A while ago I took out a wall between my kitchen and dining room. There was an outlet in the wall with three wires attached to it. A white, a black and a red (in addition to the ground.) No problem. I just cut the wires, leaving an inch or so of each attached to the outlet. I figured when I finally got the cabinets that are replacing the wall built I would install the same outlet, putting the wires back the same way.
Naturally, now that I’m ready to go I can’t find the outlet. So, my question is, what is the red wire for and where on the outlet does it go? As far as I can remember, the outlet was not operated by a switch, but there are other outlets in the room that are controlled by a wall switch (actually, just half the outlet is switched, the other half is live all the time) so it is possible that half the outlet is hooked up to the switch. Is that what the red wire is for? What’s the proper way to connect the three wires to the outlet? Any help would be appreciated.
Replies
Sonds like you have a "1/2 switched outlet".
White is neutral, red is switched hot (usually), black is hot all of the time.
Test to be sure.
Figure out which outlet is switched - which outlet is hot all of the time / which is switched in the rest of the room - upper switched / lower switched -- wire new one to match.
Assuming the red / black / white configuration above is correct:
1) Look at new outlet connection screws - one side of the outlet will have gold colored screws - this is the "hot" connection side. Other side will have chrome screws - this is the neutral side.
2) On the hot side only - yellow screws - break the connecting tab off between the upper and lower outlet connection screws. Do not break tab off on the neutral side of the outlet.
3) Connect the white wire (neutral) to either of the chrome screws. Tighten the unused screw just to get it out of the way.
4) Connect black wire to the yellow screw along side of the outlet you wish to remain hot all of the time.
5) Connect red wire to the yellow screw alongside of the outlet you wish to have switched.
6) Connect bare ground wire to the green screw.
Done.
Jim
Edited 12/4/2007 12:56 pm ET by JTC1
Your wire should be white for neutral, black for permanent supply and red for switched.
On the outlet is a little metal bridge and this can be snapped off to make the sockets separate, only do the "hot" side of the socket. Then the red and black are connected to the now individual "hot" terminals. Other side is common neutral with the white wire.
A voltage sensor would be very helpful to check which wire is switched. Be careful.
Being that the receptacle was in the kitchen or dinning room it is possible that it was on the 20 amp small appliacne circuits. And that they were wired with a multiwire circuit and that this was the end of the line.
In that case it should have been feed by a 2 pole breaker or 2 single pole breakers with a tie bar between them.
But it might not have the tie bar.
The receptacle would be wired the same way as if it was switched.
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A-holes. Hey every group has to have one. And I have been elected to be the one. I should make that my tagline.
Good thinking.
I figured it was the end of a string of switched / hot combination duplex outlets - never considered it might be the end of a multiwire circuit.
Jim
Never underestimate the value of a sharp pencil or good light.
The first two responses I understood with no problem, and I think I understand your reply. Just so I'm clear, you're saying that regardless of whether it is a switched outlet or the end of the line of a multi-wire circuit, I would make the connections the same way?
The most important thing being is this - switched or multi-wire, sever that tab between the two screws. (check the breaker set up, too)
If you have a meter and are comfortable using it with AC, check the voltage between the black and red. Assuming the breaker(s) is(are) on, you would get 220V black to red and 115, black or red to white.
Edit to add: If it is a switched circuit, you should get 0 volts between black and red with the switch on or off - careful here since 0 volts is just the difference between them, there could still be 115 from either to neutral or ground (through you). If it is a properly wired switched outlet and the switch is on, you'll get 115 black to white and 115 red to white. With the switch off, you'll get that only on one of those.
Edited 12/4/2007 3:09 pm by jhausch
Assuming you are dealing with the tail end of a multi-wire circuit.
Jim
Edit: good edit re: black and red voltage readings.
Never underestimate the value of a sharp pencil or good light.
Edited 12/4/2007 3:12 pm ET by JTC1
Thanks. Corrected.
Seeing as how this is a kitchen counter outlet (he did say counter somewhere) I am guessing it is multi-wire. That guess filtered my original post. I corrected it and have no doubt helped to further confuse the OP.
I just re-read. I guess it could be a switched outlet low on the wall. . . .
Edited 12/4/2007 3:11 pm by jhausch
I think he has got it - we all post here with the best of intentions but sometimes end up being "just as clear as mud".
He'll come back if confused. Combined the posts yield enough information to 1)determine if he is dealing with a multiwire circuit or a 1/2 switched outlet and 2)how to wire the duplex either way.
Jim
Never underestimate the value of a sharp pencil or good light.
I just had visions of it being 220 and him not severing the tie-bar (then turning on the breaker).
I figured "switched or not, based on what has been described, sever the tie-bar."
Yes, they are wired the same way. Break the tab between the screws hot screws (brass or darker colored) and connect one to the black and one to the red.I don't know if you know what a mutiwire circuit is or not.The two hots are connected at the panel so that there is 240 between them. That puts them on different legs of the 120/240 supply and the neutral only carries the difference in currents. It saves a small amoun in the cost of wire vs 2 separate circuits.The most common place that this was done was in kitchen in the past. That way at each receptacle you could have 2 big loads operating at the same time.Now with GFCI's you either need to have a 2 pole GFCI breaker, put a GFCI at each receptacle that needs it, or break it into 2 difference circuits at the counter top. So it is less common. .
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A-holes. Hey every group has to have one. And I have been elected to be the one. I should make that my tagline.
didn't read all replies, but there is one more consideration I can think of: if that outlet is fed by a 20a breaker, the cable should be 12g. If it's part of the kitch area it could be on a 20a breaker.
Lighting and plugs are usually fed by a 15a breaker and you'll find 14g wire here.
It's for this reason that I usually use 12g wire regardless when remodeling--you know you'll always be safe if there's a 20a breaker used now, or sometime in the future.