I’ve installed new kitchen cabinets and want to add the crown moulding at the top of the cabinets. The problem is that the cabinet face-frame extends past the cabinet side by 1/16″, creating a gap between the crown moulding and the cabinet side. I’d like to shim out this gap but am not sure what to use along the whole length of the cabinet side. Does anyone have any ideas? Thanks!
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did you build or buy the cabinets?
I bought mine just did the work over the summer had the same problem.
When I bought my cabinets I bought extra fillers strips 1" x 3" x 30" I just ripped some down to fill in that small gap.
I don't have a pic but I'll post one tommorrow.
Mitremike said it. Simply notch the part of the frame that sticks out where the crown wants to sit. It's a common problem and this solution makes it look good.
here is the pic
I have been down this road many times and the best solution I have is based on the 1/16 inch reveal.
Touch the crown to the cabinet side in plane with your final position and scratch the FF with your knife. Drop the crown and chisel out the reveal so the crown lies flat on the side turns the corner and continues along the faces.
This only works with slight reliefs (1/16 to a 1/8) because if you relief cut the FF on a larger reveal 3/16 and beyond the bottom detail of the crown disappears and looks off.
In this instance I do as described before and rip the edge off a filler and fill the relief--makes a nice stepped affect but doesn't go over as well with 1/16--looks like a sliver instead of a step.
All this considered do what you think looks best--assumeing these are your cabinets.
Mike
" I reject your reality and substitute my own"
Adam Savage---Mythbusters
Oh yeah--Welcome aboard--I missed your Bio when I first posted.
Fill in at least where your at so regional questions can be answered with out -------
Where ya ats all the time.
Nice to have you-----
Mike
" I reject your reality and substitute my own"
Adam Savage---Mythbusters
I install a lot of kitchens. In most cases we use "end skins" which are glued to the side of the exposed ends of the cabinets. They are nothing more than 1/4" + - plywood panels that come fairly flush with the overhanging face frame. I'm doing a kitchen this week, and the refrigerator has end panels on both sides. Rather than spend the big bucks for 24" x 84" end skins, I'll just cut a filler approximately 1/4" thick by 1 1/2" and glue that to the top of the cabinet side. I don't care for notching out the face frame flush with the side, the corner doesn't look right.
Often, there isn't much meat to attach the crowns to, over the doors. I generally will attach a backer piece to the tops of the cabinets. This gives a solid surface to attach the crown to and holds the crown at a consistent angle, which makes fitting the corners much easier. It's often best to place the backer before the cabinets go up. I also have to attach some nailers down the cabinet sides to mount the backer to. It's a little extra work but you get a much more solid mounting for the crown. I don't need to use nails with this method, just some adhesive. I got tired of nails splitting the crown or face frame behind, or slipping slightly and not holding securely.
Below is a picture with an end skin applied and a double layer backer, due to the size of the crown and the lack of space over the doors. This allowed the crown to sit down over the face frame by just 1/4".
Beat it to fit / Paint it to match
Greetings and welcome aboard.
I'll vote for notch the faceframe for the crown as well. The only time to "fill in" from the FF back along the finished end is when the gap is more than the bottom of the crown wide (much gritted teeth gnashing), or if there's a fancy return (mitred, radiused, etc.) on the crown.
Thank you one and all for all the ideas - I really appreciate it. Not sure what I'll do at this point - still mulling it over.
Thanks again!
sorry i'm late to the discussion but i thought i would include another perspective. the cabinets that i install have a face frame overhang of 1/4" so this might not help with your particular problem. i have (i don't anymore because this method is more time consuming and most people don't know the difference) cut the crown to wrap the 1/4" overhang, shimmed the gap as i nail it, and finish it off with a piece of scribe molding (also 1/4" thick) to hide the gap. a simple 45 bevel cut where this piece runs into the vertical piece of scribe leaves a very small gap which is easily filled with puddy. it adds a little "built up" look and looks better than notching the face frame. however, i notch the face frame when installing now and have only seen that in my area. good luck.
jud