Customer ordered an off brand SS chimney style range hood off the internet. Now wants me to install it in a house I’m building. This link shows some basic info on the unit. The thing came with very sparse install instructions. They are attached. Also attached are some pics.
From a 10 minute look at the actual unit yesterday afternoon I see several potential problems:
Electrical: As you see a 120 v cord comes through the top of the unit into the chimney area. Obviously I can’t bury a receptacle or junction box inside the hood chimney. NEC says either has to be accessible – right? I guess this means that I would have to pull the cord down into the main body of the unit and the connection would need to be made there and accessed through the removable bottom filter panels shown in the pic “range hood bottom…”. I guess that would mean I’d have to cut a hole in the back of the hood body for a plastic connector for the 12/2 to run through? Would there then need to be a junction box some how mounted inside the hood body? Or could the connection just be wire nutted together there and be NEC compliant. BTW I have a 12/2 dedicated wire buried in the wall. See attached pic “range hood backing”. Also BTW – I think we are on NEC 2008.
Also, I didn’t see any UL sticker on the unit. If you zoom in on the pic entitled range hood sticker (broadband access required) you can see some other certifications (I guess) but no UL. If I remember correctly my electricians won’t install stuff that doesn’t have UL stickers…
Mechanical: Not sure but I’m pretty sure all hood ducting has to be metal. Pics doesn’t show it but the hood came with a straight section of 6″ round plastic duct – which I assume I can’t use. that’s OK, the HVAC guys can replace that with a metal one and an elbow going into the wall duct. Problem is that as shown in the “hood top…” pic there is a rectangular to 6″ round duct adapter piece. Does that need to be made out of metal? My HVAC guys couldn’t really make one of those…
Mounting of unit. Not a real big deal guy it looks like the main unit is basically set up to hang from 2 screws. Doesn’t seem very stable to me. You can kinda see one of these “hanger” spots toward the top left of the “range hood top..” pic. Seems like the unit could be prone to vibrating on the wall with no bottom attachment.
Thoughts? Your ideas are appreciated.
PS – sorry about the size of some of these pics, etc.
Replies
Matt
I just installed darn near the same thing.
I disclaimed the hell out of it to the client. (never noticed UL or not)
2 screw holes and two drywall anchors are supposed to hold it in place.
I cut an access hole in the drywall above the unit where the flue pipe will cover (less than 6" wide) and glued 2x4 blocks so that I had good purchase for the unit.
(I had same concern that drywall anchors are not really what is supposed to hold up an exhaust fan)
Note: The anchor screws were stainless steel (low grade) and the heads will strip out easily so pre-drill the holes for the anchor screws before running them into the 2x4's.
Mine had the plastic transition but then had steel flex line that I ran up and out.
The upper flue pieces are secured by 2 screws and I tucked the outlet behind there.
while the outlet is not visible it is accessable and my inspector had no problem with it. (I dont think we had a choice either way) By the way, it was a small jb cause there is very little room to tuck the recep in. I had a rear venting setup and put the recep just above the elbow tight to the ceiling.
The flue pieces are a little screwy. If i remember it right, the upper extension fit over the lower extension and I had to shorten up the lower extension by about 2 or 3" so that it would fit and I could get the screws that hold the upper flue extension to run thru to the bracket. (it was a separate bracket that I screwed to the wall at the ceiling that held up the upper extension. Note: The upper bracket needed to be abouot 1/8" from the ceiling so that the upper extension screw holes would line up with the bracket. I also had to remove the junction box and put the bracket on then re-install the junction box so I would suggest, if your unit is the same, to install the bracket first, verify alignment, then put the jb on if the jb is at the ceiling.
Oh, by the way, there were sh**** instructions with mine and it took me 3x longer than it should of to install it. (up down up down up down) I was pissed by the time it was done but I gotta admit, it was cheap and looks pretty cool now
I am guessing fan or something will quit pre-maturely but client was on tight budget and got what they paid for.
I now disclaim client supplied items as T&M for installation
that looks like the one I recently did also...I didn't think it would work, but it does, and the customer is happy...
Thanks much for the words of experience and encouragement. Sounds like it will work and that I need to do the same as you re the electrical outlet, only I'll mount it maybe 3" down from the ceiling. Only problem is that now I get to go to work first thing Monday AM and tear out some of the sheetrock they hung yesterday so I can move the wire in the wall up to the top. That after rushing over there yesterday morning before the sheetrock hangers got to that area to add a metal plate across the framing where I could screw the main assembly into - since no blocking would fit where the in-wall duct had already been installed.
Re >> I now disclaim client supplied items as T&M for installation << This was the 2nd such item she came up with "I said well, OK, (for a price), but this is the last such item". Then I got to listen to a bunch of crying about my price. Really though after this I'm leaning toward NO client supplied materials. How many people take their food to a restaurant to be cooked? Who brings their own repair parts when they take their car to the shop? I'm not self employed - I work for a company - so it all pays the same to me and there is no way for me to recoup the extra time and trouble I'm being put through for this cheap hood. The hood that came with the house would have required no more evolvement from me other than to order it with the rest of the appliances. Alternately, I had offered a good quality GE SS chimney hood for $1200 (that included ~300 markup) but client said the $1200 was too much. Live and learn.
Re. not installing client supplied fixtures.
I inform clients now re. internet ordered stuff that most of the time it takes over twice as long to install as the standard fixtures and I tell them what I budget for time for installation.
They know my hourly rate for work and I tell them that if it is a typical internet item, figure on paying additional X or more for it. Also that it might not work and might need to be returned or additional parts ordered. I remind them that me chasing parts down is hourly charged as well, and share past stories.
If they want to move forward, I am ok with it and just figure it out and if there is additional work, I get paid for it. (I would rather not say "No" to a client, I like saying yes with conditions. Clients would rather hear yes also.
Do a disclaimer for HO supplied #### and charge extra for the install. no bones, no exceptions. The foreign #### ALWAYS costs extra to install and to service, and just the bellyachin is worth some extra too.Had an HO buy their own elec fixtures from a cheapo source. My sparky pointed out how poorly made they were and that they would take extra time to install over what he would have supplied.They still wanted the junk. So he installed it. Less thana year later a couple fixtures did not work. He did the service call free, listening to her beech about how it must have been his fault all the time with gritted teeth.
Then he called me and told me the next fixtures to go out up there would be replaced at at cost plus, but no more service for free.He has not been back since and they have half a dozen fixtures that do not make light. Told them to get their own electrician. ( the other problem was that they have a dog that misbehaves)
Welcome to the Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime. where ... Excellence is its own reward!
I noticed that was translated - prize off the lampshade -.
But the instruction did not give a name or company.
First of all it the NEC does not require UL approval. In fact the UL is not even mentioned.
It talks about equipment approved by recognized labatories. And it general leaves it up the inspector as to what equipment is acceptable.
About the receptacle access I don't think that it is mentioned. But place connections are made has to be accessible. And that is generaly though of as with ordinary hand tools. Screwdrivers, wrenches, but not hammers.
In some special cases it might take alot of disasebly to get to the connections.
.
A-holes. Hey every group has to have one. And I have been elected to be the one. I should make that my tagline.
Thank Bill for clarification. Sounds like it will work OK.