Replies

1. 
   DaveRicheson | May 27, 2008 11:19pm | #1

   I have used the Hilti epoxy/anchor system with success on old brick. Pricey but works well.

   Flashing?

   I know the theory but have never done the work for exterior apllication. Someone with old work experience will help you out there.

2. 
   JeffBuck | May 27, 2008 11:42pm | #2

   usually you can find some of the brink to drill and anchor in to.

   I did one job where we decided the whole wall was too soft ... so we dug down ...

   carefully!

    

   dug down ... poured and pinned the new foundation to the old ...

   then built a load bearing wall as the first interior wall inside the new addition.

    

   for flashing just cut in and step flash like ya do any old chimney.

    

   is there any accessable wood in the floor framing to bolt in to?

   another option for "spot attachment" is to pop an old brick / block and mud that hole tight. Let it set and you got somewhere to drill / anchor into. Just gotta be sure it's not gonna pull the existing brick work out with it ... but after some walls are set ... it's a decent way to attach the rafters to the existing.

   and use plenty of PL Premium.

    

   best bet is to plan on that solid foundation ... then nothing goes no where.

   Jeff

       Buck Construction

    Artistry In Carpentry

        Pittsburgh Pa

1. 
   DanT | May 28, 2008 02:26am | #4

   "dug down ... poured and pinned the new foundation to the old ..."

   That was one of my first thoughts.  But I thought maybe it was overkill.  The HO wanted "if possible" to have the brick exposed but I don't like the idea with nothing to anchor too.  I can see water issues and movement issues galore possible.  With warranty work.  Yuck!

   "is there any accessable wood in the floor framing to bolt in to?"

   Nope.  Nothing at all. Looks like the floor joists are setting on one brick row with the other covering it from the out doors.

   "and use plenty of PL Premium."

   Another early thought.  Glad the voice of experience thinks that way too!

1. 
   MikeHennessy | May 28, 2008 03:41pm | #5

   What Jeff said. Build it freestanding, and tie in everwhere you can. Even if the joists are buried in the brick, you can always rig a tie bolt through the brick and back into the existing framing. You can probably also tie in at the roofline. Keep the addition a few inches shy of the existing corners so you have a setback -- it's easier to keep it weathertight than if it's flush. (I also think it looks better -- it doesn't pretend to be part of the original structure.) Foam between the new framing and the old brick. Side and trim the new up to the brick and flash where possible, caulk where not.

   Like this:

   View Image

   Joist headers doubled to span on the house side, and sized to carry the load independently, but bolted through the brick at each floor level. Roof framing also tied in. Can't see it in these pics, but the old outside brick is exposed as the interior wall on the first floor of this addition. Lotsa lateral bracing via the ply sheathing and inlet interior diagonals to keep it stiff.

   View Image

   Mike HennessyPittsburgh, PA

1. 
   DanT | May 28, 2008 09:16pm | #6

   Thanks for the advice and photos.  A big help!  DanT

1. 
   MikeHennessy | May 29, 2008 02:58pm | #7

   Glad to pitch in.

   Mike HennessyPittsburgh, PA

2. 
   JeffBuck | May 29, 2008 03:39pm | #8

   exposed brick ...

    

   can U work a post and beam look into the design.

   instead of a wall of framing to carry the load run that big header beam and carry it with a coupla nicely spaced posts.

   less wood blocking the brick.

   Jeff    Buck Construction

    Artistry In Carpentry

        Pittsburgh Pa

3. 
   DanH | May 27, 2008 11:48pm | #3

   For fastening flashing I would think the way to go would be to make a slot and set the flashing into it. Seal with caulk or a SOFT mortar.

   What is wanted is not the will to believe, but the will to find out, which is the exact opposite. --Bertrand Russell