Replies

1. 
   Megunticook | Jul 02, 2003 06:18am | #1

   I just did some at my house, but had the luxury of installing blocking between studs.

   Tom Silva over at This Old House apparently uses const. adhesive and blind-nails the boards into the drywall. I suppose if your drywall surface is clean, dry, and without loose paint, etc., a good construction adhesive should hold.

   Another idea is to install some horizontal strapping behond the beadboard.

   Here's a link to Tom Silva's methods over at This Old House--it's kind of a vague step-by-step deal aimed at weekend carpenters, but at least it shows you how one pro likes to do it:

   http://www.thisoldhouse.com/toh/knowhow/handbook/article/0,16417,221855,00.html

1. 
   JimW | Jul 02, 2003 06:23am | #2

   Yeah, someone had told me that they saw Tom do it, and that's when I got concerned.  Some of the things I've seen them do are great for weekend warriors, but I don't want someone that's paying me a decent wage to end up with a half-***ed job.

2. 
   CAGIV | Jul 02, 2003 06:27am | #3

   I've seen it done with the construction adheasive and narrow staples into the drywall seemed to hold fine.

   just an idea that popped into my head here

   what about adding a thin layer of ply, 1/4" on top of the DW and make the cap piece to fit?

   Along those lines I've seen some really thin bead board, about a 1/4" thick, could use that with the 1/4" ply and you're not adding any thickness.

   just ideas flying off the top of my head...

   Never be afraid to try something new. Remember, amateurs built the ark, Professionals built the Titanic.

3. 
   Rugby | Jul 02, 2003 07:34am | #4

   Jim:  I have used construction adhesive with a few narrow crown staples in the tongue for a little extra holding power until the ahesive sets.  I didn't get a call back on this and its was done 4 or 5 years ago.  It worried me though.

   Not sure on the exact make up of the beadboard you're using.  CAG mentioned the the 1/4" stuff which I have installed on 2 occasions.  Made by GP with a pretty rustic knotty pine look.  I ran strips of 1/2" ply horizontally every 12" or 16" (can't remember exactly) and blind nailed with brad nailer.  Didn't use any adhesive on those occasions.  Capped it with chair rail with a simple profile run through on my router table.

   Rugby

   EDIT:  Welcome to Breaktime!

   
   

   ---

   Edited 7/2/2003 12:36:58 AM ET by Rugby

4. 
   TomT226 | Jul 02, 2003 02:23pm | #5

   I've got a lot of the 1/4" BB that I installed in my home with construction adhesive and a few brads directly into the DW. The adhesive grabs pretty quick so you don't need too many brads.

   Check the width of your door jambs to be sure that the casing can cover the increased thickness of the wall.

5. 
   Piffin | Jul 02, 2003 03:26pm | #6

   As long as the underlying sheet rock is a smooth sound surface and a flat plane, the adhesive install is OK. Instinctively, we reason that it won't do right because historicly it is not right, but new adhesives give us a lot of options we didn't have thirty years ago or more.

   .

   Excellence is its own reward!

6. 
   TRIGGER | Jul 02, 2003 04:53pm | #7

   Aclimation

7. 
   migraine | Jul 02, 2003 06:46pm | #8

   Panel adhesive works fine,as most have stated.  Acclimation is also important.  One additional recommendation is to pre stain or paint the toungue.  If the material shrinks, then that tongue will not stand out as much..   you can also apply the paneling to the top of the chair-rail and the bottom of the base, which means that   both are applied after the paneling.   Then you can apply a small scribe molding on top of the the BB edge and chair-rail.   Just another way to skin the cat.

8. 
   sregent | Jul 02, 2003 09:37pm | #9

   I am not a pro but slow working experienced homeowner.  I installed beadboard in my bathroom.  I had the boards made at a local wood mill to match the existing boards in my 100 year old house - however they were installed flush with the plaster with the chair rail covering the transition.  For the bathroom I had them reproduced at 3/8'' in poplar so I could install them floor to desired height, then installed a routed cap rail and BB and trim right on top.  The existing door molding is 7/8" so, although not an exact match to the rest of the house, at leat the entire bathroom looks correct.  They were installed using adhesive and blind nailings into studs.  I did prime and paint all sides including tongue and grooves prior to install.  The boards do move a bit so painting the tongue and grooves was worth it.

   My experience for what its worth.

1. 
   Piffin | Jul 03, 2003 03:55am | #11

   Yes siree gent! It sounds like a professional job to me!.

   Excellence is its own reward!

9. 
   JimW | Jul 03, 2003 03:25am | #10

   Thanks to everyone that replied.  I feel a bit more comfortable now.  Like I stated, my main concern was with quality and longevity.  I strive to do the best work, and am weary of new practices.

10. 
    KGambit | Jul 03, 2003 02:16pm | #12

    I have used construction adhesive over good drywall for the ply-bead, but not solid planking. The only problem with the ply bead is that it looks to good. Or to uniform I should say. Once painted it looks excellent, but anyway, you might try making a few shallow cuts along the wall and just ripping out a few 4" wide strips of drywall, so you can install some 2x4 blocking behind the beadboard. Depending on the height or your wainscot,  one strip at the top and one at the bottom my be all you need. (With a little construction adhesive thrown in for good measure!)

    I don't understand! I cut it twice and it's still too short!