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I am installing 3/4″ X 4″ oak flooring over 3/4″ OSB sheeting. This floor will be in formal rooms, hallways , family room and KITCHEN.
1. Should I put 15# felt paper between the two?
2. How long should I let the floor acclimate before installation, before sanding, before staining, before finishing?
3. What type (stain or dye) or brand stain would penetrate best?
4. What are the relative merits of using a oil finish, or water based polyurethane, or oil based polyurethane (as far as ease of application, appearance, wear and maintenance)?
5. Iv’e noticed that when I apply polyurethane on a test piece of wood, the finish seems to separate and flow off of the dark grain of the wood. Is this a problem, and if so what should I do about it?
6. Should I seal the bottom and sides and ends of the boards before installation? Would this help protect the tongue and groove area from water etc. (especially in the kitchen) and would it also keep the end grain of the pieces from becoming too dark if an oil finish was used for initial finish and for periodic maintenance?
7. Would it be easier to periodically rub some oil on a clean and scuffed floor rather than recoating the whole floor with polyurethane?
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1. The felt can't hurt
2. Cut the bundles and let the wood acclimate for a few days.
3. Use a stain recommended by the manufacturer of the top coat. I have always used a product called Glitza.It's made in Sweden and dries hard as heck,but it has an awful smell during application and drying.A good waterbase system is made by Varathane? I beleive Home Depot carries the line.
4. Wax does fill minor scratches, but you will need to strip the floor of all wax to refinish in future.
Hope some of this helped. Reinhard
*I'll only comment on the finish. I've used Glitza Gold Seal on 4 floors so far, versus polyurethan on one. The Glitza is a formaldehyde cure (it'll pickle your eyeballs in a closed room) superior finish. Not as "plactic" as the polyurethane. It is deformable, so dents and scratches don't cause chips or delaminations as with some polyUs.FHB had an article Many years ago (like issue 20-30 ??)I like it.Adam
*dont do anything to the tounge and groove, or the bottom. Locate the joists and make sure you get a nail in each one (this is not as important as when 1/2" was standard subfloor). Do not even think about sanding it yourself. Stagger your joints well. I try for 8 to 12 inches on adjoining boards. And 3 to 6 inches on the next board over. I like three coats of gloss moisture cure, then wait a year and put another coat down if possible.Rick Tuk
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I am installing 3/4" X 4" oak flooring over 3/4" OSB sheeting. This floor will be in formal rooms, hallways , family room and KITCHEN.
1. Should I put 15# felt paper between the two?
2. How long should I let the floor acclimate before installation, before sanding, before staining, before finishing?
3. What type (stain or dye) or brand stain would penetrate best?
4. What are the relative merits of using a oil finish, or water based polyurethane, or oil based polyurethane (as far as ease of application, appearance, wear and maintenance)?
5. Iv'e noticed that when I apply polyurethane on a test piece of wood, the finish seems to separate and flow off of the dark grain of the wood. Is this a problem, and if so what should I do about it?
6. Should I seal the bottom and sides and ends of the boards before installation? Would this help protect the tongue and groove area from water etc. (especially in the kitchen) and would it also keep the end grain of the pieces from becoming too dark if an oil finish was used for initial finish and for periodic maintenance?
7. Would it be easier to periodically rub some oil on a clean and scuffed floor rather than recoating the whole floor with polyurethane?