiler will continue to cycle on & off between its upper and lower limits.

    In the old days, it was common to wire a boiler so it cycled constantly between the high and low limits regardless of what the thermostat was calling for.  The idea of this method was that you would always have hot boiler water available as soon as the thermostat called for heat and for a few other reasons.  Boilers were usually way oversized back then too. This method was considered to be wasteful in later years.

    Now the boiler won't fire unless the thermostat is calling for heat....but if it has been sitting there not firing for a long time, you will have cooler water circulating until the boiler comes up to temperature.  Boilers are holding less and less water nowadays, so the wait isn't as long as it used to be.

    Water temperature is usually around 170 to 180 with radiators.

    1. NRTRob | Feb 24, 2007 02:38am | #2

      BoJangles is right on, though I will note that very often, when I'm asked to look at the numbers for existing baseboard or radiator systems, very rarely do they really require 170 or 180. In fact, most of the time the downward limit is what the boiler can handle moreso than running out of output at the baseboard.But they are almost always set for 180 as a standard... probably beacause that is what they are rated for in all the sales lit.I'm not saying all systems can be turned down.. but I'm always surprised at how many can.-------------------------------------
      -=Northeast Radiant Technology=-
      Radiant Design, Consultation, Parts Supply
      http://www.NRTradiant.com

      1. BoJangles | Feb 24, 2007 04:54am | #3

        You make some good points about lowering the water temps.   For years, major manufacturers installed Honeywell aquastats that had a range of 180-220. 

        I can't tell you how many times I have wanted to lower the water temperature only to find that the aquastat installed on the boiler wouldn't allow it.

        All radiators are listed with a BTU/ft rating at different water temperatures.  If you know what the heat loss / output needs to be, there may be no point in running very hot water if you can accomplish the mission with lower temp water.

         

Log in or create an account to post a comment.

Sign up Log in

Become a member and get full access to FineHomebuilding.com

Video Shorts

Categories

  • Business
  • Code Questions
  • Construction Techniques
  • Energy, Heating & Insulation
  • General Discussion
  • Help/Work Wanted
  • Photo Gallery
  • Reader Classified
  • Tools for Home Building

Discussion Forum

Recent Posts and Replies

  • |
  • |
  • |
  • |
  • |
  • |
View More Create Post

Up Next

Video Shorts

Featured Story

Hole Saws That Are a Cut Above

The Spyder carbide-tipped hole saws cut quickly with a quick-release arbor that makes it easy to remove the core.

Featured Video

A Modern California Home Wrapped in Rockwool Insulation for Energy Efficiency and Fire Resistance

The designer and builder of the 2018 Fine Homebuilding House detail why they chose mineral-wool batts and high-density boards for all of their insulation needs.

Related Stories

  • Podcast 551: Power Tool Batteries, Building as a Third Career, and High DIY
  • Podcast 551: Members-only Aftershow—Badly-Built Homes
  • Podcast 550: PRO TALK With Carpentry Program Instructor Sandy Thistle and Graduate David Abreu
  • Podcast 549: Energy Upgrades, Chimney Inspections, and Questions About a Home You Might Buy

Highlights

Fine Homebuilding All Access
Fine Homebuilding Podcast
Tool Tech
Plus, get an extra 20% off with code GIFT20

"I have learned so much thanks to the searchable articles on the FHB website. I can confidently say that I expect to be a life-long subscriber." - M.K.

Get home building tips, offers, and expert advice in your inbox

Signing you up...

This site is protected by reCAPTCHA and the Google Privacy Policy and Terms of Service apply.
See all newsletters
See all newsletters

BOOKS, DVDs, & MERCH

Shop the Store
  • Code Check Building 4th Edition
    Buy Now
  • Pretty Good House
    Buy Now
  • 2023 Tool Guide
    Buy Now
  • 2022 Fine Homebuilding Archive
    Buy Now
  • Shop the Store

Fine Homebuilding Magazine

  • Issue 314 - April/May 2023
    • 7 Options for Countertops
    • Tool Test: Wood-Boring Bits
    • Critical Details for Ductless Heat Pumps
  • Issue 313 - Feb/March 2023
    • Practical System for a Seismic Retrofit
    • Fine Homebuilding Issue #313 Online Highlights
    • Practical System for a Seismic Retrofit
  • Issue 312 - Dec 2022/Jan 2023
    • Tool Test: Cordless Tablesaws
    • Gray-Water System for a Sustainable Home
    • Insulate a Cape Roof to Avoid Ice Dams
  • Issue 311 - November 2022
    • 7 Steps to a Perfect Exterior Paint Job
    • Options for Smarter Home-Energy Tracking
    • The Fine Homebuilding Interview: James Metoyer
  • Issue 310 - October 2022
    • Choosing a Tile-Leveling System
    • Choosing Between HRVs and ERVs
    • Custom Built-in Cabinets Made Easy

Fine Homebuilding

Follow

  • twitter
  • facebook
  • instagram
  • pinterest

Newsletter

Get home building tips, offers, and expert advice in your inbox

Signing you up...

This site is protected by reCAPTCHA and the Google Privacy Policy and Terms of Service apply.
See all newsletters
See all newsletters

Membership & Magazine

  • Online Archive
  • Start Free Trial
  • Magazine Subscription
  • Magazine Renewal
  • Gift a Subscription
  • Customer Support
  • Privacy Preferences

Taunton Network

  • Green Building Advisor
  • Fine Woodworking
  • Fine Gardening
  • Threads
  • About
  • Contact
  • Advertise
  • Careers
  • Copyright
  • Terms of Use
  • Site Map
  • Do not sell or share my information
  • Privacy Policy
  • Accessibility
  • California Privacy Rights

© 2023 The Taunton Press, Inc. All rights reserved.

X
X
This is a dialog window which overlays the main content of the page. The modal window is a 'site map' of the most critical areas of the site. Pressing the Escape (ESC) button will close the modal and bring you back to where you were on the page.

Main Menu

  • How-To
  • Design
  • Tools & Materials
  • Video
  • Blogs
  • Forum
  • Reader Projects
  • Magazine
  • Members
  • FHB House

Podcasts

  • FHB Podcast
  • ProTalk

Webinars

  • Upcoming and On-Demand

Podcasts

  • FHB Podcast
  • ProTalk

Webinars

  • Upcoming and On-Demand

Popular Topics

  • Kitchens
  • Business
  • Bedrooms
  • Roofs
  • Architecture and Design
  • Green Building
  • Decks
  • Framing
  • Safety
  • Remodeling
  • Bathrooms
  • Windows
  • Tilework
  • Ceilings
  • HVAC

Magazine

  • Current Issue
  • Past Issues
  • Magazine Index
  • Subscribe
  • Online Archive
  • Author Guidelines

All Access

  • Member Home
  • Start Free Trial
  • Gift Membership

Shop the Store

  • Books
  • DVDs
  • Taunton Workshops

More

  • FHB Ambassadors
  • Reader Projects
  • Podcast
  • FHB House
  • Customer Support

Account

  • Log In
  • Join

Newsletter

Get home building tips, offers, and expert advice in your inbox

Signing you up...

This site is protected by reCAPTCHA and the Google Privacy Policy and Terms of Service apply.
See all newsletters
See all newsletters

Follow

  • twitter
  • facebook
  • instagram
  • pinterest

Join All Access

Become a member and get instant access to thousands of videos, how-tos, tool reviews, and design features.

Start Your Free Trial

Subscribe

FHB Magazine

Start your subscription today and save up to 70%

Subscribe

We hope you’ve enjoyed your free articles. To keep reading, become a member today.

Get complete site access to expert advice, how-to videos, Code Check, and more, plus the print magazine.

Start your FREE trial

Already a member? Log in