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I envy you guys who can easily find a close supply of rough sawn dimensional lumber. In the old days rough sawn used to sell sometimes 20% less than finished lumber. Now its the same price or more; ’cause its a special order — unless you got small local sawmills. High volume mills are selling to bulk distributors these days and they get a better profit from finished lumber. Local lumber yards rarely even have a small direct mill supplying them. They are dependent upon the same large distributors as Home Depot; etc. That’s why they can’t compete in price — only service — but few of them have figured this out where I live.
Rough sawn lumber, if it is full dimension (i.e. a 2 X is actually a full 2″‘s and the width is also full dmension) are between 25% and 40% stronger than finished dimensioned planks. This means longer spans and increased OC spacing — tree species by species. This is a big additional savings except where you are 4’ dependent which is true for all sheating materials. For steel roofs and horizontally applied OSB or ply, you can get some economies. If your using lumber for decking (eg 5/4 stock), you have some additional spacing flexibility. There are lots of ways to skin the cat, particularly with sills, girders; etc.
You should check out the Post and Beam builders site (try searching it on your browser). These guys have good info and a forum on heavy timbers, rough sawn lumber grading; etc.
If your getting the exact same dimensions per board from your supplier, you can build square and flush with no problem. This is the main issue — so check out the dimensions in each pile and from pile to pile. You can get a reasonably priced portable planer these days so you can clean any side and standardize dimensions on site. Ripping rough sawn on your table saw will make the sawn side as smooth as finished lumber, too.
If the lumbers green, it needs to cure; make sure you stack it properly.
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Who makes the joist hangers for the rough sawn wood. I use it alot but I haven't seen the hangers for it. Up until reading your message that was the only fault I found.
-Eric
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I got a great price on the lumber for my house.(less then a third the lowest price I could get from any lumber yard) The problem is that it's all rough sawn. I checked with my building inspector and he has no problem as long as I don't try to "use it to graded specs" Another words I might have to use 16" O.C. rather than 24" O.C. (what I planned anyway, cause I HATE bouncy floors!)Anyway this past week I've heard nothing but horror stories about how many slivers, how rough it was on the hands, etc. My thought was to buy and wear gloves and enjoy the savings. You guys do this for a living what's your opinion?
*Check the moisture content.
*Calvin's right, moisture content could be high. The other thing is, they plane lumber to insure consistant dimensions. I have used rough sawn lumber quite a bit through the years and as long as you are on your toes, it's fine, but be careful to check thicknesses and allow for oddball thicknesses and widths. I haven't had any trouble with splinters.
*Use it quite often over the years. The only horror story was several years ago when it was rough sawn, undried oak. The entire house was made of rough sawn, undried oak. The entire house was hand cut and nailed. One tough house but my arms still remember it.
*Used rough sawn three times for the look. You have to measure the width and height of it wherever that's critical but I had no problems with splinters. As far as graded lumber goes, this stuff was just as good as the junk they now call no.2 (I think there's a reason it's called "number 2".)
*You're using rough sawn for a floor ? How flat will you be able to get the floor ?
*I have used it for several projects and have helped a few people use it. There are about 4 mills around here so it is plentiful.Dimensions may vary, but some mills are better than others. Also - I had to square cut both ends because they were as cut by the chainsaw. I don't get as many slivers as I do handling the 100 year old roughsawn I take out of this house!Oh Yeah - you can buy joist hangers for this stuff as well.-Rob
*I envy you guys who can easily find a close supply of rough sawn dimensional lumber. In the old days rough sawn used to sell sometimes 20% less than finished lumber. Now its the same price or more; 'cause its a special order -- unless you got small local sawmills. High volume mills are selling to bulk distributors these days and they get a better profit from finished lumber. Local lumber yards rarely even have a small direct mill supplying them. They are dependent upon the same large distributors as Home Depot; etc. That's why they can't compete in price -- only service -- but few of them have figured this out where I live.Rough sawn lumber, if it is full dimension (i.e. a 2 X is actually a full 2"'s and the width is also full dmension) are between 25% and 40% stronger than finished dimensioned planks. This means longer spans and increased OC spacing -- tree species by species. This is a big additional savings except where you are 4' dependent which is true for all sheating materials. For steel roofs and horizontally applied OSB or ply, you can get some economies. If your using lumber for decking (eg 5/4 stock), you have some additional spacing flexibility. There are lots of ways to skin the cat, particularly with sills, girders; etc. You should check out the Post and Beam builders site (try searching it on your browser). These guys have good info and a forum on heavy timbers, rough sawn lumber grading; etc.If your getting the exact same dimensions per board from your supplier, you can build square and flush with no problem. This is the main issue -- so check out the dimensions in each pile and from pile to pile. You can get a reasonably priced portable planer these days so you can clean any side and standardize dimensions on site. Ripping rough sawn on your table saw will make the sawn side as smooth as finished lumber, too.If the lumbers green, it needs to cure; make sure you stack it properly.
*I plan on running a floor sander over the floor to knock the high spots off, use something like 24 grit just to level it. Then I'll run one side of the planks thru the planer to ensure they are level. Since I'll be using 2x4s that measure an actual 2"x4" and 4/4 planks I should wind up with a reasonably flat floor with plenty of thickness to get things flat. (besides, when did you ever see a floor that was actually flat? I've never seen a floor that a marble won't roll on someplace, includeing TGI's w/T&G 3/4 plywood.)
*Thanks Tedd, I wondered why if this was such a great deal why more people aren't doing it. Now that I've stood at the end of the mill and sorted the wood, stacked it, stickered it , tarped it , retarped it, reretarped it, bought the moisture meter to check moisture etc. I understand, I just traded my time for a better deal. That's O.K., by doing it this way I could afford the addition. If I waited untill I could afford the Lumberyard prices it would be a much longer wait. The bonus is all that Burl Oak I got. And the low price I paid for black Walnut. I guess hard work has it's reward. What state are you in? Aren't there small sawmills in every state? Check with people like woodmiser etc. Or go to National Hardwood Lumber Association. they list hundreds of sawmills (evan Arizona)
*I'm checking up here boss, sorry I stole that from "Cool Hand Luke" anyway the big timbers 12"x12"X24' test at 12% after only a year so What do I do about measureing the inside? or can I use them once the outside was done? I know the rule 1 inch per year, darn if I'm going to wait 10 1/2 more years!
*You nailed together an Oak house? Please tell me more.I thought that if you tried to nail it together the wood would split, the tanic acid would attack the steel in nails and rust them and cause the surrounding wood to rot. I planned on screwing everything together with stainless steel lag bolts/ screws. That means Every hole would have to be predrilled.
*OK, as for the splinters. Here's a great trick for those really irritating ones that are too small to see, but you really feel them:Coat the affected area with yellow woodworking glue, put it on like an ointment, and use it to glue a scrap of newspaper to your skin. When it sets up enough, just peel it off, and it takes the tiny splinters with it. I found this out when I was demoing lath and plaster walls.-- J.S.