I have a wood stove I would like to install in my family room. What I need is the framing and piping detail of the roof and ceiling penetrations.
Thanks for the help
Chardo
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Your stove manufacturer should provide clearance and venting requirements and your chimney manufacturer should provide clearance and fastening requirements. Don't mess around with this; your life and your home could depend on it. I installed my own, but I studied the issues first, and read the manuals, and was careful with details.
Scott.
Always remember those first immortal words that Adam said to Eve, “You’d better stand back, I don’t know how big this thing’s going to get.”
I second everything that Scott said, word for word, emphatically.
I've lived with wood stoves, heating exclusively with wood in some cases, for many winters. And I have many friends, other tradesmen mostly, who have done the same. My home survived one chimney fire because I was prepared for that possibility.
I learned a lot from that incident, mostly that I should've followed the voices of experience in the first place.
I used to have a wood stove store and have installed more of them than I can count.
So I can help with your questions, but for the present, you are far too non-specific. I'd have to write a whole book to answer as you present this Q.
refer to the installation manual from the manufacturer or tell us what stove you have and what sort of install situation you have, and if the roof framing is truss or sticck framed.
Then ask spoeccific questions as to which part of the instllation you are still unsure about.
you can do it.
We can help
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Heh.
Piffin Depost..LOLSpheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
"If you want something you've never had, do something you've never done"
Is your email working ?You still on midcoast ?
Get your head out of the box.
mostly it is, but I am at the laptop today and haven't looked at it since yesteday PM. Trying to avoid any stress so I am here for funHave had a couple outages from weather lately
Welcome to the Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime. where ... Excellence is its own reward!
Ah.Thanks for the advice. Sounds like what I want to do will work for the short term.=0)
Get your head out of the box.
Sorry for not get back to every one soon life caught up to me for a minute. Lots of work, blown up work truck, another teen living under my roof ....phew
I have heated with wood also but never installed one my self.
The stove is a Jotul Combi-Fire #4 to be installed in singe story stick framed family room.
The hearth and walls will be slate, the walls will have a one inch air gap. Stovepipe will be dubble wall to the ceiling penetration and triple wall through the ceiling and roof.
I have not found a manual for this stove yet. Any help there would be great.
Will the roof and/or ceiling need any addition framing? What about the floor(2x10 on 16").
I'd like to keep the as tight to the corner as possible with out compromising safety which is my first concern.
Thanks for all your help.
Chardo
framing is extra only if the pipe flue location ends up cutting through a ceiling joist and roof rafter. Then you need to double up adjacent and header off like with any other openning framied in ceiling, roof, or floor.clearance for floor protection is typically 18" front of the openning, and 12" to either side. Stove to wall is typically 36" and 18" for the pipe. Double wall pipe can reduce that one to less, depending on jurisdiction. Also some palces recognize the heat shielded wall principle you describe and some don't, but if you do the right, it nor,mally reduces clearance by half to 18" for the stove.That stove model is not current with Jotul, so the manual is not online either. That leads me to assume the stove is not new enough to have any design features that allow for closer than normal installations
Welcome to the Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime. where ... Excellence is its own reward!
The combi fire was made before certification was around. The stove was in 1979 or 1990.
chardo
Two words,
Fire Extinguisher!
Make sure you have one!
We have four & we cook with Gas!
hey piffin,
i installed a 12 or 16 ga (can't remember exactly) sheet of steel plate behind my stove, with a 1" flange to allow for air circulation at the top and bottom. this is a waterford irish stove with a recommended 24" rear clearance to combustible material.
based on some nfpa guidance i found, my understanding is that the steel with an air gap allows me to halve the distance. even with a hot fire, the steel behind is cool to the touch. kosher?
Like I said, "Also some places recognize the heat shielded wall principle you describe and some don't, but if you do the right, it normally reduces clearance by half to 18" for the stove."
Welcome to the Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime. where ... Excellence is its own reward!
thanks for requoting yourself.
Edited 11/7/2007 11:42 pm ET by bakerdog
you're welcome
Welcome to the Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime. where ... Excellence is its own reward!
Jotul Combi-Fire #4...
ya - I use one of those - it's working and I'm 6' from it right now - bought new in 1979 - it's been the main heat source here ever since - a good quality unit - I'll check the archives tomorrow and see if I still have the literature on it - as I recall it was pretty thin (not much paper - just a page or two)
the downsides to it is the need for relatively short sticks of firewood (16" on average) and it dumps ash and occasionally embers out the bottom front of the door (when opening for stoking) - I had a tinsmith make a pan to catch such -
Stovepipe will be dubble wall to the ceiling penetration and triple wall through the ceiling and roof.
the stove has option to take the exhaust out the back or out the top - taking it out the back results in more efficiency/yield - I exhaust thru a 'T' off the manifold (removable bottom cap to facilitate cleaning) and 6" single wall pipe to the ceiling into 6" double walled (insulated) SS chimney - burns clean - I clean periodically but have never had creosote built up -
check with your insurance company - some have specific requirements that may be more stringent that 30yo stove specs -
and stop by NAPA and get a bottle of powered graphite to use as lubricant for the latch -
"there's enough for everyone"
Yeah buddy, that is one sweet stove. I really wanted to get one but they are scarce as re-sells.
I'd think that single wall to the cieling would allow more heat into the heated space ( thats what I have for 15' up) .
My barrels are gonna have to do for the time being.Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
"If you want something you've never had, do something you've never done"
I agree with Piffin. You need to be more specific in order to get advice that will really help. After checking out the owner's manual and applicable codes, you might also want to check out Hearthnet.com. Lots of chimney sweeps, building inspectors, and wood stove retail store owners hang out at the chat room for this site.
ChipTam
Lots of the property insurance companies want to see woodstoves installed by professionals. We have a Woodstove Questionairre that we use. Might want to check with your Agent before you do it yourself.
Greg