With the code enforcement permit being signed off for the basement my near
term priorities have changed.
We need to get the kitchen up to code in the next 4 months.
For the kitchen we’ve decided to install our big (6″ wider than the existing) Wolf stove now.
This means we have to at least change the base cabinet to the right of the stove,
the hood, the cabinet above the hood and the wall cabinet immediately to the right of
the stove.
Because we are extra crazy we’re thinking that we should plan out our ‘dream kitchen’
now so that we don’t have to end up buying cabinets twice. Of course, now this
means we’re under a huge time pressure and we’re going to attempt to design our
‘forever’ kitchen…..no problem….
Here’s what the kitchen looks like and the surrounding area.
From above you can see the family room, the entryway and unfortunately I cut out
most of the dinning room that is where the entrance to the kitchen is. We don’t want
to push into the family room as we love the idea of a separate sound proof space to
watch movies in. We don’t want to push into the dinning room as its all original and
well, we actually use it. That leaves the entryway we think…
Here’s what the existing kitchen looks like now.
For the record I F’ing hate the existing kitchen. It’s waaaaaay to dang small and poorly
laid out. We have to put our baking stuff, most of our small appliances and all our
Costco overflow in the dining room.
Here’s what we’re calling the biggest space possible idea.
It’s a bit funky but hey this is just a first rough draft. Love turning the old stairway
down into a decent sized pantry. Also, the smaller closet at the entrance is possible
because we don’t need this area as a chase for the HVAC exhaust.
In this initial idea the small closet becomes a pull out pantry to store our brooms, vacuum cleaner and possibly the trash and recycling.
Not sure about the wacky acute angle in the lower left. How can I get a corner cabinet into that space?
Also, we lose that doorway into the dinning room if we do this.
To get to the kitchen you will have to go through the door on the left and then through
the dinning room, maybe an extra ten steps compared to how we do it now.
This idea adds over 4′ of counter space and upper and lower cabinets.
That plus the pantry and the broom pantry seems like it should be plenty of space for
everything.
Using this idea the kitchen grows from being 130sqft to 165sqft (not including the pantry’s).
Here’s the bare kitchen idea.
Just in case someone wants to take a stab at designing a kitchen from scratch.
Here is what the new long wall with the acute angle could look like.
Here is the stove wall.
Here is looking at the pantry corner from the opposite corner.
A straight on view of the pantry, counter area.
What do y’all think?
We’re basically only changing the lower left corner and wall of the kitchen.
Would love to hear any suggestions people have.
Initially I think that maybe I am trying to reuse design features from the existing kitchen
too much.
But blank slating it right now feels impossible.
Also, I’m not sure about the stairway to breakfast bar clearance.
In this design there is 42″ between the two.
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Mads
Replies
The range is too close to the left side-the door may well hit the DW. No work room to the right.
The refrig, if it is that big will not allow the door to open all the way, unless you have one that's zero clearance on the sides.........
and then you need to make sure that the drawers will pull out w/o the door opening past 90. Just recently found an electrolux that is made just that way-the inside door shelves are not as deep low down where the drawers pull out.
Something to check for sure.
Hello
We've moved on from the crazy angle idea to this probably more sensible idea.
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As you can see with this probably more sensible version we lose 2'-4" along that wall.
There is also 2'-8" clearance between the cab and the pantry door.
As to your initial concerns.
We've lived here for a year and I do all the cooking and cleaning and I never realized that the stove door would hit the DW door when they were both open. I went downstairs and yep you're right. But I'm thinking that its not really an issue..not ideal for sure.
Our fridge does have the zero clearance hinges.
Everything in the picture is to the exact scale.
What we're trying to figure out now is, if pushing the West wall (N is up in all my diagrams) out the 3' and bringing the pantry into the kitchen is worth the hassle. The East and South walls are loadbearing and can not be changed easily.
Thanks for your reply.
I'd move either the fridge or the range to the other side.
Think about reversing the DW and the sink so that
you have counterspace on both sides of the sink.
I think that the acute angle in the cabinets would be a real
pain in reality. Reaching the upper cabinets all the way against the wall will be difficult. Have you considered keeping a right angle in the cabinets and then tapering the depth of the cabinets as you move away from the corner? Not necessarily a great idea, just trying to help you brainstorm.
It may be the best you can do, but it sucks. The fridge won't open, the stove is too close to the fridge, the acute corner is going to be a PITA.
At the very least put a fillet in the countertop and lower cab for that corner.
Hi Dan
Thanks for the comment.
Please see my reply to Calvin above with our newest working idea...which is hopefully less lame.
I'd say the acute angle is not the way to go - simply make sure there is a landing at the stairs and keep the wall at 90 degrees. If the stairs are used a great deal simply make the landing larger.
As for the layout of the appiances and the use of an island I would highly recommend mocking up the space for how you actually cook. Some cooks like some areas close together, while others like open spaces where multiple people can be in the same space at the same time coming and going.
I know bakers who want an oven close to the prep area and don't want to walk across the room for anything - maybe even a small under counter fridge just for baking related things. I've also built in a lower counter area for kneeding dough. If you're a rabid baker then make the space fit what you do.
Same goes for kitchens for familys or friends that like to get together to cook multiple work stations are a different cat from a kitchen made for one or two. A second prep sink then makes sense - maybe a second small fridge - double ovens....maybe an island cooktop accessible from both sides.
When I mock up a kitchen for clients I'll use plywood for countertops and have cardboard cutouts the actual size of the your appliances to move around to try different layouts - clients walk through the prep steps for the foods they like to cook - it brings out shortcomings in counter space, distances between appliances, etc. The more work clients put into this step the better the results are so I help walk them through it as much as possible. Often a kitchen looks bigger on paper then with full size countertops.
I couldn't design your kitchen without knowing how you cook!
Cheers!
Thanks Don
For the reply,
Please see my response to Calvin above with the new working layout.
I'm an ex-Pro-Chef so cooking here is mostly me whipping around the kitchen and everybody else staying the H-E- double hockey sticks outta my way (if they know whats good for them). Which is one reason why I want to keep the breakfast bar idea. Guests can sit there and watch and talk to me without getting underfoot.
I sometimes have people helping me chop-prep and simple things...We don't have room for an island or prep sink. I'm hoping that the 3' increase along the South wall will be enough for a helper to work at.
I am not a rabid baker but we do bake from time to time.
Need Hood Advice
Its been over ten years since I thought about vent hoods.
We own a 36" Wolf stove with 4 burners and a bbq grill.
That grill can really smoke sometimes.
Any reccomendations to a vent that can handle this extreme situation and will preferable not sound like an F-14 getting ready for take off and that won't cost like an F-14?
Yes
Put the motor somewhere else.
And don't have any (many) turns in the pipe.
Otherwise, the fan you need to vent like you want, will be loud, period. Or, get the big fan in the store bought hood that looks really cool, and use it on low speed and smell the goodness of which you cook.
And, don't forget the makeup air if you are using one of the over 300 cfm's.
Which One?
Any specific advice to which product.
I can run the vent line probably require 8" straight up into the dropped ceiling and then one 90 deg elbow and straight out the side wall of the house.
Here's another idea from HomeWright.
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The new hallway created has a sloped ceiling. It is only 6' on the one edge...
Could that be enough?
What do y'all think about this?
The Stove
Model I have is R364C which Wolf says needs a minimum 900cfm.
I will probably have to step up to a 1100cfm because of length and elbows in the ducting.
Any thoughts on how best to do this while being reasonably quiet and not cost an absolute fortune?
thanks,
Well
The stove is on an outside wall?
But you mention having to step up in cfm's because of the length of the pipe and one 90?
Look for an exterior fan (if you don't mind the blob on the outside of the bldg) and duct back in and down to the hood.
or, put the fan in a "soundproof" box in that drop ceiling-duct in/out.
That'll help a small bit.
If you can't get the fan away from the hood, then you are doomed........................
The quicker the 90 appears in the design, the more noise that you will hear.
My experience, most that go with the jet plane hood, dim it down to a nice sounding level-and live with it.
900 minimum? What are you doing-4 woks at a time?
Flam-bay-ing a turkey?
But whada I know? not too damn much.
Nope
The kitchen is in the center of the house!
The 900cfm is a manf spec. I can tell you that when you are grilling up some marinated asparagas that you get a lot of smoke and you need the flow.
It looks like the only way I can get above 900CFM in a 36" wide hood is with the remote blower.
The wall it will be vented on is the 'wet wall' of the house and is already as fugly as it gets to the exterior wall mounted blower is probably the best option for us.
I can bring the venting straight up into the dropped ceiling and then make the turn there.
thanks
I put a remote fantec fan in a kitchen that drew something like 1600 cfm - with a variable speed gizmo on the hood so it didn't always need to draw that much. It sounded like a hurricane, not do to the fan, but to the high velocity of the air running down the 8" (or was it 10"?) ducting.
Based on what happened with that install I'd say you want as large of a duct as you can stand - ideally I'd go with a 12" duct. You don't need this much area, but it slows down the air flow and the slower the airflow the more quiet it will be. I'd go as far as suggesting having an hvac outfit build a large rectangular duct when they do other havac stuff. Nothing quiets air like large volume slow flow.
Next get the in-duct silencer if you have round duct - it's a rubber gizmo that stops sound from not only the motor, but also the air flow itself from reverberating back down the duct to the hood.
The infinately variable speed fans are tops since you can dial in just what you need.
That's in an ideal world.
For a budget less than $2000 for only the ducting and a motor you may want to choose a two prong approach - whatever normal hood you are thinking of, and a secondary exhaust vent in the ceiling near the stove. I love fantec remote fans for generic exhaust fans since you don't even hear then other than the airflow through the grill if the motor is at least a dozen feet from the grill. Put on a timer you can just set the ceiling vent and forget it.
A secondary consideration if you have a large flow exhaust fan of any kind is to allow makeup air to enter the house from somewhere or you'll have backdraft problems with hotwater heaters and furnaces that aren't drawing in their own air from outside. Most normal houses are probably not tight enough to cause problems, but if you have a high efficency home it's worth considering.
Since historic house remodels - kitchens in particular - are what I love the most, I'll have to put a plug in for the value of having every square inch accouted for including area within stud bays. Think about 9' of wall that's 4" thick - that's 3 square feet by 8' -- 24 cubic feet of room that could be used with custom cabinets. Custom cabinets with drawer that actually use all the space available - not stopping 2" short of the back of the cabinet! Also think about room above and below, not just to the sides that can be used.
To decide if something odd or unique is worth doing I come up with a cost per square or cubic foot and use that as a guide. For instance if the value of kitchen space is $300/square foot, then digging into an non-structural wall to gain 24 cubic feet of storage would be worth it if the cost of doing so was less than $900 (300 x 3). Now, $900 get eaten up rather quickly if entirely new cabinets are being built, but if we're already building custom cabinets and we're only having to modify the dimensions then $900 goes a long way!
I'm not shy about tearing out an entire non-structural wall and having the backside of floor to ceiling cabinets take it's place....you can make the cabinet backs fancy, or tape and finish it as drywall. Smooth wall finishes are most common in historic houses and nothing is easier to skim than cabinet grade plywood!
I'd go so far as to suggest that going up and down is also an option. Upper cabinets physically have to have doors that stop at ceiling height, but they can extend up into the joist cavities or attic if there is an extra tall gizmo you use once a year and need a nice storage place for (a 2' tall easter bunny cookie jar). Making space for it up high, may free up a great deal of space down low for things used more often. Rather than burn up room in a closet for a broom - add a built in cabinet between studs and use that room for something more useful! Vacuum? That 2 square feet of footprint the vacuum uses is worth $600 so maybe it's time for a whole house vac or store the thing somewhere else.
Pull out pantry space is much more useful per square foot than a walk in with shelves. How much? A 4'x4' closet is 16 square feet or $4800 - that buys eight pull outs roughly a foot by 4' tall x 3' deep! ...and you can recess them a foot for a larger feeling room and still have plenty of space!
A person pet pieve is the wasted space under a sink - I always build a large pull out shelf at the bottom of the space and put the p trap flat on the rear of the cabinet so upper drawers can be built into the space not occupied by the disposal. I'd guess over half the space is wasted if not 3/4.
Clean out your junk drawers and have them used for something cooking related and build toe kick drawers for all your pens, tape measures, light bulbs, and spare fuses for your car.
Consider nearby kitchen storage for seasonal items to free up space for items used more often. I've recessed cabinets in a dining room wall that took up zero square footage in the more valuable dining/kitchen space and reduced a little used closet by half....a good trade off.
Wow!!!
Can you come live with us and build our kitchen?
You've got some great ideas!
That $300/ sq ft number where did that come from? Or, how could I figure out what that number would be for me? That's a great way of looking at it. Looking at it that way makes it a no brainer to push the South wall out the 3' to gain the counter space and cabinets and bring the pantry closet into the kitchen.
I'm looking at Broan hoods with remote exterior wall mounted fans...one thing I'm not liking is that I'm not finding clearly labeled Sone ratings for all these hoods? They are right on the box for bathroom fans...
thanks for the reply and please check the bottom of the thread for an update and more pics-diagrams.
Current Design Fav
Okay after much internal discussion here's where we are at.
The new hallway idea under the stars is out.
Right now we like the 'most reasonable square foot' idea.
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For reference here's the existing kitchen
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Several people have been confused about whats around the existing kitchen so here's a slightly bigger version of the floor plan around the existing kitchen.
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We're still up for different ideas for folks who want to try their hand at moving walls.
Here's the blank slate version of our current fav wall layout.
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We would love it if someone wants to take a stab at completely redoing the kitchen layout.
I think we are having trouble seeing past the existing to what could be.
The only design constraint is that those are our actual appliances and they have to fit and we want to keep a breakfast bar kinda thing roughly where it still is.
Help Us Design Our Pantry
The big pantry is kinda weirdly shaped and we are hitting a mental roadblock on how to best utilize the space.
Pantry
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I can not for the life of me figure out how to make a room in Chief Arch with a sloped ceiling...so you get the above for now. The slope of the ceiling in the pantry is not ideal.
We envision the use of this as a place to store all of our bulky items, all of our small kitchen appliances and other infrequently used kitchen stuff.
Anybody have any ideas?
Now, More Pretty Pictures.
Here's what the breakfast bar looks like from from the entry looking back towards the kitchen.
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Here's a shot standing in the dining room and looking into the kitchen.
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You can see the pull out utility pantry on the left.
This shot was taking standing at the stove and looking back at the breakfast bar.
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This view is what you would see sitting at the breakfast bar.
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Any ideas/help would be greatly appreciated.
I throw out $300/sqft for kitchen space as an example - but this is how I encourage clients to think about it. The entire space under the roof has some value per square foot independant of what the space is used for - essentially a constant number that includes the lot value - say $50/sqft. In addition to that value per square foot each space within a house contributes differently to the overall house value. Unfinished storage space is essentially nothing more than the $50 in the first part so we wouldn't add anything to that. Bedrooms are valuable things to have, but there's not much in a bedroom in terms of expensive gizmos or finishes so the added value per square foot is relatively low.
A bathroom in the 64 sqft range might have $10k of labor and materials in it - $150/sqft (pluse the $50/sqft whole house value). That same bathroom adds more value to the house if it's bigger - to a point, but it's also taking away valueable space from other areas. Say you stretch the bath to 100 sqft - I'd say the value is at least $100/sqft (plus the $50/sqft whole house value), IF it's not taking away space from something more valuable - say a kitchen, or making a part of the house seem odd from loosing the space.
Now for a kitchen in an old house it's almost a given that you need more space - modern taste is just different than when the house was built and bigger is better to a point. Remodeling cost for old kitchens is often $100k for 200 sqft of space, so I'd say it's worth at least $550/sqft ($500/sqft plus the $50/sqft whole house value), but it's also a key part of the house - a premium space that much of the activity revolves around - so it's worth slightly more than just the sum of it's parts - say at least another $50/sqft.
At $550/sqft it would be easy to justify building additions for added space, but it's probably better to tone down that number when adding space since as you go bigger the value per sqft will go down - diminishing returns. Still, if you need a bigger kitchen, it's relatively easy to justify building additions, overtaking other seldom used spaces. If you want exactly what you have, just more of it then your added value per square foot is quite high.
Keep in mind my numbers are based on what clients are willing to pay for upgrading space - this is the value they are putting on a new kitchen and these values are just a tool to decide where to take space (or build new space), and this is not to be confused with resale value. If you are thinking of selling the house down the road, then you need to think in terms of what the market wants - essentially the comparible houses in your neighborhood - the most bang for your buck won't include many custom kitchen niceties - it won't include your favorite colors, or that quirky tile that you've always loved even though everyone else thinks it's nasty. Spending $3k on a range hood probably won't pay for itself.
Looking at your pantry, I'd think hard about replacing the entry door to the kitchen (next to the pantry) with a pocket door and building in cabinets that access from essentially what is behind the current door now in addition to some cabinets that would be accessed from where the pantry door is now. With the pocket door open the doorway essentially brings that part of the understairs storage into the kitchen - heavy duty 3' full extension slides and simple pull out drawers hold a lot of stuff like appliances, while more typical pull out pantry shelving on the same 3' full extension slides will make the most out of your understair storage.
Looking at your pantry, I'd think hard about replacing the entry door to the kitchen (next to the pantry) with a pocket door and building in cabinets that access from essentially what is behind the current door now in addition to some cabinets that would be accessed from where the pantry door is now. With the pocket door open the doorway essentially brings that part of the understairs storage into the kitchen - heavy duty 3' full extension slides and simple pull out drawers hold a lot of stuff like appliances, while more typical pull out pantry shelving on the same 3' full extension slides will make the most out of your understair storage.
If the door to the bathroom is changed to a pocket door you can replace that wall to the right of the fridge with a pullout pantry cabinet.
Looking again at that rendering that showed the accute angle - I don't care for the angle, but I do like what you're doing with that wall - how about a slightly bowed wall? It reduces the angle, adds interest to the wall and opening and maximizes the kitchen space while allowing good access to the stairs still.
Last summer I built a floor to ceiling curved set of cabinets that took the place of a wall that I realy liked after the fact. On side of the "wall" was smooth while the other had normal cabinet stuff - looking at it you'd never know the "wall" was actually all plywood and we were able to be built everything 4" deeper than if the cabinets were simply butted up to a stud wall. That's a significant amount of extra storage along a 10' section - even with the large opening in your plan.
Lets see if I can get this to work here...
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That's the total existing floor plan for this floor.
I know its a wonky non-modern floor plan but it works for us quite nicely. We have the fancy public spaces and the more casual private spaces on the same floor.
The rooms marked nook, dinning, entry, and living are the original fancy Victorian rooms of the house which have details that we do not want to mess up. The layout is funky but it works for us. We don't use the front door at all. We come in and out the back door. The family and study rooms are really our TV and kids playroom. This was originally its own studio apartment so its pretty well soundproofed. Every weekday we have three toddlers here plus the baby sitter and this arrangement has worked out well for us.
The pass through to the entryway is really a breakfast bar that we use all the time. We like it there as without it the we feel that the kitchen would be a dark cave.
What pass through
Is that something you showed b/4?
And that picture is way too big-why not edit down to a size that we can see it all w/o scrolling?
Nope
I've never shown the full floor plan for this floor.
I'll try to edit it down give me couple secs...
Yes, I realize the full v. partial plan
But what I asked was, where is the pass through / breakfast counter in this drawing?
I'm Stuck on finding a good range hood
Dang now I dont' know if this should be a seperate post or tacked on to this one....
I need range hood help.
According to the manf I need a 27" deep range hood thats rated at 900cfm.
I can only use a 36" wide hood because of space issues.
I would like it to be as quiet as possible also.
The research I've done so far is pointing me to a remote mounted fan-the type thats mounted externally to the house and has the motor in the wall cap.
Because of the length and one elbow I will need a fan rated at more than 900cfm, 1100cfm seems to be correct.
I've been doing web searches for a while now but I'm not really finding any good hard info to help me with this. Most of the manf sites point you to a brick and mortar authorized dealer.
Or, the range hoods you can buy online seem to be off brand (at least to me) and I have no idea if they are any good.
Can anybody help me out?
thanks,
Mads
Mad
Did you hunt up the Fantech site?
Did you not find anything on Vent-a-hood?
27" deep and how low do they want you to put that hood?
How tall are you, the wife and anyone who might walk by?
And what are you doing for make up air?
If you keep having problems, go to a restaurant used supply and look there.
Hi Calvin
I admit my brain feels a little bit swiss cheesed at the moment with this subject...I feel like I've been reading all this non-info online and I just need somebody who's actually done something similar to actually tell me how it went.
We had a Vent-a-hood with this stove at the last place and it just couldnt' do the job....and they don't even seem to have a 27" deep model.
I also can't seem to find the actual sone ratings for the different hoods at their respective speeds.
I know that you are worried about the 27" deep hood smacking me in the head or people walking by getting clocked by it. I've seen one similar installation and the hood does not protrude any farther out than the door handle and the person who has it says its never been a problem.
The max height above the stove is 36"...I'm 6' tall....I plan to make sure that the cooking surface is at least 37" off the floor...I'll have a whole inch of clearance but at least it wont clock me in the temple.
In the new HVAC plan there is an 8" fresh air duct controlled by an atmosperhic damper that is plumbed into the return air line.
I did look at the fantech site but they don't sell a wall mounted external fan thats powerful enough? They also don't sell hoods just inserts to create your n. Maybe I can use an inline fan but I really like the idea of putting the motor outside the house so it can be as quiet as possible.
Create your own.
Well, if you can't/don't find something in a hood, then you can create your own, no? They do provide the liner, no?
And don't forget-if the fan's outside, then you have that noise to deal with there-
or
open window in the summer-noise, not so much, but still a concern-the stink you seem to want to eliminate from the kitchen.
I've fought this battle with several customers-we need a big powerful fan..................
can't find one.................
Well, here's something that passes the "recommended" cfm's .......................
and they never turn it on high.
Just perhaps you're different.
Best of luck.
I've already said that we've had this stove installed in a previous house and that with that hood on high it wasn't powerful enough for how we use the stove.
I'm hoping to not need the high setting all the time but I will definately use it often.
Yes I could make a hood.....but I don't want to. I'm liking the idea of buying one package and have everything pre-designed from the factory to work well together.
You know what's funny? Wolf tech support says they don't have any decibel ratings for their hoods!?!?!?!?!
That is such utter and total B.S. Of course they've tested the hoods six ways from Sunday they just aren't proud of the results.
$3k + for a fancy hood set up and they can't even supply decibel or sone ratings?
How about this idea?
I've had a lot of imaginary friends helping with the redesign of the kitchen....ahem
Here's a slightly modified floor plan for the kitchen.
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What's different here is that we've moved the fridge to a new wall and recessed it into what was originally going to be some sort of broom-trash storage closet.
We also flipped the DW and the sink because EVERYBODY says you can't have a sink at the end of a run of cabinets....
I like this idea because it frees up space around the stove...but now I'm not sure where the broom closet stuff is supposed to go?
Where can we put the mop, broom, trash and recycling bins?
We Still Need Help With The Closets-Pantries.
Here's a different shot of both closets and the appliances we need to fit.
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How can we best utilize the space in the pantry closet for bulk storage and small kitchen appliance storage...and now possibly broom closet stuff also?
Pretty Pictures.
Here's what this current design looks like if you are standing at the stove and looking back at the rest of the kitchen.
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Sorry about the odd color walls...but the granite and cabinet colors are spot on for what we have now....yes our kitchen has a silly amount of granite...
Here's how it looks standing at the corner by the fridge and looking back.
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Yep, lots of granite....
Here's how it looks from the dining room entryway looking into the kitchen.
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And here is how it looks if you are standing in the entryway and looking through the breakfast bar opening and into the kitchen.
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So, whats everybody think?
I think.........
that you finally opened your mind to this remodel and instead of saying why not-you've actually started to "think" about the project.
Now, only the sky's the limit.
best of luck.
But..........
Take a look at this positioning-
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The right frig door-unless you can get the door "stop" (if there is one) to keep it from opening past 90 deg, it'll bang into the counter (because it's recessed more than usual.
Great idea to get it out of the way, but may be problematic.
ya
The folks at garden web pointed that out also.
I'm thinking that for the base cab there I will have to go with a 12" deep model.
The fridge is recessed so that its even with the 12" upper cabs to the side.
I was initally unsure of this because we really use our big deep over the fridge cabinet a lot...
But then I realized that I could still put in a deep cabinet but it too would be recessed.
Still not sure what to do with trash, recycleing and broom closet stuff with this new idea.....
thanks for the reply.
Deep frig cab?
Is that wall load bearing? If so, you'll have a header in there-or you'll be burying all or most of it in the ceiling.
If not bearing, you might have at least the plates to contend with (hollow out to top of the cab in that spot).
If you put in a 1100cfm fan, be sure to put it on a speed control. Most of the time you'll only need 50.
yep
They seem to all come with infinite speed controls and I'd imagine that unless I'm grilling marinated portabella mushrooms or asparagas I probably won't need the full speed...
Man, the one time when we had this stove installed at the previous house and I tried to grill corn on the cob in its husks...we had little tiny black ash specs all over the place...
some more info
do you guys have the entire first floor plan? and are you certain which are the structural walls?
earlier
in the thread there is a giant picture of the entire floorplan that I can not seem to shrink for some reason.
The walls I have indicated are indeed load bearing as verified by my SE.