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Lacquer has great water resistance (it’s still used occasionally on cars), but it does have to have a decent film thickness. A very thin layer might let in enough moisture to start delaminating. However, I believe that the water is being wicked up from the (probably) unsealed bottom edge. The glue used to hold the veneer is likely to be waterproof and the only escape is for the moisture to blister through. If that is the case, refinishing won’t fix it for long.
But the varnish will act as its own sealer, there is no need for a separate product.
Replies
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Lacquer has great water resistance (it's still used occasionally on cars), but it does have to have a decent film thickness. A very thin layer might let in enough moisture to start delaminating. However, I believe that the water is being wicked up from the (probably) unsealed bottom edge. The glue used to hold the veneer is likely to be waterproof and the only escape is for the moisture to blister through. If that is the case, refinishing won't fix it for long.
But the varnish will act as its own sealer, there is no need for a separate product.
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I have floor molding around my HARTCO Pattern Plus “hardwood” floors. I believe they are finished with lacquer. The molding is OAKOVER a product that has a thin oak veneer glued to a pine based. This house is not old, but the molding finish seems to be flaking off in areas where the floor is being cleaned with a moist mop.
I believe, I need to change the finish to a more durable finish like varnish. After sanding the lacquer, can I apply varnish to the molding? Do I need to apply sanding sealer and then varnish?
Is Lacquer that susceptible to water? Or is it a thin finish?