Replies

1. 
   Derr82 | Jun 07, 2006 03:08am | #1

   I'm pretty sure it's one receptacle for every 12" inches of counter, example is if you have one stand alone 9, 12, or so on inch base cabinet it needs a receptacle, or one every 4' of counter run.  Also, here is an example of what you can do with receptacles where bar top meets counter.

   
1. 
   hacknhope | Jun 07, 2006 03:32am | #2

   Very nice counter.  You know what would be nice?  Replace the receptacles and plates with something in a colour less glaring than white. 

1. 
   Derr82 | Jun 07, 2006 05:25am | #6

   Reason they are, or were, white was for final inspect.  Matching recepts and covers were special order and not in yet. 

1. 
   experienced | Jun 07, 2006 05:36am | #7

   In Canada, code is "no point on counter shall be more than 3 feet from a receptacle"  Any short piece of counter standing by itself 12" or longer must have a receptacle.

   New Code: Any receptacle within 3' of sink must be GFCI protected. Also have allowance for 20 amp receptacles also instead of split 15 amp receptacles.

2. 
   DoRight | Jun 07, 2006 09:23pm | #17

   I otherwords, if you have a 12" wide cabinet between teh frig and the stove you are required to have an outlet over that cabinet.  Not one outlet every 12" along the countertop.

2. 
   brownbagg | Jun 07, 2006 04:02am | #3

   code is every two feet on counter, that is to be able to reach a plug with a 12 inch cord.( if appliance is bewteen plug, a 12 inch cord each way will reach a plug)
1. 
   MSA1 | Jun 07, 2006 04:53am | #4

   Are you sure?

   I'm pretty sure that its one for every four feet of countertop. The thinking behind that is that most cords are 2 feet long (on countertop appliances) and can be plugged in any where on the counter.

   At least thats the way it was when I finished my last house three mos. ago.

1. 
   brownbagg | Jun 07, 2006 05:06am | #5

   yes, you right, had go look in the kitcern.

3. 
   BillHartmann | Jun 07, 2006 05:36am | #8

   There are a couple of 1ft rules, but not on spacing.

   There are the details.

   http://www.codecheck.com/pg27_28electrical.html#rough

   Note island only require one receptacle per countertop segment. So you have have a 8ft long island with one receptacle, but you break up with a cooktop and then you would need two.

   If you have a raised bar section behind it you can put them in the backsplash. Or you can use tombstome receptacles.

   But most common is to put them on the side or even in the front if you lower a drawner (or a dummy drawer area).

   
   

   ---

   Edited 6/6/2006 10:39 pm by BillHartmann

1. 
   wrudiger | Jun 07, 2006 05:52am | #9

   OK, that explains why mine passed.  15' island; recepticle at each end & cooktop in the middle (all on one level).  Inspector got out the tape and then blessed it - phew! (I was prepared to go with a dummy drawer front if I really had to, glad I didn't).

2. 
   experienced | Jun 07, 2006 06:49am | #10

   What's it cost for a double pole GFCI for split receptacles?

1. 
   BillHartmann | Jun 07, 2006 07:24am | #13

   "What's it cost for a double pole GFCI"I am guessing about $50-60."split receptacles?"But the US does not require split receptacles.And BTW, you can do split receptacles with a single pole GFCI breakers or dead front GFCI's. To do that you need break the tab on the neutrals and run 2-2 cable (or two cables).But the whole kitchen wiring is much different than Canada.2 20 amp circuits for small appliances. That is the counter top, but can also be used for receptacles in the pantry and dining room. Also the refigerator can be on it.How the two circuits are used is completely up to the installer (IE, the receptacles don't need to be split or alternated).And 15 amp receptacles (as long as there is more than one and a duplex receptacle is more than one) can be used on 20 amp circuits. Which makes sense as you will be hard pressed to find an appliacne with a 20 amp plug.And all counter top receptacles need GFCI protection.

   Edited 6/7/2006 7:47 am by BillHartmann

1. 
   experienced | Jun 07, 2006 04:20pm | #15

   Surprised that split recepts not required in US. ALso, I was surprised that the 20 amp circuits were brought in here. Have never seen a small appliance that drew 16 amps (80% of 20 amps). But it does allow us to use single pole breakers for circuits within 3' of sinks.

   What's the rationale for all counter recepts being on GFCI? I've seen some kitchens where recepts are 8-12' from water and on the other side of the kitchen from the sink. Why have to protect them?

1. 
   BillHartmann | Jun 07, 2006 10:35pm | #18

   My guess that the reason for the 20 amp circuits is that there are lots of 750 to 1200 watt appliances.It is not unusual to be using more than one at a time."What's the rationale for all counter recepts being on GFCI? "Basically if you look are where GFCI's are required there are two basic dangers. One is dropping a plugged in appliance into water. But the other danger is leakage from defective equipment and probably more so bad cords and the operator being "grounded". That is why GFCI's are required in the US in garages, unfinished basements, and outdoors.In a kitchen you have several sources of grounding other than through the plumbing; mainly stove and refigerators.

2. 
   ponytl | Jun 08, 2006 01:36am | #19

   Thanks all for the info & links... all info proved to be correct... sparky was "dang maybe thats why i didn't get the last few kitchen jobs i bid"

   I'm guess'n me questioning this saved me around 6k... 

   sometimes things just don't sound/seem right...  this was one of those times

   thanks all that lent their input

   p

3. 
   BillHartmann | Jun 08, 2006 04:03am | #20

   "I'm guess'n me questioning this saved me around 6k..."Do I get a commsions?And also on the next couple of kitchen jobs he bids?Doggy is out of milkbones and going after my porkchop.

4. 
   ccal | Jun 08, 2006 08:36am | #21

   I just had a 2000 square foot house wired for under 6k labor and materials. What kind of wire you using in the kitchen?

3. 
   ponytl | Jun 07, 2006 07:03am | #11

   many thanks...   man he had em marked every 24"... I never hate to argue but I like to be right when i do...

   one more question... I'm use'n stack washer/dryer, hook up box has to be to the side so that you can turn the water off  if need be without pull'n the unit out of it's closet...

   now... can the power outlet for this unit be in the same wall as the washer box? is there wording in the code that prevents this?

    

    

   again many thanks

   p

1. 
   BillHartmann | Jun 07, 2006 07:16am | #12

   It can be on any wall.

1. 
   ponytl | Jun 07, 2006 03:39pm | #14

   my sparky is a great guy... flip flops & shorts... leftover hippy biker from the early 60's, on a good day he's 120lbs wet, one man band/truck master elect.  generally knows his stuff takes no short cuts ect... actually knows the "why & cause" vs  "because thats the way we always done it"  so i like to be right when i question the "why"  but he's always cool enough to explain and even change stuff when i have a better plan....

   many thanks for your help... the washer/dryer info will save 4ft of wire 6 holes drilled and keep an outlet out of a firewall... x 18   thats close to $500 T & M min

   P 

1. 
   BryanSayer | Jun 07, 2006 05:15pm | #16

   I recently installed a new hookup for a washer dryer, and one thing I think makes sense but isn't in the code is that I put the electrical hookups higher than the plumbing. Even though water under pressure can spray in all directions, at least a drip won't run into the electrical boxes.