I have a house to paint. Interior. Two smokers. I’ve been advised of a variety of methods, though, I am not new to painting and do apply a primer coat prior to the finish coat, as well as, doing prep work ( vacuuming-degreasing-etc.).
However, I’ve now been told that I need to wash all surfaces with TSP (Trisodium Phosphate) prior to applying the primer coat to completely remove the nicotine. If not the nicotine will permeate…bleed thru both primer and finish coat, regardless of the quality of paint or application thereof.
Is this true?
I have cleaned the blinds w/ the TSP and it does bring them back to “white”, however, it is a harsh cleaning agent. I picture trying to clean the ceilings with this and my vision is a nightmare.
Anyone ever use this product or is it best left to primers…the smoke residue is there…painting the house white eventually becomes off-white or off-off white due to the two smokers…..who aren’t quiting. Though, one has been trying for over 6 yrs.
Thanks. This is quite troubling.
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To get a professional to see your note, you are better off posting at breaktime, which is the fine homebuilding forum.
As a simple homeowner, while I highly recommend washing the surface you are going to paint, I think the TSP wash is more to get off the grime that interferes with adhesion. If you want to block nicotine stains from bleeding through, you should try a stain-blocking primer such as BIN.
http://www.zinsser.com/product_detail.asp?ProductID=10
Thank you.
Excuse me, I forgot to ask: How do I go about moving my inquiry to a different (?) room/forum/board? Do you know? Thank you.
Unfortunately, you'll have to repost. Go to your original, copy the text, go to breaktime and post a new inquiry.
Good luck!
Clean what you can, give a quick sanding to any glossy surfaces and prime everything with Kilz
I agree wqith those who told you to use BIN or Kilz stain blocking primer. They are used to seal in smoke (when doing fire restoration) and oily stains, so I think they would work. I like the "modern" formulas that are water-based, but if they don't seem to be working, the old alcohol based pigmented shellac will work. Shellac is well known for sealing in stains and odors and the Kilz or BIN pigmented shellac has no wax to interfere with your top coat(s) of paint.
I do generally clean with TSP (or now there is a substitute that is phoshate free) if the surfaces look dirty or greasy. I just like the idea of getting the grunge off rather than painting over it, but like others said, the stain blockers should work even without cleaning first.
Make sure you get the one that has shellac in the mix, that is what will seal the stains from bleeding thru - it is also used to cover water stains on the walls and ceiling1 - measure the board twice, 2 - cut it once, 3 - measure the space where it is supposed to go 4 - get a new board and go back to step 1
Had the same problem in my house when we moved in four years ago. I like the Kilz product, but I learned the hard way that the latex version, Kilz II, will not mask nicotine. It does come right through the primer and finish coat. I re-primed with the oil-based version and repainted, and haven't had a problem since.
After an agony of several years quitting, and spending a fortune on nicotine gum, patches, and the like, I almost volunteered to come and lick it off the ceiling...But nicotine is a volitile alkaloid, probably all that wasn't pleasantly absorbed into the blood of the primary user has long evaporated. The stains are probably the tars and crud that make such a pleasing pastime so undesirable. Probably treating the same as a grease fire residue will work.
HarryD