Replies

1. 
   experienced | Jul 10, 2006 02:41am | #1

   This stuff is snake oil. If you were to paint your dark roof white, it would help with uninsulated roof/attic heat gain from the sun ad outdoors. The best is to replace the roof with a light/white coloured recovering and insulate at the same time with an appropriate material.

1. 
   HGHodges | Jul 10, 2006 04:42am | #2

   I was afraid people were going to say that. That's what I thought I'd probably have to do with the roof.

   But what about the exterior brick walls? Is there a shallow stucco system that would add some R-value without my having to extend trim? The house is tight and well built with an excellent hot-water heating system. But it's uncomfortable in the winter and more expensive to heat than it should be.

   Harriet

1. 
   experienced | Jul 11, 2006 02:17pm | #3

   Are your exterior walls structural brick or "brick veneer" with wood frame walls?

1. 
   HGHodges | Jul 11, 2006 09:18pm | #4

   Brick veneer with wood framing. About  a 1" space in there, which I think must be left to deal with condensation.

    

   Thanks for considering my problem. Can I do anything for you in an indexing way?

1. 
   calvin | Jul 11, 2006 10:13pm | #5

   Harriet, is there insulation in the walls now?

   Could you not bore holes from the inside, through the gyp bd or plaster and blow celulose into the stud cavities?

   What about increasing your attic insulation?A great place for Information, Comraderie, and a sucker punch.

   Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.

   Quittin' Time

    

2. 
   experienced | Jul 12, 2006 05:54pm | #6

   Where is the 1" air space.....behind the plaster or between the brick and framed wall wood sheathing?

    

   As calvin mentioned, with actual wood framed walls/brick veneer and using small cellulose blowing equipment, you can drill 1" holes (at least 2 holes per vertical cavity; sometimes 1 or 2 more with corner bracing) from the interior. These are quite easy to patch and paint afterwards.

2. 
   moorco | Jul 14, 2006 11:16pm | #7

   Check out http://www.rima.net.  they have test info on coatings.  I'm conducting a temperature reduction test of simple aluminum paint this weekend on the backside of my attic roof.  My understanding from a paint chemist is that the ceramic balls aren't worth the extra cost so we'll try simple aluminum paint.  Though I'm worried about creating a vapor barrier.  I'm also evaluating radiant barrers and using a special surface temperature thermometer.

1. 
   HGHodges | Jul 15, 2006 01:14am | #8

   Very interesting.  I would be most interested in your results. The reason I was interested in the ceramic paints is that they claim to go on over old asphalt shingles and consolidate them--as well as provide some R-value and act as radiant barrier. Thanks for the words and the website.