Replies

1. 
   JTC1 | Apr 25, 2009 12:42am | #1

   1) Assuming your previous experience is with a propane torch -- get a MAPP gas torch - makes your life easier. Prpoane will work - MAPP is a little hotter and seems to be easier.

   2) Make sure the flux you have is for lead-free.

   Sweat away!

   Jim

   Never underestimate the value of a sharp pencil or good light.
2. 
   rdesigns | Apr 25, 2009 12:58am | #2

   The new solder alloys like Silvabrite are really nice to work with, especially compared to the old 95/5 solders that were about the only lead-free choice in the days when lead was outlawed. Silvabrite has a melting range of over 100 degrees.

   The old 50/50 and 60/40 lead solders were easy to work with because they have a melting range of 50 degrees or more. Within that range, they become mushy, or pasty, and can fill gaps much easier than solders like 95/5 that have a melting point rather than a melting range. 95/5 has only about a 5 degree range, which is essentially a melting point.

3. 
   mike4244 | Apr 25, 2009 03:05am | #3

   Essentially the same except for the flux. Make sure the flux is for lead free. This flux is white, similar to borax flux but is a different flux altogether. Melting time is very slightly longer than the leaded solder.

   mike

1. 
   Ray | Apr 25, 2009 04:13am | #4

   Thanks everybody.  Doesn't look like there's any special "gotcha's" with the lead-free, I'll give it a stab.  I'm plumbing a new tub & shower, the plumbing will be darned difficult to get to after the remodel.  I wanted to do it "right" the first time & not have to worry about it in the future.

1. 
   Dinosaur | Apr 25, 2009 08:00am | #5

   I second the MAPP torch suggestion--but I have never heard of a special flux for lead free solder. The stuff I use is Good Crest; it's a self-cleaning soldering flux that comes as a transparent, dark amber-yellow paste.

   Dinosaur

   How now, Mighty Sauron, that thou art not broughtlow by this? For thine evil pales before that whichfoolish men call Justice....

1. 
   rez | Apr 26, 2009 06:10pm | #9

   I was thinking of starting a thread asking for recommendations on soldering pastes.

   Gotta be better products than the white frothy stuff.

   Always had a leaning towards the greasy stuff.

   be Made in Italy 

1. 
   Dinosaur | Apr 27, 2009 05:59am | #13

   I've never even seen the 'white frothy stuff'; can't quite imagine it, either. All the fluxes I've ever seen have been the greasy stuff.

   I goofed on the name of the stuff I use now in my first post, it's not Gold Crest or whatever I wrote; it's CREST GOOD. Made by the Crest Good Mfg Co. of Syosset, NY. I never see it in big boxes or DIY hardware stores; I can only get it from my plumbing sub. It's a zinc chloride-based flux; self-cleaning, not water-soluable, and very, very easy to work with.

   As a bonus, if you wanna clean up yer pipe work to impress the client, just smear some on a rag and wipe down the pipes with it. Shines 'em up better than Brasso....

   Dinosaur

   How now, Mighty Sauron, that thou art not broughtlow by this? For thine evil pales before that whichfoolish men call Justice....

2. 
   rez | Apr 27, 2009 06:14am | #14

   Thanks, I'll be looking into that.

    What type of solder do you prefer? 

3. 
   Dinosaur | Apr 27, 2009 06:51am | #15

   Kester 96% tin / 4% silver.

   Dinosaur

   How now, Mighty Sauron, that thou art not broughtlow by this? For thine evil pales before that whichfoolish men call Justice....

4. 
   plumbbill | Apr 27, 2009 07:37am | #16

   CrestGood¯ is one of the best fluxes I have ever used, & I think I have used almost every kind.

    

5. 
   Dinosaur | Apr 27, 2009 07:54am | #17

   I've been using it exclusively for the last 15 years, and got to the point where I kinda forgot how much better it is than anything else and took it for granted. One day I ran out while on a job 40 km from here and ran to the nearest hardware store where, naturally, they didn't have Crest Good. So I bought what they had just to get through the day.

   Ten minutes later I'm cursing and swearing and watching my solder bead up and fall off the goddamn pipes and spatter all over the place....

   Dinosaur

   How now, Mighty Sauron, that thou art not broughtlow by this? For thine evil pales before that whichfoolish men call Justice....

4. 
   junkhound | Apr 25, 2009 08:42am | #6

   Why even consider using copper in the firs place????

1. 
   Dinosaur | Apr 26, 2009 08:26am | #7

   Because.

   Dinosaur

   How now, Mighty Sauron, that thou art not broughtlow by this? For thine evil pales before that whichfoolish men call Justice....

2. 
   Hackinatit | Apr 26, 2009 01:21pm | #8

   Maybe because copper is antimicrobial http://www.copper.org/antimicrobial/properties/homepage.html and that some older homes' electrical is grounded through the copper water lines.

   Or he, like me, likes the look of copper. ;)A La Carte Government funding... the real democracy.

5. 
   plumbbill | Apr 26, 2009 08:16pm | #10

   60/40 & 50/50 can fill gaps better than the new solders.

   Biggest difference is todays water soluble fluxes, they don't like to get too hot & they hate wet environments.

   I don't know who said that one melts at 50 degrees & the other at 100 but I would disregard that.

   The old 60/40 & 50/50 stay a solid until about 370 degrees & silverbrite 100 stays a solid until 440 degrees.

   Remember to the let the pipe & fitting melt the solder not the torch.

    

1. 
   KenHill3 | Apr 26, 2009 08:49pm | #11

   "I don't know who said that one melts at 50 degrees & the other at 100 but I would disregard that."I think the poster was talking about the RANGE of melting temperature.

1. 
   plumbbill | Apr 26, 2009 11:42pm | #12

   That makes sense, I had to go back & re-read his post.