Replies

1. 
   G.LaLonde | Jan 16, 2000 07:34am | #2

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   Mark, We have to locate underground piping all the time. We use the same unit the local utilities use. You just clamp a sending unit onto a section of the metal pipe that is visible and go out in the yard with the locating unit. It is very easy to find pipes down to 8' or more. I'm sure somebody from one of the local utility companies could help you.

2. 
   Guest_ | Jan 16, 2000 10:57pm | #3

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   Ralph,

   Thanks for your reply. Of course, starting from scratch and redoing all of it is the best solution.

   We're considering running the new pipe through the attic and then inside walls that are accessible. However, the exterior walls of this house are concrete and perhaps 7" or 8" thick. How do you run pipe down that?

   Another problem we found was hot water bleeding over into the cold side in the master bath sink! Trying to untangle his plumbing system is a real challenge. We're running out of hairs to scratch!

   I'll get back to you when I have more info.

   Mark

1. 
   Guest_ | Jan 16, 2000 10:59pm | #4

   *Rental yards I called in his city didn't have one of these.I'll call in my town and see.Thanks,Mark

1. 
   Guest_ | Jan 17, 2000 12:47am | #5

   *Try calling your local 1-800 DIG number. These are the guys that come out and mark all underground utilities. In my area, it's a free service paid for by the utility co's. If I call and say I need an particular address marked out, I show up in a couple of days and electric, cable, sewer, gas, water, and anything else is painted on the grass.

1. 
   Guest_ | Jan 17, 2000 10:24am | #6

   *Mark, two methods, at least, will work for exterior walls.1. From the inside: come down an accessible wall then open the walls to your destination, secure the piping and close and refinish the walls.2. From the outside: Cold water direct from the main but tied in after the master valve run underground around the house to the destination wall, vertically to whatever height you need and then horizontally right through the wall; Hot water from the water heater, out through the wall, down into the ground, around the house to the destination wall, then same as cold. Don't forget to insulate the pipes.I'm assuming, because you mentioned piping from the attic, that there is no basement?Also, if remodeling is involved, you could also relocate fixtures to an interior wall (probably more than you want to do).I can't quite picture what you mean by hot water bleeding over to the cold side. If the hot and cold fixtures are totally separate (non mixing type) then perhaps the supply lines are crossed. If the mixing type (two handles) and no leak when both off - not a clue. If the mixing type (single handle) then a worn or cracked cartridge.Once again, untangling is probably neither time nor cost effective. Start from scratch.Don't forget that PVC cannot be used inside the house!Comments? Ralph

1. 
   Guest_ | Jan 23, 2000 10:28pm | #7

   *Thanks RyanI didn't realize that there was ONE company that would mark all the lines for you. The water utility would only mark their main, nothing downstream of the meter. I'll certainly follow up on your suggestion.Thanks

2. 
   Guest_ | Jan 23, 2000 10:41pm | #8

   *Ralph,Starting from scratch is sounding like the way to go. He doesn't have a basement.I wondered for a long time regarding his mixed-up faucet. I believe there used to be an old water heater or two. And instead of capping them off, he (or the previous owner) simply tied the lines together, thus mixing hot & cold. I haven't been rafter crawling to see what's up there yet.We did remove, rather relocate, one water heater to the laundry room and capped off those lines. I didn't realize that PVC cannot be used inside the house! Of course, I'm not a plumber. So I guess only copper or metal pipe. His house is in the city so we need to check with the code.Thanks for your time,Mark

3. 
   Guest_ | Jan 24, 2000 12:19am | #10

   *I'm no plumber either but cpvc is used inside alot. I thought pvc was OK for drain and cold supply, just not hot water.

3. 
   Guest_ | Jan 24, 2000 12:19am | #9

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   I'm helping an elderly friend install new plumbing in his house. We've tapped in downstream of the meter with PVC and run it to the house. It would make our lives easier if we could locate the existing metal plumbing in the yard. I called couple of rental yards to see if they had anything that could help us, but to no avail.

   Him & his wife live in a house that used to be an old dairy barn. It was built sometime in the 30's and no one living knows much about the layout of the plumbing in the ground.

   How do you professional plumbers solve something like this?

   Thanks in advance,

   Mark

1. 
   Guest_ | Jan 16, 2000 06:31am | #1

   *Mark, is there a pressing reason you must find old water lines in the ground since you have already put in a new run to the house? Our experience has been just to ignore the old and run new where ever it is needed. As they start to fail, it is not cost efficient to find and piece in new sections. Sometimes, as you try, subsequent sections break or the movement causes what is left of the inside diameter to close completely (mineral deposits).If the PVC you have run to the house is just on the surface temporarily I would suggest you trench to a depth consistent with your areas frostline requirements and make that your permanent run.Comments? Ralph