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Ice and water shield removal

| Posted in General Discussion on September 10, 1999 07:10am

*
if I have the right end of the stick, could a rabbit in the trim clear the buildup and everything sit flat and square? just put extension jambs on the inside.

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Replies

  1. Guest_ | Sep 10, 1999 08:07pm | #11

    *
    If at first you do not do it right, then take it apart and get it right.

    We have to remove this sticky waterproof membrane. Peel it back, and it leaves residue and sticks like hell. Has anyone had any luck with getting it off cleanly. Cold or heat, solvent ?

    Appreciate the help

    Rj Scott

    1. Guest_ | Sep 09, 1999 05:02pm | #1

      *Sounds like it is doing what it is supposed to do. Probably the cheapest solution is to sheath over it. I have tried solvent (used too much) cold (didn't work) and heat (left too much residue).

      1. Guest_ | Sep 09, 1999 05:42pm | #2

        *RJ, Why do you have to take it off cleanly?John

        1. Guest_ | Sep 09, 1999 06:50pm | #3

          *Ron,Thanks for the feedback, those were the ideas that we had thought of trying. Sounds like you are right, it is doing what it is supposed t do. I guess this is one of those times that I could convince it to stop. John,We need to remove and move a rather large window which was flashed with Ice and Water sheild. Just wondering if anyone has had any luchk in minimizing the mess invlolved in such an operation.Rj

          1. Guest_ | Sep 09, 1999 07:13pm | #4

            *Can you just cut the membrane around the nailing fin to remove the window and leave what's left behind? Or do you have to remove the membrane from a visible portion of the window?John

          2. Guest_ | Sep 09, 1999 07:22pm | #5

            *JRS,This is when I realize that I sometimes do not give enough information. The window is a site built cvg cedar jamb with a sill buut no exterior trim. The ice and water sheild bridges the gap between the sheeting and the jamb. When the commercial grade aluminum windows come in we are going to set them in the jamb over the ice and water making a good seal. These windows have a half inch flange. Nesxt we are going to apply the trim on the remaining exposed jamb ( well not completely exposed hence the ice and water ) . we are concerned about a clean removal and minimizing buildup on the jamb. Was hopeing too find out if anyone had some experience with a succesful yet simple method of relatively clean removal.Thanks,Rj

          3. Guest_ | Sep 10, 1999 02:02am | #6

            *Rj,I've never had to scrape I&W completely off, but what I would suggest is to try heating a drywall or putty knife and scraping, keep two knives going cause one will cool down pretty quick. you would avoid the mess of heating all the I&W, or saturating it with solvent. Let us know how it works out.John

          4. Guest_ | Sep 10, 1999 05:10am | #7

            *Leave all the goo, slice the window loose and remove, change your RO with your favorite chainsaw or sawzall, reseal, then change your trim to work.aj

          5. nigel_martin | Sep 10, 1999 07:10am | #8

            *if I have the right end of the stick, could a rabbit in the trim clear the buildup and everything sit flat and square? just put extension jambs on the inside.

          6. Guest_ | Sep 10, 1999 08:00am | #9

            *Rj, if John's technique works, then dash out and pick up a Bernz-O-Matic Propane paint stripper. The propane heat will keep the scraper knife hot for you and speed the process. You'll have a mess, but should be able to achieve what you want.Good luck, Steve

          7. Guest_ | Sep 10, 1999 09:37am | #10

            *Hey everyone,Thanks for all the helpful comments. We ended up using mechanical removal and solvent, solvent and lots of solvent. The window looks like it will turn out just fine. Now if you guys have any hints as to how to find a missing roofer... seems he was up there working yesterday, but today we could not find him.Rj

          8. Guest_ | Sep 10, 1999 08:07pm | #12

            *He's probably sniffing that solvent.

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