Hi everyone,this is my first time here ,i just suscribed to fine home building but i have a question.I have a 200 sq ft oak floor that has been sanded.I am gonna put a sanding sealer on it and then a a few coats of varnish.My question is how many coats should i put and should i be sanding between the coats and what should i be sanding with ,screen or paper.
thanks for the help.
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Varnish? Do they still make that stuff?
if you can't be helpfull don't waste your time.
Dear Sir,
One thing that might be helpful to you, in the future, is to also try the Knots forum. They can be helpful as well as this group of seasoned craftsmen, with certain questions you may have. It's based on the Fine Woodworking magazine.
TRIGGER
I hope that made sense.
Edited 10/1/2005 3:53 pm ET by TRIGGER
makes a lot of sense ,you're all very helpfull thanks a lot i'll let you know how it turns out.
Why the sanding sealer? WE only use that for a way to seal a floor agianst mositure and stians - a thin wear coat while we are working over the floor until it can get a real sanding and finish. We also use it sometimes for door parts before assenbling.
If by "varnish" you mean the commonly used polyurethene, you should know that most polys are not compatable with sanding sealer.
make sure you are clear on what product you want to use and then we can go to town on it.
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Sanding sealer can also be used to help get an even stain coat, but that's probably not an issue here unless he has cherry floors.
"When asked if you can do something, tell'em "Why certainly I can", then get busy and find a way to do it." T. Roosevelt
Stay away from sanding sealer. Its not a durable undercoat. from my experience it can be a little waxy.
I got into an argument with a pro painter about this very issue. I contend sanding sealer is a fast and cheap method to get to to finish coat all the while compromising quality
You need to apply 3 coats of polyuerethane and you only need to sand before the final coat
3 coats of poly... i use a regular comerical floor buffer with a scotch bright type pad between coats... the white pad is pretty fine... use it then a tac cloth to remove all dust... then recoat...
p
Check into a Benjamin Moore product called "stays clear". It's all I ever use on wood flooring. They have high gloss and low lustre. I prefer the look of low lustre. Since it is a water-based product, you can put both coats on in a single day. Also, no strong odors.
http://www.benjaminmoore.com/wrapper_pg3.asp?L=prod&K=intprods&groupid=25&productid=95#article
from the webpage.....
Color Available
Clear*
The Breaktimer formerly known as "Steve-O"
"Preach the Gospel at all times; if necessary, use words." - St. Francis of Assisi
thank a lot steve i will try it next week ill let you know how it turns out.
Would you sand between coats and what would you use?
There is no need to be rude. Do you always go around insulting those who are trying to help you?
Tigger and I were both trying to get you to clarify the actual product you wanted to use, because the advice you need is specific to the product.Now, it appears that you do not want Varnish, but a water borne polyurethene instead?I sand lightly with 120 between first and second coats and sand with 150 between second and third coats, always with the grain.
Welcome to the Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime. where ... Excellence is its own reward!
Thank you,
respectfully to all of you, tRigger
Since it is a water-based product, a very light sanding may be required if the grain feels slightly raised.
Be sure to use a short nap mohair roller cover to apply it.
Let us know how it turns out for you.
The Breaktimer formerly known as "Steve-O"
"Preach the Gospel at all times; if necessary, use words." - St. Francis of Assisi
A friend told me he heats polyurethane prior to applying it to the floor.
He takes a mop bucket and fills it half way with boiling hot water.
He then places heavy plastic as a "liner" in the bucket and he pours the poly urethane in and it gets heated this way.
He says he was taught to apply floor finish this was in the military.
I have never tried this. Again, this is just something I was told.
Maybe, maybe not.The warmth would lower the viscosity and possibly let it penetrate certain woods faster when using oil based, but it would also cause the volatile oils to flash off quicker and give an irregular surface finish, even possibly creating some cold laps.Since the wood of the floor itself would still be normal temp, and cool the finish oil off quickly, I doubt that there would be much advatage
Welcome to the Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime. where ... Excellence is its own reward!