i’m changing a basement exterior door in a 1930 bungalow, The old jam and door had no threshold and was termite damaged the cause for the termite damage was repaired and in stead of using CCA stock for the jamb our choice was to go with a cellular vinyl jamb stock, the old jamb stock was set in place with concrete mortar, this worked this worked fine for the old stock because the old jam was 6 inches wide and it covered the holes in the block wall, The jamb is 4 3/4″ wide and not wide enough to cover, and if I pack it out with 3/4 jamb stock the ro will be to small for a 2′-8″ door
Ideas?
Replies
Sounds like you need some "Carpenter in a Can".
"Logic, like whiskey, loses it's beneficial effect when taken in too large quantities." Lord Dunsany
I can't see all the details from here, but I am thinking of something like mounting the vinyl jamb with some PL Premium ahesive along with whatever lags or screws they recommend or supply. Then make an extension jamb - possibly on each side to help stabilize it in place and glue it in with the same PL. This adhesive is a moisture cure some a modest amt of moisture in the masonry will help, not hurt, as with some products.
Clamp, screw. or wedge with shims to hold in place and that PL will practically weld things together.
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Problem 1- jamb's too narrow.... Solution, buy PVC stock, glue & biscuit extension jambs on...no sweat
Problem 2- attaching jamb...here's the sweaty part...I personally would be leary of the PVC jamb in this case because they are flexible, and you have no blocking (wood chunks) laid up in the mortar to nail into...I've replaced a number of these basement jambs, always found it easiest to just go get the best quality solid wood stock I could & replicate the old jamb...then install it making sure that all sides are well sealed/primed and that drainage is as good as can be in the area outside the door....
I've found that a solid 5/4 jamb with the threshold tied in at the bottom as a spreader can be foamed in place, no nails required, and the foam really helps keep the moisture from getting at the jamb...
"course, you've already got the PVC....if you use a coulpe of spreaders, (or even have the door hung in it and shims between the door & jamb to hold the reveal) and use the low-expansion foam, you might get away with it...I would still be concerned that you have no solid blocking behind the hinges, & I wouldn't be happy hanging a heavy door to PVC...
Good luck, let us know how it turns out, I'm getting ready to use a PVC jamb in a wettish area above grade in a framed opening & would be curious to know how yours turned out (especially re mortising in the hinge gains)
so it sounds like you using the low expanding foam sealant and mechanical fasteners to affix the jamb to the block wall I'll give it a try
I have also used these jambs be for but in a regular wooden framed rough opening, and I have found in order to keep them from warping you need to shim more it also helps to used screws and drill pilot holes with a counter sink for the screw head, also don't try to chisel out your hinge gains make a template of the hinge and use your router to cut them you get much better results
but after it is installed you will be surprised how air tight the seal between jamb and door is
best of all it paints like wood
"so it sounds like you using the low expanding foam sealant and mechanical fasteners to affix the jamb to the block wall I'll give it a try"more or less....if there are any voids in the masonry wall you can try glueing in some pressure treated blocks w/construction adhesive, so you have something to screw into...
as I said before you may be able to use the door itself as a spacer & just foam the jamb in...
thanks for the info re routing the hinge gains...that's my normal practice....
I'd probably just fill in the holes in the wall with patching mortar, then (after the mortar has set at least overnight) drill about 5 holes per side for lead shield anchors or some such, running stainless flathead bolts into the anchors, positioned so that the closed door would hide them.