Replies

1. 
   Guest_ | Mar 29, 2000 07:38pm | #1

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   Here's my suggestion. I would make up some metal "U" shaped bracket where the inside dimension of the "U" would fit snugly around your newel post. Then using masonry anchor bolts, attach the brackets to the stairs masonry. Take your posts and set them into the brackets and drill some attaching holes through them so that you could attach the posts to the brackets securly with screws. The final step would be to wrap the posts with trim at the base that would cover up the "U" brackets and maybe even add some shoe, or cove moulding on top of that. You may have to do a little fitting to the base wrap so that it will fit properly when mitered. I've done this procedure for a customer and it looked quite nice when finished.

1. 
   Guest_ | Mar 29, 2000 10:09pm | #2

   *Along the same lines as MDM- LJ Smith stair parts makes a newel fastening system that should work for you. Heavy gauge metal bracket screws to newel and to floor. (In this case brick) Use tapcon concrete/masonry screws into brick, trim as suggested by MDM. If you have concrete under brick it would be ideal to run screws into it...

1. 
   Guest_ | Mar 29, 2000 11:31pm | #3

   *Smith,Simpson makes a great 4X4 post base that secures to masonry or concrete or whatever. You can then wrap the post base with wood for a nice finished plinth block look for your newel post. You can buy Simpson hardware at Home Depot or any lumber yard.Ed. Williams

1. 
   Guest_ | Mar 30, 2000 12:36am | #4

   *Smith,

   It would have been nice if you could have done some pre-planning, maybe next time. It would have been a simple case just to install a 4x4 post and than brick around it to give you a rock solid connect.

   I don't think that any type of fastener will work for you in this situation. A small force at the top of a 40" post will translate into a very large force at the bottom were you will have these types of connection. Newel posts must withstand a lot of rotational force, If you fasten it using that method odds are you will be replacing the post inside of a month. Then again, that's only if you plan on using it.

   In your situation I would bore a 3" hole through the brick step at the center of were you want your post to be. There should be a "footing" under the step, drill about 8" to 10" into it. Fill the entire hole with a fast setting concrete, than insert either a 2-1/4" or 2-1/2" hollow galvanized fence pipe. The fact that the pipe is hollow will allow the concrete to flow into and up the sides of the pipe making the connection very strong.

   You can rip down a 2x6 to about 4" and using two you can sandwich the pipe making a ground to attach any more wood that you might need. You can dress this out to about a nice 6x6 post.

   Good luck.

   View Image © 1999-2000"The first step towards vice is to shroud innocent actions in mystery, and whoever likes to conceal something sooner or later has reason to conceal it." Aristotle

1. 
   Guest_ | Mar 30, 2000 12:42am | #5

   *Durn good advice there, Joe.To take your original thought a bit further, what about just setting some 4x posts in the ground, (in concrete), plumb to the outside of the steps ? These can be dressed up, and/or hidden as well.View Image

2. 
   Guest_ | Mar 30, 2000 12:59am | #6

   *Luka,

   The only problem I might see with your suggestion is that it would bring the rail center very close to the edge of the steps. This would also cause the connection to be on the side of the post as opposed to straight into it or over it. All and all that's not a bad solution either.

   View Image © 1999-2000"The first step towards vice is to shroud innocent actions in mystery, and whoever likes to conceal something sooner or later has reason to conceal it." Aristotle

3. 
   Guest_ | Mar 30, 2000 01:10am | #7

   *True, true.If the post is set correctly, it would almost not even have to be connected to the steps. (If the height doesn't get to be too much.) So the connection to the steps would not be so critical.Also... a piece of all-thread could run across the underside of the steps, (If the area is open.), to connect posts on opposite sides. Eliminating the need to try to connect to the steps themselves. If the posts are well set, and the all-thread is used, it would be almost impossible to move the rail sideways in normal use. (Rail tip-out.)I have seen plenty of deck/stair railings, etc, covered beautifully and/or worked directly into the looks of the house.

4. 
   Guest_ | Apr 03, 2000 03:34am | #9

   *Lot's of good ideas, I maybe I got one more.Instead of covering or hiding the u bracket, use nice forged fittings and leave the wood above the brick. If you have the wood in contact with the brick, you will be encouraging rot everytime it rains. Water has a small head, and instead of creating a place for it not to be and trying to keep it out, create a place it can never stay.

2. 
   Smith_Omonuwa | Apr 03, 2000 03:34am | #8

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   I have a 6ft by 7ft front porch over which I have just built a flat roof supported on two 10ft decorative wooden columns. There is an 8ft brick stairway from my drive way to the porch and another 21ft opposite stairway curving from the porch to the side of the basement door. Is there a way to firmly secure wooden posts on the brick so I would not have to use wrought iron as advised by our hardware store?