Replies

1. 
   Guest_ | Apr 14, 2000 02:11pm | #1

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   IF this were mine, i would buy some profile in copper like a C-5 edge, then cut the back sideand bend the face to conform to the roof edge...

   on top of that i would buy a roll of HARD copper 8 inch, and lay that out in appropriate lengths, scribe the front for apx. one inch overhang and ct to the scribe line with some sharp shears...

   lay a strip of ice and water on top of the C5 edge and then nail yur 8 inch scribed strip in place with copper roofing nails.

   your roofing material also has to follow this edge so the neat 8" copper stri[p will be agood surface to scribe to..

   the 1 inch edge, your starter course, and the top course of the roofing material should prove strong enough if care is taken .. or block out the ladders if you lean against the edge...

   trying to bend lead or copper flashing IN PLACE by beating it over the edge of the fascia will look like an amateur did it....been there , done that...

2. 
   Scott_Chadbourne | Apr 18, 2000 06:16am | #2

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   Mike,
   Would a style "d" roof edge that had multiple "v" notches cut in it similar to an arch-bead work?
   Scott

3. 
   Guest_ | Apr 18, 2000 05:17pm | #3

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   Scott.. i know and i know (that's the standard drip edge).. is a simple shape.. so you can notch the back and bend it concave or convex..

   naturally, you can't do that with an profile...so... unless you show me what a style profile looks like , i can't answer that....

4. 
   Scott_Chadbourne | Apr 19, 2000 05:53am | #4

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   Mike,
   Apparently diferent names for roof edges in different parts of the country. Our "c" mould is known as old work metal. Our style "f" mould is used on the wall for soffit. Style "d" is our basic design roof edge. I had a roofing contractor wanting me to estimate a 18ft diameter plywood/shingle replacement roof for an old feed silo. Will experiment with some scrap. I use mostly all Rollex edges and soffit material. Thanks, Scott

5. 
   Marcia_Wake | Apr 19, 2000 02:14pm | #5

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   I have a roof that has curves in plan and is also slightly domed. The edge curves both in and out (convex and concave). Does anyone have any experience with how to finish the roof edge for such a roof?

   If I use metal flashing, should I solder lots of small pieces to fit the curve, or use something soft like lead to make pleats to follow the curve, or use copper, and hammer a short top edge over a front face? I want to go two or three inches down the front, and min. 4”, preferably 8 inches at the top under the roof finish.

   I think a mastic and then a liquid-applied edge would look neater, and be less lumpy, but what material would withstand having tall heavy ladders bounced (ever so gently) against it?

6. 
   Guest_ | Apr 19, 2000 02:14pm | #6

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   Mike ,In the mid west A metal has shape , C metal has shape and D metal has shape