Replies

1. 
   MojoMan | May 04, 2003 03:28am | #1

   Can the countertop be securely fastened to the wall? Since this peninsula is only 4' long, it seems this 24" 'brace' could provide plenty of lateral stability.

   Al Mollitor, Sharon MA

2. 
   PaulReuter | May 04, 2003 03:37am | #2

   Frame w/ 2x4 as normal, securely fasten to floor & wall, be sure stub wall is where you want it, & skin with plywood, using glue & nails.  This will give you a very rigid panel.  Plywood would only need to be 1/4" & could then be drywalled, or use thicker ply & finish to your taste.

   Paul

1. 
   jimatgreatwhite | May 04, 2003 06:17am | #3

   could you put a small return on the unsupported end of the  wall. This would give you an L shaped wall, twelve inches long would probably stiffen you pretty good. Sheath with ply or osb as mentioned above and it'a even stiffer.

   another way. Use a newell post bracket to secure a 4x4 at the end of your stub wall and connect your wall to it. You may need to add some blocking in the subfloor to get a solid attachment. This could be done from above by cutting a hole in the floor and attaching bloking to joist system and patching the floor.

   Jim

3. 
   SamT | May 04, 2003 03:48pm | #4

   Combine Paul and Als' and it will be ripped from the fasteners before it moves. The operative words are securely fastened.

   SamT

4. 
   RW | May 04, 2003 05:46pm | #5

   I've built several store counters for a local rental outfit just like what you're describing. Gotta agree witht the posts here. Frame it to the wall, short returns not only add some stability to the wall, it does the same thing for the counter. Ply also helps in your scenario if you put a barstool in front of it - more opportunity for shoes to be kicking the wall. Since the countertops they've used have been run of the mill laminate, I use 3/4 birch (cheap end of cabinet grade stuff) to put on top, then the counter just slips on, and attaches from underneath. Longest so far was a 14' run with a 4' bend at 45. Very sturdy.

   "The child is grown / The dream is gone / And I have become / Comfortably numb "      lyrics by Roger Waters

1. 
   RW | May 04, 2003 05:53pm | #6

   example

5. 
   rebildit | May 04, 2003 06:36pm | #7

   Neil,

   I did something similar on a concrete floor recently.  We preassembled a 2x4 plate with a 2x8 on edge screwed through the bottom side of the plate placed right on one edge of the 2x4 plate.  Attached the plate assembly to the floor and notched all the 2x4 studs over the 2x8 on edge.  Screwed all the framing together, one side of the wall had plywood as well.    Took all of the wobble out of the top of the knee wall.  In fact used it as a post end for a gate.

   Bill

1. 
   neilcontractor | May 04, 2003 08:34pm | #8

   Thank you all for your responds.  I will probably use a bit of all your suggestions.  I may be able to sink a post and attatch it to the joist below.  Just found out that the tile floor is coming up, so that lets me have some leadway.  The counter top will be made with a seperate bottom plate(plywood) that will be attached to the top plate and to brackets and then screwed up to the counter top.  Again thanks to you all.

1. 
   FrankB89 | May 05, 2003 04:12am | #9

   Since you can get into the floor joist system....

   I hate wiggly walls and when I can (usually new construction), fasten a steel anchor in the joist bay to which I attach a length of 1/2" all-thread from the anchor up to the top plate. Secure it with a nut and washer counterbored into the plate so the top of the rod is flush. 

2. 
   Edgar76b | May 06, 2003 03:12am | #10

   I agree with everybody, and would only add it would be good luck if your joists were perpendicular. I like the plywood idea . Infact i wonder if you could get away with 2 x 3's if your going to use 3/4" ply on both sides. If you need the room. making it a stress skin by screwing into the sole plate as wee as the studs of course.

   You must Layout the wall, and do an exploratory under your sole plate before you set it in. So you can lag it in real solid in from above, between the studs......

   Do you need to put a recepticle on that wall ?

   Also you will would need a couple of nailers in the wall. unless you can hit the stud. even then it would make it stronger.  I guess you are speaking of a remodel job not new construction. That means doing some sheetrock patching, of course.