Replies

1. 
   cussnu2 | Jan 07, 2011 01:05pm | #1

   Why not just mount a power strip and be done with it?  A good many of them have an overload sensor in them and you can get them in black, white or tan so they don't have to be any more obvious than an outlet.

1. 
   calvin | Jan 07, 2011 01:31pm | #2

   I agree with cuss

   Cut out your deskpanel at the outlet so you can access it to plug in and remove.  Run the plug strip cord how you will, but make it avaialble for disconnecting.  Perhaps keep the plug strip below the desktop, bore a nice hole and drop cords down to that plugstrip.  There's desk "grommets' to pretty up the hole you bore.

   or

   open up the wall and add another box where you want it.  If load allows, run off the box you are not going to be using.  Do keep access to that existing outlet.

2. 
   ar7499b | Jan 07, 2011 02:03pm | #3

   thank you for the reponses. In my attempt to keep my post short, I forgot to mention that I intend to use 1/2 the 2 gang box to install a switch for the lights. This would be wired off the second side of the blocked outlet...... that is why I don't want to just use an extension......

1. 
   calvin | Jan 07, 2011 03:04pm | #4

   If

   It's in the same stud space as the old outlet-cut in a two gang remodel box and fish down to that old outlet.

   Use a box extension if your desk unit is out from the wall the thickness of the panel.  Mount your outlet and switch with long screws.  Lay that beautiful cover plate on there and be done with it.

2. 
   DanH | Jan 07, 2011 09:00pm | #7

   In my attempt to keep my post short, I forgot to mention that I intend to use 1/2 the 2 gang box to install a switch for the lights. This would be wired off the second side of the blocked outlet...... that is why I don't want to just use an extension......

   If by this you mean that you would be switching room lights from this extended box, then extension cords are out -- you need to do it up proper, with an access panel that lets you get an an extension box over the existing from which conduit (as required locally) is run to your new location.

2. 
   Scott | Jan 07, 2011 04:05pm | #5

   Don't know if it's code compliant or not, but I've done it lots, typically with an 1110 box. If you're worried about overloading the extension cord, don't use it. Go get yourself a nice piece of 14/3 or 12/3 Cabtire cable (SOW). Put a proper heavy duty grounded plug on it.

   And when running the cable into your receptacle box, rather than squishing the cable with an EMT or flex connector, get a proper "Strain Relief" connector intended for Cabtire. Big Box stores sell all of this stuff.

3. 
   DanH | Jan 07, 2011 08:56pm | #6

   I think I agree with the others, mostly:

   -- Make your own extension cord with #14 or better wire, or use a heavy-duty plug strip.  (Don't forgo the 3-prong outlet.)

   -- Have some sort of removable access panel that will allow access to the plug connection without totally disassembling the desk.

4. 
   ar7499b | Jan 07, 2011 09:45pm | #8

   Again, thank you for your thoughts.

   Calvin,  I really don't want to put in a new outlet. I am comfortable with this type of work, but my house was built in the 1940's. The walls are plaster over 2 layers of wall board, and I don't want to guess at the challenges I would find trying to snake flexible conduit through the cavity. The house was rewired with new service and all new switches and plugs, however, and the boxes are all filled to their limits (all plugs are double wired  so one side is switched). I think It would be a challenge and possible danger to add more wires inside the box, and it is really impossible to swap or increase the box capacity because it is so old and solid.

   Dan. I would be switching a transformer for some low voltage accent lights, and one side of the new outlet, which would be for a desk light.

   I might make a heavy duty cord. This was my original plan, and I have some 12/3 wire I bought for the job. The problem is that low profile plugs seem to be as expensive and harder to fnd than extension cords with a nice three prong low profile plug. I assume that the wire in an extension cord would be stranded, not solid, and I don't know if that matters.

   Thanks again.

   ar

1. 
   Scott | Jan 07, 2011 10:26pm | #9

   >>>I assume that the wire in

   >>>I assume that the wire in an extension cord would be stranded, not solid, and I don't know if that matters.

   It most certainly does. You should never use solid wire for extension cord purposes. The constant flexing will cause the wire to eventually break at the terminals.

   ....Not to mention the fact that solid wire makes for a nasty, ugly, and uncooperative extension cord!

   .

   .

   Uh Oh.... I think I hear Ol' Art gittin' ready to tell a bunch of stories about how he used NMD for extension cords; just like he buries SOWJ for service runs. Yikes!!!   ;-)

2. 
   DanH | Jan 07, 2011 10:32pm | #10

   I have seen low-profile "repair" plugs at, I think, the local HD, but if you can't find that you could use a heavy-duty plugstrip with a low-profile plug and cut the cord off of that.  You want the wire to be stranded, and #12 (or whatever) stranded will carry the same current as the same # solid.

   Do include the access panel in any event

5. 
   MarkH | Jan 08, 2011 06:58am | #11

   McMaster Carr has hospital grade clear 90 deg plugs for 15 to 19 bucks.  Those are sweet plugs, I have used them at work but   I'm too cheap to buy them at home.  I bought some Harbor freight plugs once, those are clearly lacking the quality you'd expect, but they don't appear too dangerous.

6. 
   ar7499b | Jan 08, 2011 10:10pm | #12

   Well,

   Thank you all again. This forum is always extremely helpful.

   I have decided to buy a replacement appliance cord. 12/3 with the right angle plug I need. I will use this to wire the new oultet.  I will cut an access panel at the original wall outlet as well.

   Thanks again,

   ar7499