Replies

1. 
   Jim_K_ | Apr 13, 2000 07:36am | #1

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   I just installed one, and the kits seemed surprisingly sturdy (and convenient). The side supports get their sturdiness by wrapping the 1x in a decent guage steel.

2. 
   Guest_ | Apr 13, 2000 11:14am | #2

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   Crust,

   Johnson Hdwr. Fine. Heavy duty series. More rollers.

   If you're doing the trimming, don't nail the door to the basebd.

   If you size them big enough, you can use decorative pulls that project from the surface of the door. Just mount your stop so the door doesn't go all the way into the pocket. Did this for an accessibility issue.

   Best of luck on the new abode.

1. 
   Guest_ | Apr 13, 2000 11:57am | #3

   *I've found the 4" kits to be a tad flimsey, and have estricted their use to areas where the walls with the pocket aren't likely to be bumped into much. (Not that I've done many.)Bob

1. 
   Guest_ | Apr 13, 2000 01:53pm | #4

   *don't forget to mount the stop before you sheetrock(been there done that!) also, make sure you leave enough room at the bottom for floor coverings. It sucks when you have to tear all the trim off to take the door blank out and cut it down cause it won't slide on the carpet!

1. 
   Guest_ | Apr 13, 2000 08:02pm | #5

   *A wile back some one suggested Jhonson pocket door hardware, leave out the steel 1x's and use a sheet of 3/4" mdf or BC grACe ply. It was good advice. Both of my pocket doors work great, and the wall does not deflect much if you bump into it. maintaining my weekend warrior status Bill

1. 
   Guest_ | Apr 13, 2000 08:12pm | #6

   *Johnson works great, and the plywood substitute is good advice but IF you have the space, screw a flat 2x to each side of the hardware, this will add 3 inches to the thickness of the wall . but the wall will be stiffer, you can trim it with regular techniques, you don't have to worry about screw points sticking thru to damage the doors, and you can even mount electrical devices in the wallthe package does all the thinking for you and the padding makes it better and easier..

2. 
   Guest_ | Apr 14, 2000 12:03am | #7

   *If you use the kit for a 4 inch wall. Be careful with your drywall screws. I once screwed a pocket door open with about 20 screws when hanging drywall.

3. 
   Guest_ | Apr 14, 2000 12:56am | #8

   *Second, or is it third?, on replacing the Johnson kit studs with something more substantial if you are going to rock. They are a bit hinky to nail to. Other than that I really prefer the kit to doing it from scratch. The kit gets everything you need in one economical package that is quick and easy to install.

3. 
   James_Fuller | Apr 14, 2000 01:44am | #9

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   The biggest problem with pocket doors is that in use they always bump into the studs when closing. Substituting the studs with plywood or MDF would eliminate that problem.

   Jim

4. 
   Guest_ | Apr 14, 2000 05:18am | #10

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   Another vote for " Johnson" brand. They have a basicly jump proof track and roller setup. I like the idea of replacing the studs w/ plywood or beefing them up with a flat 2x, have to try that next time.

   I usually install one side of the split head jamb with trim screws and nail the head casing to the jamb only on that side. Makes it much easier to remove the door later if needed.

   Chuck

1. 
   Guest_ | Apr 14, 2000 05:23am | #11

   *Johnson all the way. Frames are easy to work with. Once you install one they are a breeze... like the idea of building out the studs- sounds easier to trim and better results

1. 
   Guest_ | Apr 14, 2000 06:37am | #12

   *just recently met a guy that screwed the last side of trim to the 1x jamb, and then screwed it to the wall with coutersunk drywall screws, the screw heads were easily hideable and it makes taking the door out very easy if you needed to. I thought it was a great idea...

1. 
   Guest_ | Apr 14, 2000 03:18pm | #13

   *Crusty,

   Here's a discussion that Matt G. started awhile back, it might be helpful to you. What's also interesting about it, is there's someone named "Crusty" in it?

   Oh, try using the search function, that's lots of info out there already.

   View Image © 1999-2000"The first step towards vice is to shroud innocent actions in mystery, and whoever likes to conceal something sooner or later has reason to conceal it." Aristotle

1. 
   Guest_ | Apr 14, 2000 04:55pm | #14

   *Joe, I really did do a search on "pocket doors" before I started this thread -- don't know how I missed Matt's post. And, yes, that was me who responded. But that was June '99 -- I can barely remember what I did/said/etc last week!

2. 
   Guest_ | Apr 14, 2000 08:11pm | #15

   *Crusty,

   Awhile back I had the chance to use one of the pocket door kits. It was easy to understand and went together fast. In all it took me about 20 minutes to install it. The major problem with it was that after the drywall (1/2") as applied to the framing the wall was still quite flimsy. I guess if you used 5/8" drywall it may have helped.

   The experience has left me with the feeling that I can do just as well if I still frame them myself.

   View Image © 1999-2000"Whenever, therefore, people are deceived and form opinions wide of the truth, it is clear that the error has slid into their minds through the medium of certain resemblance's to that truth." Socrates

3. 
   Guest_ | Apr 16, 2000 01:12am | #17

   *Crusty...my outfit does about 20 pocket doors a year, The Johnson units are too flimsy for us. If one of the split jambs decides to warp, it can actually bow the metal stud, usually into the door's path. We buy a heavier gauge track and roller kit (Johnson hardware is ok too), chuck the metal studs,and frame the pocket with 2x stock on the flat (6" wall). I set my jambs a heavy 1/16th bigger than the door all the way around. Use blocking and Sheetrock screws to attach one of the head jambs in place. Then I run colonial door stop on both sides of the door, covering the head jamb screws. Picture I'm trying to paint here is... Door closes into "pocket" on solid jamb created my the colonial stop,.....and is easily removed by popping the 3pieces of stop on the screw head jamb side, dropping that head jamb and its backing (also removable...gives unfettered access to the rollers) and swinging the door out of the opening. Couple of other things...we slot the bottom of the door and use a cast metal guide that looks like a inverted "tee"- much better than the nylon side guides provided with the kit. And we tack the stop with 5/8 brads, ditto the head casing to the removable jamb, for easier removal down the line. Lastly, I spray flat black paint up into the track area before any trimming takes place..makes all that hardware "invisible" when the door is open. The hardest part is remembering which headjamb is the removable one, 3 years after you installed the door.regards....murph

5. 
   Guest_ | Apr 16, 2000 01:12am | #16

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   I'm sure some of you hate pocket doors, but I've always liked them. Have several places in my new house that I want to use them. My framer suggested I just use the kits that are designed for a 4" wall. Seems to me these would be a little flimsy since you don't have much support behind the drywall. I can use 6" walls most places and it'd be fairly inexpensive (short walls), but don't want to if the 4" kits work good.

   What do you think? What's your preferred way of doing pocket doors?