Replies

1. 
   Guest_ | May 24, 2000 10:14pm | #1

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   Welcome Steve. This is where we gather the Breaktime posts that appear in the magazine. Beware; your words might find their way into print.

   My answer to your question is to rip triangular blocking that fits behind your crown with a little bit of clearance. This, I'd nail or screw into the top plate of the wall. I bet you get other, better suggestions than mine though.

   Best,

   Andy

1. 
   Guest_ | May 25, 2000 12:41am | #2

   *I use the blocks when necessary. Do make 'em a little smaller than the back clearance and screw 'em in case the wall does something sneaky. You can easily remove them and make an adjustment. Add a block at any splices. Small block in the corner with panel adhesive so you can float the corner using the cope to push it in a little for that tight fit we all like. Built up crown or one with a base top and bottom are more work but sometime look so much better. Make sure you make any adjustments to the bases so the rest of the job goes smoother.Best of luck.

1. 
   Guest_ | May 25, 2000 01:20am | #3

   *When backing is real limited and/or plaster real weak, it helps when you can use builup mouldings as suggested. Picture a section of base board with a nice ogee profile laying flat on the ceiling and a piece upside down along the top of the wall. That makes your backing,now fill the corner created with a crown that fits inside of the ogee's and still leaves room for a litte reveal. Gives the illusion of a taller/ traditional built-up crown while giving a solid nailing surface. A few well placed nails and some construction adhesive anchore the base securely.Looks great painted and caulked or stain grade.Also helps on installations on wavy ceilings, you can cheat the base a little to the cruves and creates another shadow line. Jeff

2. 
   Steve_L | May 25, 2000 01:39am | #4

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   Thanks for the suggestions. I like the triangle blocks, but Jeff, if I try to put the base section on the ceiling without a nailer just glue will not sometimes hold especially when trying to nail the crown to it later. I suppose I could put up the base first, then triangle blocks. Steve

3. 
   Guest_ | May 25, 2000 01:51am | #5

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   Hey Steve,

   Welcome.

   Pre-blocking for crown is something that needs to be done during the framing punch-out. However, that ain't always the case. Some builders just want to get the drywall up without regard to crown, paneling or wainscotting. It's all too common. Blocking that is screwed or nailed into the double and top plates is a good method. We use a continuious chamfer strip that is about 1/4" shy of the back of the moulding. For small crown it's easy enough to rip out of 2x on the table saw, and it's not as time consuming as putting up individual blocks. That's our method. I'm sure there will be others.

   Good luck,

   Ed. Williams

1. 
   Guest_ | May 25, 2000 11:56am | #7

   *You've got the lath catcher to nail the ceiling base to. If old plaster and lath, you can screw to the lath.

4. 
   Steve_L | May 25, 2000 11:56am | #6

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   I finally got hooked up on-line, and I hope this is the correct section to be asking. Is this where the highlights from the magazine are taken from?

   Here is my question/observation: Every time I read or see on TV a discussion about installing crown molding, none of the "experts" (including J. Beals in the April/May issue) EVER mentions what to do when fastening crown molding to the ceiling when it runs parallel to the joists. There are times when the first ceiling joist may be 14" away. I've tried nailing into the drywall with opposing nails but sometimes the wood just doesn't want to cooperate. Even nailing blocking for the crown can be tricky. Sometimes making an L shape and nailing to the wall just doesn't work either. Does anyone have any hints/tips/suggestions?